Finland’s Christmas City Turku

Finnland’s traditional Christmas season begins the first Sunday of Advent when worshippers sing the “Hosianna Hymn.”

The Christmas tree with real candles was brought to Finland by the Germans. Courtesy of Elke Backert

Fir branches cushion the steps to the “Haus der Engel,” (Angel House). Fragrances wafting from beeswax candles and red apples entice people to enter the establishment. The café and gallery carries its name deservedly. The waiters and waitresses masquerade as angels and are as seductive as the angel paintings decorating walls and chairs. The food is as tasty as the harpist’s music is lyrical. Drinks are served from angel-shaped cups and glasses, and the names of sweets go right along with the venue’s theme: cakes called “Seraphim, Armor’s Arrow, Angel Kiss,” and “Fallen Angel.”

This 100-year-old frame house in the former capital Turku is merely one examples of the cozy Finnish Christmas atmosphere. The snow enveloping trees and roads in white makes the mood perfect.

According to their tradition, the Finn’s Christmas season begins the first Sunday of Advent when worshippers in the churches sing G.J. Vogler’s “Hosianna Hymn,” an event no one wants to miss. Advent concerts are also popular. But long before that comes the Bazaar when women meet and organize the event, and employees organize the “Pikkijoulu” for their employers, the “Small Christmas,” a special celebration.

With the onset of Advent, roads, streets, shops and stores dazzle with their light displays, as do the many evergreen trees set up everywhere. December 6 is a national holiday, and since 2008 is the 191st anniversary of Finland’s independence from Russia, no Finn would be caught without candles in the window.

Candle Procession on St. Lucia Day

December 12 is St. Lucia Day, named for the Sicilian virgin and martyr. The day was initially celebrated on December 13, primarily in Sweden; that’s why originally only Swedish-speaking Finns in Southern Finland commemorated the day. Everyone thought this to be the shortest day of the year that needed illuminating with candles, to dispel the gloom. A candlelight procession is customary. By tradition, one of the daughters in a family is chosen to wear white garb with a red sash that dons a crown of candles and offers sweets to family and friends, and sings songs with her brothers and sisters. In Turku, the Lucia bride, as she is known, takes a ride through town in a horse-drawn carriage.

That tradition is one of many the Finns have adopted from their neighboring countries. The German custom of lighting one candle per week in the four weeks preceding Christmas is another one, as is the use of a Christmas tree. The Finns decorate their trees with chains of paper flags and suspend a straw mobile from the ceiling. Handmade tree ornaments predominate, crafted either from wood or straw. Those who don’t create their own buy them at the Christmas Market. Along with these purchases goes the consumption of “Gloegi,” mulled, spiced wine augmented with raisins and almonds.