Sometimes, we like our lake vacations mild—boats, books, and hiking boots. Other times, we crave a lively lake getaway with good restaurants, music, street festivals, and bars. Either way, Elkhart Lake in eastern Wisconsin, about two and a half hours from Chicago, delivers a next-level lake vacation full of surprises.
The village, with a population of fewer than 1,000, immediately charmed us. The spring-fed, 229-acre lake carved by glaciers shines an iridescent blue, and tall spruce, pines, and cedars line the shore. Hills surround the lake, and the manicured green lawn of the Osthoff Resort sweeps down to the water. The small downtown retains the Victorian-era train depot (trains no longer arrive), and the former feed mill houses SwitchGear Brewing Co., a brewery and taproom. Don’t miss Vintage Elkhart Lake for wines from around the world, Throttlestop for vintage cars and motorcycles, and Gessert’s for ice cream.
Two surprises at the Osthoff Resort are its cooking school and spa. As a basic cook with a penchant for takeout food, I typically shy away from culinary seminars. After all, it’s no fun being the class dunce. But Chef Rodney Schulz, with equal parts charm and low-key direction, made the class fun. Instead of being shocked at how we cut an onion, he gently modeled the knife skills that won’t chop off fingers. He demonstrated how to knead dough and explained the basics of sauce. We made pasta and marinara sauce from scratch! The kids back home are still in disbelief. The school also holds sessions on barbecue, ramen noodles, pizza, lamb kabobs, Louisiana-style cooking, and Indian curries.
The Osthoff Resort’s Aspira Spa is excellent. At the 20,000-square-foot facility with 16 treatment rooms, guests can relax in a salt room touted to lessen inflammation. From an array of massages, facials, and body treatments, we chose a therapeutic detox salt bath followed by a deep-tissue massage. The Aspira therapist listened, adjusting the firmness of her touch so that instead of feeling beaten up afterward, we came away happy and relaxed. The spa is also available to nonhotel guests.
Road America, another surprise, adds vroom. Less than 3 miles from Elkhart Lake, the 640-acre motorsports mecca gains fame for its 4.048-mile course laid out with hills and harrowing turns. The track hosts vintage race cars, superbikes, sports cars, IndyCar, Trans AM, and other races. The day we visited, Porsche club members tested their mettle. On Sunset Cruise days, enthusiasts can drive their own cars for three laps at low speed. Kart drivers can practice their skills at the Motorplex. We hit the dirt in an off-road Yamaha four-seater utility terrain vehicle. Although someone else took the wheel, we enjoyed bumping over boulders, bouncing down and up deep ruts, and rocking through the woods.
Racing is part of Elkhart Lake’s history. From 1950 to ‘52, Elkhart Lake hosted car races through town. After Wisconsin authorities banned public road-racing, some influential local citizens planned a permanent racecourse. Road America debuted in 1955. Race days bring in throngs, and the village population balloons. In season, it’s wise to book lodging and meals in advance.
Craving some country quiet? By water, be sure to kayak, paddleboat, or canoe on the lake before 10 a.m., when motorized vessels take over. By land, hike a section of the wooded Ice Age National Scenic Trail near the Labudde Creek State Fishery in Elkhart Lake. Take along some typically Wisconsin munchies—quality cheese from Henning’s Store, Museum, and Factory in Kiel, 6 1/2 miles from Elkhart Lake. The fourth-generation cheese crafters use local dairies and the skills of Kerry Henning, a certified master cheesemaker, to produce award-winning cheese. Their aged cheddar ranked among the top 20 cheeses in its category at the 2024 World Championship Cheese Contest.
In season, Elkhart Lake’s three major resorts host free live music at their bustling bars. The Osthoff Resort, which offers one- to three-bedroom units with kitchens, features bands on its lake deck. At the Shore Club, sip a cocktail at the waterfront Tiki Bar. Among the tasty dishes in the dining room is Beef Wellington, a throwback to the 1930s. A block from the lake, Siebkens Resort offers cozy rooms in its historic section and one- to three-bedroom condos with kitchens in another building. Siebkens’ Stop-Inn Tavern thrums with energy, and P.A.M.’s dining room serves good walleye piccata with spinach and dairy-free risotto puttanesca. Among the town’s rental units, the VRBO property Heart of Elkhart Lake offers a two-bedroom condo with a friendly feel and an attentive host.