In the morning my wife, Fyllis, and I walked along a path right in town that skirts waterfalls that tumble to the bottom of a deep gorge. Then we strolled in a lovely botanical garden set in an expansive natural environment. Lunch consisted of fresh farm-to-table produce accompanied by cider, for which the destination is famous, and dinner featured similar fare augmented by equally well-known wine.
Our introduction to Ithaca, New York, included some attractions for which the small city is famous, but it only scratched the surface. Many people equate Ithaca (population about 32,000) with Cornell University, Ithaca College and nearby Tompkins Cortland Community College. Those learning institutions augment -- but don’t define -- what the town has to offer visitors.
Its “Ithaca Is Gorges” motto encapsulates both the proliferation of narrow ravines that bisect steep rock walls, many of which are home to cascading waterfalls, and the beauty of the surroundings. It also refers to rolling farm fields, grapes growing in vineyards that dot the area and Cayuga Lake, the longest (38-plus miles) of the 11 narrow Finger Lakes gouged out by Ice Age glaciers as they moved south from present-day Canada.
Cayuga Lake is named after the indigenous Cayuga people, who were there when the Europeans arrived and still reside in the region. Early in the 19th century settlers began to build houses and mills that were powered by waterfalls. At one time dozens of factories manufactured flour, paper, agricultural equipment and other goods.
Much local history comes alive at The History Center, a state-of-the-art museum that includes interactive displays, collections of Native American artifacts and other exhibits. But it’s outdoors where the appeals of Ithaca are most evident. The area in and around town claims more than 150 waterfalls, and the viewing begins right in Ithaca itself. Aptly named Ithaca Falls is located within the city limits. Nearby Buttermilk Falls takes its name from the foaming water created as it descends in a series of rapids. With a vertical plummet of 215 feet, Taughannock Falls is 33 feet higher than Niagara and the tallest single-drop falls east of the Rocky Mountains.
While waterfall-watching is a favorite activity in the area, an almost alphabet-long list of other things to do also vies for attention. An Art Trail leads to the studios of dozens of resident artists, and a Murals Map outlines a tour to view wall paintings and installations throughout the city. Hiking, biking and other trails crisscross the surrounding woods.
The Discovery Trail links an enticing group of attractions that range from the magnificent Cornell Botanic Gardens and Cayuga Nature Center to the Johnson Museum of art and a 226-acre ornithology sanctuary, where more than 230 species of birds have been recorded.
Fishermen cast their lines into stream waters and troll for landlocked salmon and trout in Cayuga Lake. Others explore the lake in tour boats, while some view it from hot-air balloons sailing above.
A drive through the bucolic countryside that surrounds Ithaca provides an introduction to other things to see, do and enjoy. Some are off the main roads and, in their way, offbeat. One such sojourn led us to the tiny town of Trumansburg, which was incorporated in 1872 and just celebrated its 150th anniversary. Originally the community was called Tremaine’s Village, a tribute to founder Abner Tremaine, who was granted the land for his service in the Revolutionary War.
After developing as a mill town and commercial agricultural center, Trumansburg settled into its present-day role as a bedroom community for Ithaca and retreat for those who prefer life in the slow lane. Pavement markers recall pages from the past. For example, Trumansburg Optical stands where a tavern operated in 1810, and the Wok Chinese Restaurant occupies the building that housed a firefighting company in the late 1800s.
While the farmers market in Ithaca is operated by a cooperative of about 150 vendors, the weekly Trumansburg version makes up in small-town charm what it lacks in size. While we were there a local band provided entertainment, people purchased just-picked fruits and vegetables, and the Autumn Harvest Farm stand offered “free beef bones” along with its selection of meats. Another vendor hawked fresh mushrooms and mushroom tincture, and two young women wove yarn and knitted warm winter clothing.
The food treats available in this tranquil setting hint at the focus on field-to-plate pleasures that greet visitors to the Ithaca area. Throw in magnificent samples of Mother Nature’s handiwork and a lengthy list of activities and attractions, and it becomes clear that the “Ithaca Is Gorges” slogan is not only catchy -- but true.
The Hotel Ithaca is a gathering place for Cornell alumni and other visitors, and its ambience provides links to the surroundings. Walls are covered with photos of the wondrous waterfalls that people associate with the destination. The hotel is close to the popular Ithaca Commons, a wide pedestrian mall lined by places to eat and drink, shop and explore shops, galleries and public art.
The Moosewood Restaurant is a bright star in the farm-to-table trend that celebrates the variety that vegetables can provide to the hungry diner. Other dining alternatives include vineyards, breweries and cideries that offer food from nearby farms to enjoy with their libations: www.cityofithaca.org.
