Levels are one of the most important instruments used in the construction industry; carpenters, masons, bricklayers, metalworkers, and handymen couldn’t do their job without one. Some photographers swear by them, too (the best tripods include a bubble level).
There are many to choose from, and you may need to add more than one to your workshop. In a pinch, you can use a measuring cup filled with water to level a shelf that you are hanging, but let’s try to avoid that.
The Must-Have(s)
No workshop is complete without a standard, two-foot carpenter’s level. A member of the bubble-level family, it utilizes a design that has worked for centuries: a simple but accurate sealed tube containing a solution that moves a bubble to the center of the instrument to let you know when you’re spot on. It can be commonly found in four-foot and six-foot lengths, but the two-foot one is the size you’ll probably use most.In a pinch, it can be turned into a longer level by laying it on a six-, eight-, or even a 10-foot flat (not warped in any way!) two-by-four piece of wood, that is then laid on the area you are measuring. The bubble levels are located in the center, and at both ends, to allow for quick checking of level (horizontal) and plumb (vertical). They are the tool you need to hang pictures or shelves, build furniture, and many other home and construction projects.
A torpedo level (also called a canoe level because of its tapered shape) is sized at nine inches long and one inch wide to fit easily in a toolbox. It has similar features to the carpenter’s level, as well as a 45-degree bubble level for angles. It is well-suited for small, awkward spaces. Some models have magnets to keep your hands free for the rest of your task.
1 or 2 Pictures
The first step to getting accurate results when using any form of bubble level—whether you are hanging a picture or adding an addition to the house—is the level’s position. Whether using it horizontally or vertically, it must be pressed (or set) firmly at the center of the object being aligned, because holding it loosely or off-center can result in an unwanted tilt.Straightforward Shelf
Bracket shelves are simple, sturdy, and classic. Start by taking your carpenter’s level and drawing a thin pencil line on the wall at the desired height. Set the first bracket into position, using the level vertically to make sure it is plumb. Mark the screw holes, drill, and install. (Don’t toss out the wall anchors that came with it; they are provided for a reason.) Repeat with the second bracket. Set the top wood or glass in place. Double-check with your level, and then pat yourself on the back.Note: If the shelves are going to be bearing any amount of weight beyond very light, decorative items, you’ll want to locate the studs with a stud finder (it beeps when slid over a stud) and screw into them directly, or upgrade the weight-bearing capacity of the wall anchors.