Mexico City: Exploring the Upscale, Cool Neighborhood of La Condesa

Cyclists in La Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City. Wandering views/Shutterstock

Mexico City is famous for many things, but perhaps most of all, people around the world know one thing about this sprawling metropolis: It’s big. Huge. An almost inconceivably massive place. Home to 9 million people, it’s the largest city in North America. And the metro area? Closer to 22 million.

And on a previous visit, I sought to see as much of this Mexican capital as possible. I sat in interminable traffic, heading to markets, galleries, and historic sites. I shopped along Avenida Cinco de Mayo and joined the crush of tourists and locals on the Zocalo, the city’s main square. Once a place of Aztec sacrifice, it’s big enough to hold 100,000 people and is now a spot for sightseers and protesters alike to gather under the massive, flapping Mexican flag.

But on a recent visit, arriving somewhat exhausted from a busy travel schedule, I had an idea. In a city known for its size, winding freeways, and gridlock, what if I just concentrated on seeing things on foot? So soon after landing, I resolved to relax, enjoy, and, above all, just walk.

If strolling is going to be your primary means of transportation, you’ll need to make sure you’re staying in the right neighborhood. And I lucked out by booking into the Mondrian in La Condesa. A brand new hotel that opened just in the past year, it’s an attraction in itself.

Built in a historically protected mid-century building, it mixes together history, quirk, and innovative design. Life pulsates out of a central courtyard, which was once a shopping arcade, where the floors were inspired by the boardwalk at Rio’s Copacabana. Here, the owner situates highly polished automobiles from his car collection. On my visit, I found a vintage 1965 Ford Mustang and a beautiful Rolls Royce Silver Shadow, whose trunk was popped, several bottles of top-end tequila arranged inside.

Sitting down in a velvety chair near the big swings in the lobby with the chief concierge, he explained that the hotel’s mission is to mirror the surrounding La Condesa. For example, a small shop near the courtyard exclusively sells products made nearby, everything from coffee and soap to mezcal.

“La Condesa is young and cool, but also upscale,” he explained.

Visitors will find galleries and speakeasies alike, as well as funky and fun independent shops and excellent restaurants. Baltra, ranked in the top 50 bars in the world, is just a few blocks away.

But I wasn’t looking for a scene. Mostly, I was looking to walk. And I was staying right in the heart of what’s probably the best neighborhood in the city for a stroll. Once part of a huge estate owned by a colonial countess (in Spanish, “La Condesa” literally means “the countess”), the land was divided and sold in 1902. In the following decades, the area took shape. Fortunately, these were the days of Art Deco, and many examples of this style remain along the neighborhood’s broad, curving avenues and little hidden-away back lanes.

A Stroll in Mexico City

During the day, I ambled along the sidewalks under leafy, spreading trees. I was joined by residents walking their dogs, couples holding hands, and parents pushing strollers. I popped into bookshops and browsed the small stalls at a market I stumbled upon.

And I loved the parks. Walk a few blocks here, turn a corner, and you’ll find a lovely little leafy enclave with a few benches facing a bubbling fountain in the middle. And less than 10 minutes from the hotel on foot, Parque México became my favorite place to spend a warm, sunny afternoon.

Created in 1927, this was once a racetrack, and the surrounding area was named accordingly—Colonia Hipdromo. Take a look at a map, and you’ll see it—that unmistakable round shape where horses once galloped to victory. There’s Art Deco here, in the shape of an ironwork clock tower, as well as Foro Lindbergh. The latter is the park’s central plaza, with an amphitheater and pergolas and spaces for people to gather and play, dance, or even skateboard.

I mostly enjoyed getting a bit lost on the meandering paths. Seeing families feeding the ducks on the pond. Or just taking a deep breath in a city so often choked by smog. Planted with exotic flora, such as Lebanese cypresses and even bamboo, Parque México is sometimes known as the “lungs of the city.”

But I loved the night, when La Condesa really lights up. The al fresco tables set up on seemingly every corner fill with locals. Bursts of laughter and involved, often passionate Latin-toned conversation emanate from wine bars and tiny little restaurants. I always chose my dinner at random, usually favoring places serving up al pastor, the trademark taco of Mexico City. That beautiful pork, spit-roasted shawarma style and then wrapped up in a soft corn tortilla, just simply melted in my mouth.

One night, I took a nice, long walk, then finished with a drink back at the hotel’s rooftop Skybar. Here, too, little groups of residents chatted away, and I listened in, understanding nothing but enjoying every staccato syllable. On my way back to my room, I took in the view. Tall towers sparkled in the night. Nearby neighborhoods, such as Polanco, Tacubaya, and Granada, were seemingly a million miles away. I was already looking forward to another day of staying close and taking my walk the next morning.

When You Go

Fly: Mexico City’s Benito Juarez International Airport is Latin America’s busiest hub. From here, direct flights land from many cities in North America, as well as Europe and Asia.

Stay: The Mondrian Mexico City La Condesa offers stylish rooms, each one with local artwork and other thoughtful touches. Like its sister hotel on the Sunset Strip in West Hollywood, it’s also a gathering place for fashionable local residents, so you can get a taste of the city without ever leaving the property.

Getting Around: Mexico City has a very serviceable system of buses and subway lines, and ride-sharing services are quite affordable. But if you plan on focusing on just one district, such as La Condesa, you can easily walk everywhere you need to go.

Take Note: Unlike more touristy parts of Mexico—sun destinations such as Playa del Carmen or Puerto Vallarta—a much smaller percentage of the population here speaks English. So it might be helpful to learn a few basic phrases in Spanish and keep the translation app on your phone open.