Rarely does the consumer venture beyond chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling and pinot grigio, but these 7 rare grapes reward the adventurous drinker.
Quality white wines are a relatively new development in the wine world, and this category is really quite a recent addition to our dinnertime beverage choices.
For centuries, white wine wasn’t produced very widely because it was fragile: It deteriorated fairly quickly. Since biblical times, most table wines have been red wine.
Red wines could be made that would last until they could be delivered to distant customers because they had constituents that protected them. White wines had no such substances and were often ravaged by ruinous oxidation.
The wide use of glass bottles and corks, of course, allowed some white wines to be produced and distributed to distant consumers, but few of these wines were fresh and appealing because they were fermented in vats at temperatures that were not always appropriate for making white wine.
To be made properly, white wines have to be protected from oxygen, and fermentations for quality wines should be very cool, so the fruit is protected. It wasn’t until about 1965, when closed-top stainless steel tanks with glycol jackets for cooling began to be widely used, that whites came of age.
Among the first to take advantage of this modern idea were the chardonnays of France’s Burgundy district. To this day, white Burgundy is one of the world’s finest whites.
Today, we can buy a plethora of white wines that use modern technologies benefiting the wines by protecting delicate fruity elements. But rarely does the consumer venture beyond chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling, and pinot grigio. But there are so many additional choices!
Gruner veltliner: An Austrian grape that some people compare with riesling, gruner is a fascinating, slightly sweet wine with a faint leafy aroma. Although it can age for a few years, it usually is best when youthful and fresh. One of the best is from Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards in southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley.
Garganega: This is a light, delicate, usually dry Italian wine grape that is the main variety used to make Soave and other white wines. It can be almost austerely dry and is best served with light seafood dishes.
Grenache blanc: This popular white wine grape has nothing to do with the red version (grenache noir) that is at the heart of so many red wines from southern France. This wine has an intriguing mineral, chalky component that makes it fascinating with many kinds of light foods. Ridge Vineyards makes one from Paso Robles fruit.
Vermentino: This racy Italian grape has developed quite a following throughout the country in the last two years with wines that are delicately floral, have good acidity, and work extremely well with well-seasoned seafood dishes. Several Italian versions are available. There is one by Reeve Wines made from Sonoma Coast grapes.
French colombard: This normally simple, high-acid grape produces exceptionally interesting dry versions. One of the best is from Marchelle, Russian River Valley, off 100-year-old vines.
Ribolla gialla: Made from a rare floral Italian grape, one version by Miro Cellars ($22) is completely unique. There is almost nothing like it—a dry wine that tastes sweet! It is wildly fruity in aroma and has hints of lemon curd, pineapple, and Bartlett pear.
Arinto: This is made from a very rare Portuguese grape that has orange peel and spice aromatics. One version by Sierra Foothills producer Andis ($25) is fascinating.
Wine of the Week
2022 Mateus Dry Rosé, Portugal ($12): Many people will remember this wine from decades ago when it was slightly sparkling and relatively sweet. Recently this Portuguese company has developed an interesting method for making it dry, and it is appealing and surprisingly food-friendly. With hints of watermelon and dried rose petals, the aroma is fresh and the aftertaste is dry.Dear Readers: We would love to hear from you. What topics would you like to read about? Please send your feedback and tips to [email protected]. 
