When my wife, Fyllis, and I arrived in Lee County, Florida weeks after it was devastated by Hurricane Ian, we expected the worst, and our first impression supported that fear. Beachfront lots previously occupied by houses were empty, victims of wind and water. Some homes that escaped being obliterated had gaping holes in their roofs that were covered by blue tarpaulins. Piles of debris littered sidewalks.
To our surprise, concern about how we would spend the next few weeks soon dissipated. Stretches of beach were being reopened to sun-worshippers. A few blocks from the Gulf of Mexico shoreline, there were few indications of the big blow that had wreaked havoc along the coast.
We discovered that the appeals of that area of Southwest Florida provide a variety of diversions that can fill delightful days and enjoyable evenings. Compared with the glitz and glitter of Miami and the go-go action at Walt Disney World, we found Lee County to be a lesser-known but no less inviting jewel of the Sunshine State.
Wetlands
The list begins with the setting itself, a tableau of pine flatwoods, cypress swamps, and bands of mangroves. Bays, rivers, and streams have long played an important role in the local way of life. We spotted a sign reading “Welcome to the boating lifestyle” and placards urging residents to “adopt a canal.”The Calusa Native Americans were drawn to this estuarine environment more than 6,000 years ago, when they built shell mound complexes, seasonal campsites, and canal systems. Contact with Spanish explorers and their diseases eventually decimated the indigenous population. Among places where evidence of this chapter of history remain are Mound Key in Estero Bay, the former Calusa capital; the Calusa Heritage Trail, which is lined by informative interpretive signs; and Cabbage Key, where an inn and restaurant sit atop a large shell hill.
The Calusa focus upon fishing continues today in a state that is ranked among the best in the country for that activity. The year-round warm climate, diverse ecosystems, and variety of aquatic settings offer options ranging from deep-sea and reef fishing to backcountry and freshwater angling.
Town Life
Visitors interested in checking out the closest things to cities face an equally welcome choice. The county seat of Fort Myers includes the brick-lined main street, a long residential thoroughfare lined by towering royal palm trees and historic traditional Florida “cracker” houses. Paintings, humorous metal sculptures, and other street art add a touch of whimsy to the scene, and the Edison and Ford Winter Estates relate the fascinating story of two of America’s industrial icons.Thomas Edison first visited Fort Myers in 1885 and built a winter retreat. Henry Ford came to town at Edison’s invitation in 1914 and bought an adjacent bungalow. Today, the complex they shared includes botanical gardens and the laboratory in which Edison tested more than 17,000 plants while seeking a substitute for natural rubber, finally selecting goldenrod as the most promising. A 15,000-square-foot museum is packed with his innovative inventions and other displays.
Boca Grande became a winter escape before roads were built for northerners, who arrived by train. That time is evoked by old Florida homes and tree-framed streets. The calm is disrupted each spring by fishermen seeking their luck in one of the best tarpon hideouts in the world.
Bonita Springs, a personal favorite, traces its birth to the mid-1800s, but the Calusa had lived in the area long before then.
Wildlife Reserves
Surrounding these towns and historic sites are natural places and spaces that themselves would warrant a visit. The Bird Rookery Swamp Trail leads through wetlands inhabited by alligators, otters, bobcats, and other water- and land-dwellers, along with a virtual aviary of colorful and colorfully named birds.The Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve is a narrow wetland that serves as a home and safe travel route for a variety of wildlife, including endangered species. A boardwalk provides easy access and convenient viewing areas.
