Early spring is a wondrous time as dormant bulbs begin to pop up out of the soil. Didn’t plant any last fall? No worries; it’s not too late.
In fact, many gardeners “lift” bulbs—removing them from the soil and storing them indoors—for a variety of reasons, and replant them each spring. These include gardeners who live in climates with freezing winters, where the bulbs may not survive in the ground, as well as locales with very mild winters, where bulbs are lifted and artificially chilled to mimic winter so they will bloom come spring. This is also the case in wet climates, where the bulbs could be subject to rot while dormant.
The Word ‘Bulb’
For general gardening, the term “bulb” includes not just “true” bulbs, but corms, tuberous roots, and rhizomes. These all fall under the category of geophytes—plants with underground storage organs containing valuable energy and water. Despite having different structures, geophytes’ habits are similar—and they all need to be lifted.True bulbs are what generally come to mind when you think of bulbs: They’re shaped like garlic. Scaly bulbs, such as lilies, lack a protective outer covering and have loosely arranged scales that make them more susceptible to drying out. Tunicate bulbs, such as tulips, have a papery outer layer that helps retain moisture. Both have a basal plate at the bottom, from which roots and the central shoot both grow.
Tubers, such as dahlias, lack a distinct basal plate and protective outer layer. Instead, they have rough, leathery skin and bud multiple “eyes” for shoots and roots.
Irises and other rhizomes have underground stems that grow at or below the soil surface. These structures send out roots from their undersides and shoots from their tops.
Corms, such as crocus and gladiolus, resemble true bulbs in appearance but function differently. They have a solid, swollen stem base that stores nutrients. A single bud at the top of the corm produces shoots, while roots develop from the bottom. Over time, the original corm shrivels as it depletes its stored energy, but new corms form on top or around it.
Hardy Versus Tender
Bulbs are further divided into two seasonal categories: hardy and tender. Hardy bulbs, which can be left in the ground to bloom year after year in temperate zones, include tulips, daffodils, lilies (early), irises, hyacinths, alliums, and crocuses.These spring-blooming flowers are the lowest maintenance choice and will provide years of reliable color. They can be planted in the fall and left to overwinter (in Zones 3 to 8), planted in the spring after proper winter storage (more on that in a bit!), or purchased “pre-chilled” from local nurseries or online for immediate planting.
Tender flowering bulbs, such as dahlias, begonias, gladiolus, lilies (mid-season and late), and their cousins, caladium, calla, and canna, which are grown for their colorful leaves, are categorized as summer bloomers. They are planted each spring after the soil has warmed up with consistent 40-degree to 50-degree Fahrenheit overnight temperatures and all danger of frost past. They cannot survive the winter cold and must be “lifted” each fall.
Bulb Selection
Size is key; bigger bulbs will give a bigger bloom. Look for plump, firm bulbs without mold or soft spots. The root base should also be firm and undamaged. If shopping at local garden centers, shop early not only to get the biggest bulbs available, but to also enjoy the best selection, as some rarer types sell out quickly.Planting
Most bulbs will do well in full sun to partial shade, so a site with a minimum of five to six hours per day of direct sunlight is ideal. The soil must be well-drained, as wet soil can lead to rot. Add compost or peat to poor clay or otherwise poor-draining soil; this will give it a nutritional boost over time as well.The rule of thumb is to bury bulbs (and the other geophytes) one and a half to two times the depth of the bulb, top to bottom. Always plant bulbs with the pointed end facing upwards. From an aesthetic perspective, plant in large groupings or drifts (ribbons or waves of color) for the most visual impact.
Easy Maintenance
Fertilization isn’t necessary when planting the bulb, because it has all the food it needs inside itself to sprout. But when the first shoots start to appear, fertilize it lightly with an organic fertilizer made for bulbs. Stay away from high-nitrogen fertilizers, as they will lead to more green growth at the expense of flowers.Soak the bulb thoroughly immediately after planting it. Then, water it every other day for the first week. After that, once a week is sufficient.
Deadhead (cut off) flowers as they start to fade and before they go to seed, as that natural process takes away “food” from the bulb. This trimming may also lead to additional blooming.
Dig and Store
Wait until the foliage and leaves have fully died back, then carefully dig up the bulbs with a spading fork or a handheld garden fork. Gently wash off any soil, then spread them out to dry and cure in a shady spot, typically for two or three days.Store them in a cool, dry basement, garage, or shed at 50 degrees to 55 degrees. Most can be stored in a cardboard box in a manner that allows for good air circulation. Never pile bulbs more than two to three layers thick, or they’ll generate heat and decay.
The exceptions are begonia, canna, caladium, and dahlia bulbs, which prefer to have their soil left on, and should be stored on lightly moistened peat moss or sawdust.
