Orange Wine, Boxed Wine, and More

Orange wine is really a white wine in which the grape skins have been left in contact with the liquid. 5PH/Shutterstock

As the year comes to a close, a few wine topics should be addressed. Each could be examined in more detail, but here are my thoughts in brief.

‘Orange Wine’

This relatively recent development is really a white wine in which the grape skins have been left in contact with the liquid. So instead of being bright yellow or even white, the wine takes on an orange hue.

Orange wine originated in France’s Jura wine region. There, producers make wines called “vin jaune,” yellow wine. Intentional oxidation creates a light, sherried aroma.

A number of California wineries have explored this concept in the past few years, mostly with varying degrees of what I call nonsuccess. But orange wines are improving. Such wines are different from what we are used to.

The best example of orange wine that I have tasted is from Bonny Doon winery in the Santa Cruz area. Winemaker Randall Grahm pioneered a novel approach to these wines. The best of them sell for reasonable prices and are fascinating because they’re almost red but still defined as white wine.

Boxed Wines

Mostly these are good values, especially when you can buy three liters of sound wine for about $6 per 750 milliliters. In general, the quality of wines in some of the more upscale boxes is higher than anything you can reliably find in large glass bottles.

Many companies now offer virtually foolproof bag-in-box packaging systems that carry better quality wine than ever.

Quality depends on which company made the wine. To determine the quality, ideally you should purchase four or five of them of the same varietal and do a blind tasting.

Since no one does this, let’s look at the varietals.

The best value thus far is riesling, because there is plenty of good riesling fruit and the wine doesn’t have to be aged in barrels.

I’m usually not a fan of chardonnay in these containers, but some red wines can be relatively good value. In general, the more you spend for a boxed wine, the better the quality.

Alternatives to Traditional Wines

Barbera from the Sierra foothills can be downright fantastic, especially when paired with tomato-sauced pastas. Dozens of producers have so successfully made barbera that there is now a festival dedicated to the grape that sells out every year!

Gruner veltliner, though relatively new in this country, has an affinity for cool climates. The best versions are from Reustle Prayer Rock in Umpqua Valley. But at least a dozen more are being produced that are excellent.

Petite sirah is not a new variety, but it has become something of a cult wine, partially as a result of the decline in zinfandel sales. Sonoma County’s Miro and Foppiano and a dozen producers in Mendocino County all are making phenomenal petite sirah wines.

‘Holiday Wines’

Of course, sparkling wine is always festive, but I also look to offer guests dry and off-dry rosé wines. By the end of the year, many of these “summer wines” will have evolved into something more substantial, and some are like light reds.

I also adore Beaujolais from France because of their lower tannins.

For a delightful medium-weight red, try grenache wines, notably those with lower alcohol levels (less than 14 percent). At their best, decant them for an hour before pouring.

Alternative whites that are broadly appealing include Chenin Blanc, tropical-fruity albariño, riesling, gewurztraminer, and Italian whites such as vermentino, grillo, Arneis, and Verdicchio.

Wine of the Week

2023 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Orange, Central Coast ($16): This fresh and appealing orange wine has an aroma of apricot and tangerine blossoms. The delicate citrusy taste is balanced by good fruit and has more substance to work nicely with seafood dishes. It can often be found discounted.