Look up! My one bit of advice for visitors to Cape May, New Jersey. That’s where so many of the city’s delights are to be found. Let me explain.
But first, a little history. Cape May, New Jersey, the nation’s oldest seashore resort, has been catering to vacationers since pre-Revolutionary War days. Later the shady tree-lined streets and colorful homes of Cape May became the playground of presidents. Ulysses S. Grant, Franklin Pierce, James Buchanan, Chester Arthur, and Benjamin Harrison all sought refuge there from the humidity of Washington, D.C., summers.
Although the town grew beyond its colonial trappings, it became stuck in the late-19th century Victorian era, when it was rebuilt after being demolished by fire for the third time. Thankfully that is where it has remained. With more than 600 structures, most of which have been refurbished, Cape May—the whole city—has been named a National Historic Landmark, the only city in the United States to be wholly designated as a National Historic District.
Street after street and house after house enchant, charm, and captivate visitors intrigued by the intricate details that distinguish one from the other. Despite the similarity in architectural style, there is infinite variety in their elegant presentations.
Most of the homes, in multiple shades of browns, greens and mauves, sport some strange appendage on the roof alternately identified as a turret, cupola, gazebo, or belvedere. This is where the looking-up advice comes in handy: So many of the interesting adornments—the extra little touches—are near the roof. They are also everywhere else.
Wraparound porches adorned with decorative balustrades and whimsically designed gingerbreading give each structure its personal charm and distinction. Bay windows are surrounded by individualized brackets and barge boards that vary in size, detail, and decor.
The diversity of the slits, slices, slats, and slots that contribute to the intricacy of design defining each structure is bound to fascinate even those who have never before given a single thought to architectural motif. As one guide summed up the Victorian philosophy: “If a little is good, more is better, and too much is still not enough.”
The Washington Street Mall, a pedestrian walkway in the center of town, is reminiscent of what a beach town boardwalk might have been like in the 1890s. The many outdoor benches, cafes, and quaint shops decked out in their Victorian finery reflect an earlier, easier era. Once again, just the presence of individual shops is such a welcome antidote to the sameness of suburban malls.
To further personalize the transformation in time, plan to take a walk on Hughes Street after dark. Walking down the quiet street, its only illumination provided by gas lamps and occasionally the moon, you'll be able to picture yourself returning to your turn-of-the-century summer home. This was a time when life was simpler, the pace was slower and the streets safer.
Welded to history, Cape May now has something new to celebrate. The Harriet Tubman Museum opened in 2021 in a neighborhood that was not only the center of the African American community but also played an outsized role in the abolitionist movement of the mid-19th century—spearheaded by Harriet Tubman herself. After attaining freedom, Tubman worked as a Cape May hotel maid to earn the funds to finance her journeys farther south to help free more slaves. The museum site, built around 1799, was the center of an active anti-slavery movement at the time. The Underground Railroad ran through this Cape May neighborhood with Tubman and her allies as the conductors. I couldn’t help but wonder why it took them so long to honor this remarkable heritage.
For bird-watching addicts, nearly 400 species of birds during peak migration periods are just waiting to be added to “sightings” lists. With Cape May listed as one of the top 10 birding hot spots in North America, there’s ample diversity in terms of habitats and feathered creatures.
But Cape May’s singularity doesn’t stop there. Many people have heard of the “Sanibel Stoop,” the term attributed to seashell seekers along Florida’s coastal Island. But do you know about the “Diamond Droop”? That’s what you get when hunting for Cape May diamonds along the Delaware Bay at Sunset Beach. Despite its local popularity, the sport is little known outside the area, and it’s one the whole family can play.
Here’s the scoop on the droop: Cape May diamonds are semiprecious quartz stones that resemble cubic zirconia “diamonds.” They are found in abundance along the water’s edge and are fairly easy to recognize. Dull and cloudy when dry, they become bright and translucent when wet. Jewelry made from the stone has been featured on the QVC television shopping network, but you don’t have to tune in to get some. Take your diamond discoveries to the Sunset Beach Gift Shop and they'll tell you how you can have a brooch or pair of earrings made to order.
