While visitors might expect to snorkel, swim, and hike during a visit to St. John and the Virgin Island National Park, trekking to the remains of windmills may be an unexpected—albeit captivating—bonus.
Indeed, this Caribbean island is the only one of the three main U.S. Virgin Islands that includes one of the 63 National Parks. Within the 23-mile protected area are four easily accessible windmills. There’s a fifth one outside the national park on an estate called Susannaberg. A few other windmill ruins exist, but they are more difficult to get to.
Annaberg Windmills
Perhaps the most prominent and well preserved of the National Park windmills is at the site of a former Annaberg plantation. The others are at sites called Cinnamon Bay, Catherineberg, and Reef Bay. Windmills were used in the late 18th century and into the 19th century to crush sugar cane.The windmills worked like this: Cut sugar cane was brought to the base of the windmill and fed into massive whirling rollers which spun thanks to the power generated by the wind. The wind energy was caught by revolving sails, which were attached to arms that turned a central shaft. This shaft operated the rollers. Once the sugar cane was crushed, the juice flowed into a flume and then was boiled and processed until it became hardened sugar.
Because windmills were expensive to build and dangerous to use, sugar plantation owners built only a few. The wind-powered rollers were especially dangerous because the mechanism could not be stopped quickly were fingers, hand, or an arm to get caught. Instead, some relied on mule or donkey-powered cane crushers.
Long-lasting Ruins
Individuals who have an opportunity to visit the remains of a St. John’s windmill will wonder at just how such quality construction could be achieved over two centuries ago—and furthermore, maintain its sturdiness. Besides the wooden elements used for doors, windows, and turning components, the main, solid structural aspects have stood the test of time against harsh weather from hurricanes and salty wind.
Perched high on a cleared knoll overlooking an inlet called Leinster Bay, the 40-foot Annaberg windmill was made—like all the windmills on the island—with a combination of meticulously placed and stacked brain coral, field stones, pieces of brick, and some shells. All were held together with hand-mixed mortar. The effect is a compilation of saturated earth hues. The neutral-colored mortar provides some interwoven contrast.
The architectural design of the windmills is wider at the base and tapering at the top; thus, they have better endured a century-plus of settling.
Interestingly, the individuals who constructed these utilitarian structures also added a bit of architectural creativity. Brick-lined arches, keystones, and brain corals adorning openings are common decorative elements incorporated into the overall look of the windmills. In fact, in some spots on the windmills, visitors will find a special shell, primarily large conch shells, embedded into a prominent spot near a door or window.
The windmills at St. John speak to a long-ago era. Although fraught with troubles due to an economy built on enslaved labor, the history here helps visitors appreciate the Resourceful innovation on a tiny island territory of the United States.
