Finding Newfoundland: ‘Out Port’ Communities and ‘Kitchen Parties’

The high cliffs and grassy fields of Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve is a popular family destination in Newfoundland. (Ramon Cliff/Shutterstock)

There’s really, truly no other place on earth like Newfoundland. The world’s 16th largest island, stretching to the easternmost point in North America, is rugged, dramatic, and beautiful. Just the names alone—places called the Wreckhouse, ridges named the Blow Me Down Mountains, towns like Bay Bulls, and Grand Falls-Windsor—evoke powerful imagery of gorgeous remoteness, dark clouds sweeping the horizon, jagged peaks, thunderous waves, and winds so strong they’ll tear almost anything apart. Nature, endless, is all around you.

Over the course of several visits, I’ve come to love the place with all my heart. On a trip here, every day brings a new kind of magic. Beluga whales will play with you if you just come down to the dock. Seafood—crab, lobster, mussels—is served hot on your plate, fresh out of the bay. People became accustomed to helping one another over the centuries, and extend almost unbelievable warmth and friendliness (and help, when needed) to people from “away.” And yet, Newfoundland remains a lesser-known travel destination for Americans. So, here is a quick introduction.

Newfoundland’s history within Canada is completely unique. Together with its mainland portion (Labrador), it didn’t join Canada until 1949. Prior to that, it was a British colony and then a Dominion—much like Canada at the time. Newfoundlanders voted in a very tight 1948 referendum. With 52.3 percent of the vote approving the decision, they became the 10th and last province of Canada.

Built to withstand harsh coastal weather, Newfoundland’s homes are typically constructed with sturdy materials and techniques to withstand the rugged environment. (Ramon Cliff/Shutterstock)

The high cliffs and grassy fields of Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve are a popular family destination in Newfoundland. (Ramon Cliff/Shutterstock)

Finding Newfoundland

History here runs long and deep. While proud Canadians, Newfoundlanders maintain a distinct identity in their accents, dialects, humor, and songs. And it is one of the oldest parts of Canada in terms of European settlement.

The first Europeans to settle here were the Norse, who arrived on the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula around 1000 AD. They created a settlement of sod houses that’s now known as L’Anse aux Meadows. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site. But, for reasons unknown, they packed up and left. And it wasn’t until the second half of the 18th century that Europeans began settling here in earnest.

Initially, there was one reason men braved the treacherous North Atlantic, crossing a tumultuous ocean in search of a single thing: fish. Specifically, cod. Arriving in the late 15th century, the Italian explorer and navigator John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto), under commission from the English crown, set foot on the island. His crew reported so many fish off shore that you didn’t even need a net—you could simply scoop them up in a basket.

A hundred years later, fishermen said the cod remained so thick, you could scarcely row a boat through them. In an age before refrigeration, “salt fish” was king, a method to dry and preserve them for long voyages. Ships came from all over Europe—France, Spain, Portugal, and England. These sailors and fishermen left far-flung-sounding names all over the island, such as Rose Blanche, Quirpon, and Channel-Port aux Basques. And language, too.

Many of the residents of Bonne Bay still make a living by fishing. (Reimar/Shutterstock)

Driven by political upheavals and wars that had disturbed their regular fishing patterns, many migrated to Newfoundland from the west of England and southeastern Ireland. They established “out port” communities, connected to the rest of the world only by water. Their livelihood was dependent on the cod. Living in isolation, these communities preserved accents and dialects that were lost back in the old country.

If you visit a small village in Newfoundland today, you’ll still hear them. An expert once told me that if you went to a Shakespeare play around the time it was written, the lines would’ve been spoken in an accent you can still hear all the time in Newfoundland.

A Close-Knit Community

Life wasn’t always easy for those in the out ports. Long winters and harsh conditions persisted, even in the summer. But over the decades and centuries, a strong community culture developed. Neighbors needed neighbors. Without radio, television, or video games, you had to make your own fun, too.

So people would gather around a warm stove for “kitchen parties.” If you could sing or play, you’d perform a song. If you couldn’t, you would recite a passage of poetry or tell a rollicking story. Everyone contributed something to the gathering.

Newfoundland is known for its rich tradition of folk music, characterized by lively tunes and storytelling that reflect the island's history and culture. (David P. Lewis/Shutterstock)

To this day, Newfoundland retains a strong musical and storytelling culture. On some trips, I remember checking into small inns and seeing a guitar and accordion sitting out in the living room. “Who is playing tonight?” I’d ask, thinking maybe they’d hired a band or duo for some live music.“Hopefully you,” they would respond. And every time—every single time—someone picked up the instruments and played, while the rest of us danced.

Life Today

On July 2, 1992, life in Newfoundland changed forever. Cod stocks—long the lifeblood of this island—had been dwindling for decades. In response, the federal government announced a total moratorium on fishing for them. In a single moment, nearly 30,000 people in Newfoundland and Labrador lost their jobs.

And while the cod fishery has only just started to recover (the government announced in June 2024, for the first time, a very small but significant reopening), all those traditions developed over the centuries persist on this island. Newfoundlanders are some of the most resilient people on earth. So they continue to sing, dance, and extend warmth and welcome to their visitors.

It’s a place everyone needs to experience at least once. Cruise through an inland fjord at Western Brook Pond, where waterfalls tumble from impossibly high cliffs on both sides. Visit the tapestry in Conche, which, inspired by the priceless Bayeux Tapestry in England, tells the story of Newfoundland’s French Shore. See the mantle of the earth’s crust thrust to the surface at the Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park.

Western Brook Pond shines in the sunset at Gros Morne National Park, showcasing the fjord formed by glaciers. (Curtis Watson/Shutterstock)

Heart’s Content Lighthouse has overlooked the Atlantic Ocean at Heart’s Content, Newfoundland, since 1871. (Ramon Cliff/Shutterstock)

You can sit on the beach and enjoy a seafood boil-up, or ride an ATV through mountain landscapes and maybe encounter a moose. Hike coastal trails and travel back in time by roaming around centuries-old historic villages. Talk to the fishermen after a day on the water as they haul out crab and lobster, unloading their catch at countless harbors in charming little villages. Feel the warmth of the people—and start planning your trip back.

When You Go

Fly: The international airport in St. John’s, the provincial capital (YYT), is the busiest in Newfoundland, but you can also fly to the western side of the island and land at Deer Lake (YDF). In both cases, most flights come from other Canadian cities, so if you’re coming from the United States, you’ll probably connect in Toronto, Montreal, or Halifax.

Getting Around: Newfoundland is a much bigger island than people often assume. Distances between towns and villages can be fairly major, and a rental car is really required if you’re planning on getting outside of St. John’s. That way, you can find fascinating, small places down little coastal roads. The Avis location at the airport in St. John’s offers good service.

Stay: In downtown St. John’s, JAG Hotel offers big, super-comfortable rooms, friendly service, and a cool rock and roll theme. It’s within easy walking distance of the shops and restaurants on Water Street and the many bars on George Street. The harbor and the dramatic rise of Signal Hill just beyond it are also close by.

Take Note: Like the rest of the country, Newfoundland uses the Canadian dollar, which is currently trading at an advantageous rate for American visitors. At the present time, 1 USD will buy you 1.36 CAD, meaning both Newfoundland and the rest of Canada are a rather good deal right now.