How to Protect Your Home’s Plumbing in Winter

Water expands as it freezes, which can damage pipes, drains, and even appliances. Avoid this nightmare scenario by taking proper precautions.
How to Protect Your Home’s Plumbing in Winter
Insulating indoor pipes helps prevent heat loss, reduce energy costs, and maintain water temperature in plumbing systems. SSKH-Pictures/Shutterstock
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Freezing temperatures are the biggest threat to outdoor plumbing, and indoor pipes can also freeze if there is a power outage or problem with the home heating system.

Replacing these pipes will likely be extensive and expensive, and burst pipes can also disrupt the water supply and even cause flooding as they thaw, which in turn can lead to additional costly damage to walls, floors, rugs, furniture, and other personal possessions. Water can also freeze inside appliances, adding to the trauma.

Fortunately, there are several proactive do-it-yourself measures that will offer significant protection for both indoor and outdoor plumbing.

Easy Outdoor Essentials

Before the first freeze, remove hoses from spigots, drain them completely, and store them in a protected location. Hoses left outside, even if thoroughly drained, can become brittle, crack, and develop leaks. If possible, turn off the home’s exterior shutoff valve to cut off the water supply to the outside faucets. Cover all spigots with specially designed insulated covers. They’re worth the investment, as they’ll last for many years.
Outdoor kitchens need to be protected as well. Shut off the water supply, then drain all faucets, sinks, and drain traps. Unplug and drain the refrigerator and icemaker. Cover the entire kitchen with a heavy-duty cover.

Most Vulnerable Indoor Areas

Pipes in unheated garages, basements, attics, kitchen and bathroom cabinets, and crawl spaces are at particular risk, as are those that run against uninsulated exterior walls. This is where specifically designed pipe insulation comes in.

Polyethylene foam is simple and inexpensive. Its tube design may resemble a child’s pool noodle, but this material offers significant insulating properties. It features a pre-cut slit that makes it easy to slide onto pipes, and it works best on cold water pipes. Rubber tubing costs slightly more but works well on both cold and hot water pipes and is extremely flexible for working in challenging areas.

Another option, pipe-wraps come in a variety of materials (foil-backed fiberglass, foil-backed foam, foam and rubber, and foil-backed cotton, to name a few). Start at one end of the pipe and simply wrap it around until the other end is reached. Use as many rolls as needed.

Insulating the area between pipes and an exterior wall with typical home insulation fiberglass batts provides significant protection for both hot and cold water pipes. Which leads to the next thought: As a long-term upgrade, consider adding full insulation to the garage (including the door), attic, and basement to increase overall warmth.

Keep the garage doors closed, particularly if it contains the water supply lines. Meanwhile, open kitchen and bathroom cabinets to allow the home’s heat inside.

Seal ‘Em Up

If it wasn’t done during fall winterizing, seal up all cracks and gaps around windows, doors, and wall penetrations where cables, wires, or pipes come in.
Some DIYers seal the rim joist (a common source of air leaks) and floor joists in the basement ceiling, but be sure to not insulate the pipes against the warmth of the rest of the house. That would be counterproductive.

Water Heater 101

Don’t forget to wrap the water heater tank in a thermal blanket to hold the heat in. This will not only help keep it from freezing, but can also reduce the gas or electric bill.
For those with a tankless model, breathe easy knowing that most tankless water heaters have electric freeze prevention that protects critical internal parts against freezing temperatures from minus 5 degrees F to minus 22 degrees F. But, keep in mind that this protection won’t work in a power outage.

Hard-Won Wisdom

This may seem counterproductive, but many plumbers recommend running a slow trickle of cold water to an interior faucet during extreme lows. This small drip may be enough movement to keep the water inside from solidifying. The key is to make sure that the interior faucet isn’t against an uninsulated exterior wall that could freeze.

When All Else Fails

Empty pipes won’t burst. If the situation appears dire and burst pipes are highly probable, drain the entire house. It’s extreme, but much better than the alternative.

Start by shutting off the water at the main and opening all faucets so they drain completely. Some valve designs flow only with water pressure—if so, remove the faucet valve. Drain the toilet tank, bowl (as much as possible), and incoming hoses. Drain the water heater and incoming lines connected to it. Empty all drain traps by removing the drain plug or the U-shaped trap completely. Blow out all incoming or outgoing lines with compressed air, if available.

Be sure to inspect kitchen sinks, bathroom sinks, bathtub drains, shower and other floor drains, toilets, and the basement sump pump pits.

Insulate pipes that cannot be drained with towels, blankets, or newspapers, even if they already have insulation. Fill traps and other drain areas where water cannot be removed with propylene-glycol-based antifreeze rated for the temperature of the coming freeze and mixed for the amount of standing water.

Disconnect and drain the ice maker, washing machine and its wall and floor drain, dishwasher, and humidifier. Don’t put antifreeze in appliances.

As a best-case scenario, the plumbing will be saved. At the very least, this will significantly mitigate the damage.

Sprinkler Tips

After turning off the water source to the landscape irrigation system and draining the pump of its well water, it’s time to:

Drain the Lines

Manual draining consists of simply opening all of the valves and letting gravity work. It is best for systems with manual valves at the lower ends. Automatic drain, if available, does the job for the user. Blow-out draining requires compressed air and some caution but clears the most water from the lines.

Final Shutdown

Set the electronic controller to “Rain Mode” (which saves settings) or “Off.” Well water pumps can be filled with propylene glycol, or removed and stored in a garage. Disconnect the power from any pump-activating timers to ensure that the pump doesn’t accidentally run and overheat.

Wrapping Things Up

Insulate the main shut-off and other valves, backflow preventers, and any above-ground piping with foam insulating tubes or self-sticking insulating tape. Take care not to block air vents or drain outlets.
Sandy Lindsey
Sandy Lindsey
Author
Sandy Lindsey is an award-winning writer who covers home, gardening, DIY projects, pets, and boating. She has two books with McGraw-Hill.