Every year when the holiday season rolls around, the focus is on picture-perfect small towns blanketed in snow and populated by rosy-checked revelers caroling their joyous hearts out.
That scenario does make for some entertaining Hallmark movies, but my thoughts always drift back to the many years I spent at the opposite end of the continent in the subtropical climes of New Orleans. That’s when I carol my joyous heart out.
OK, Christmas traditionalists, I’ll give you the fact that you probably won’t need a heavy coat—the temps are more likely to be in the 60s than the 30s, and the probability of snow is, short of a miracle, zero. Oh, but the Big Easy offers so much more.
As with everything else, New Orleans does Christmas differently than the rest of the country. Instead of Santa racing over the rooftops in his sleigh piloted by reindeer, Pere Noel makes his way up the Mississippi River in a pirogue piloted by alligators.
Don’t worry that he might get lost in the bayou, as locals line the banks of the Mighty Mississippi, making bonfires to light his way.
Perhaps to overcompensate for Jack Frost not nipping at your nose, the city goes all out in decorating. Historic French Quarter homes such as the Herman-Grima House and Gallier House are decked out in the finest of finery, and down in the Garden District, the New Orleans Preservation Society hosts its annual homes tour. This is your chance to peek inside those wrought iron gates and white-columned porches.
Celebration in the Oaks transforms 25 acres of City Park into a dazzling light display, and the seasonal concerts in St. Louis Cathedral fill the magnificent basilica, which has been in use (though not in its current form) since the city’s founding in 1718. If you’ve never heard local icon Irma Thomas’ version of “O Holy Night,” you don’t know what you’re missing.
But the main thing that defines Christmas in New Orleans to me is something that no other American city offers—the traditional réveillon dinner.
French for “awakening,” the réveillon dinner was a hallmark of the season for the city’s 18th and 19th century Creole aristocrats. Family and friends gathered twice during the holidays (Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve) for a feast of epic proportions. More than one gentleman felt the buttons on his waistcoat give way, and ladies had to loosen the laces on their corsets.
Today’s holiday visitors can enjoy a recreation of the réveillon at more than 50 of the city’s restaurants, ranging in price from $40 at Suzie’s Soulhouse Soulfood Restaurant to $185 at celebrity chef John Besh’s Restaurant August, with the average ranging from $60 to $70 for a three- or four-course dinner.
Antoine’s
Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant (circa 1840) and so famous it was immortalized in Frances Parkinson Keyes’ novel “Dinner at Antoine’s.” Known for being the birthplace of Oysters Rockefeller and its vast collection of Mardi Gras memorabilia, Antoine’s offers a four-course réveillon menu, priced at a very reasonable $68.Galatoire’s
Another legendary Creole restaurant, Galatoire’s, has a réveillon menu that’s a steal at $48.First course is a choice of Shrimp Remoulade with fine herbs, smoked paprika, and preserved lemon or Fried Oysters with Herbsaint Cream, Wilted Spinach, and Tarragon.
The second course is a Roasted Pumpkin Squash salad with Pumpkin Seed Brittle, gem lettuce, and Pumpkin Seed Vinaigrette or Corn and Crab Bisque with Armagnac Bergamot Crema and Corn Relish.
The third course has four choices: Roasted Chicken Breast with Squash Puree; Fried Demi Porkchops; Crab Encrusted Trout, and Grilled Petite Filet.
If you still have room, finish with a dessert choice of Figgy Pudding with Christmas Brandy Sauce or Black Bottom Pecan Pie with Whiskey Caramel Sauce.
Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House
Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House makes it easy for diners with a pre-set menu for $67.Start off with an Oysters Rockefeller Chowder, follow with a Citrus Cranberry Salad and Gulf Fish Iberville, Shrimp, Crab and Artichoke Saute, and Lemon Thyme Beurre Blanc, and finish your meal with Rum Cake soaked in New Orleans rum.
Grill Room
If you want to venture outside the French Quarter, head across Canal Street to the elegant Windsor Court Hotel and its equally elegant Grill Room.With another pre-set menu, the Grill Room offers four courses for $80, including a wine pairing.
First course is Gulf Crab with Avocado and Grapefruit Salad, paired with a Sancerre, followed by a second course of Herb Ricotta Raviollo, accompanied by an Albarino.
The third course features Braised Short Rib paired with Tenuta Luce Lucente from Tuscany, while the dessert course of Cranberry Orange Bread Pudding pairs well with a Riesling from Germany’s Mosel Region.
Commander’s Palace
There’s always a party going on at Commander’s Palace in the Garden District, and you never know which famous face might be sitting at the table next to you.Commander’s is a bit pricier at $135, but you do get an extra course for the money.
Blue Crab Stuffed Louisiana Blue Crab gets things started, followed by Citrus Glazed Pork and Fried Gulf Oysters.
Ralph’s on the Park
Should you plan to head to City Park for Celebration in the Oaks, book your réveillon dinner at Ralph’s on the Park.Your four-course dinner for $85 begins with Duck and Andouille Gumbo, and follows with Blackened Redfish with Seafood Bouillabaisse served tableside, Steak au Poivre, and Satsuma Icebox Pie.
Whichever restaurant you choose for your “awakening,” should you be wearing a waistcoat or corset, you’ll have some loosening to do.
Now, tell me, with all that NOLA has in store for the holidays, will you really miss the snow?
