Elegance in Wine

Wine trend is constantly changing and currently, low alcohol levels are the trend.
Elegance in Wine
Mocktails are growing to be more popular than alcoholic beverages. Rimma Bondarenko/Shutterstock
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Sales of wine and many other alcoholic beverages are declining rapidly in the United States in a repeat of a softness in this industry that occurred exactly 22 years ago.

Downturns in wine sales occur on a cyclical basis in the wine business. They are often accompanied (as in today’s scenario) by a prohibitionist movement in which advocates of abstention spew questionable health warnings.

There is one new fact in today’s decline in alcoholic beverage sales: Alcoholic beverage buyers seem to be getting tired of too much alcohol in their lives. Low- and no-alcohol beverages are gaining traction with many buyers.

Mocktails are all the rage.

This has already begun impacting the way wines are being produced. And although most of the new styles of wine that are now being explored will not be visible on shelves for at least a year, the trend is already headed in that direction.

As consumers seek wines with lower alcohols, some things already are evident, such as an increase in sales of sparkling wines, most of which have lower levels; an increase in German Riesling sales, many of which have alcohol levels as low as 7 percent; and an effort by California winemakers to make wines with lower alcohols.

One technique that has been used with rewarding results is simply to reduce alcohol levels by adding judicious amounts of water. If done carefully, flavors are not compromised and actually may be improved when the alcohol levels drop from 15 percent to 13 percent.

(Expensive California red wines have always had slightly higher alcohols. In the last 30 years, average alcohol levels have risen from about 13.5 percent to about 15 percent—or more. Although it is possible to make excellent red wine with lower alcohol, some high-end wine buyers are impressed by what high alcohols do for a wine’s “sweetness” or richness.)

New technologies have also been employed to reduce alcohols, including an exceptional machine called the spinning cone. Several large wineries use this device to reduce alcohols by up to 2 percent (occasionally even more) and produce wines of better balance.

Global climate change has negative effects for those seeking lower alcohols. Higher temperatures produce more sugar in grapes, and more sugar equals higher alcohols.

To keep sugars slightly lower, many grape growers are retrofitting their vineyards’ trellising systems to create larger leaf canopies. Greater shading keeps sugars from advancing rapidly.

Additionally, new strains of yeast have been developed that theoretically can ferment grape juice to dryness and at the same time produce lower alcohol than traditional yeasts.

However, no yeasts have been produced that do this efficiently because chemistry gets in the way! Although it’s possible to use a modern yeast that gives some lower alcohol, the usual result is for only about a 1.5 percent loss, say from 16 percent to 14.5 percent.

And 14.5 percent is still a lot of alcohol!

Wine of the Week: 2023 Mouton Cadet (Baron Philippe de Rothschild), Bordeaux ($16)

It had been nearly a decade since I tried this simple but reliable red Bordeaux blend with cabernet as its main grape. For a period in the early 2000s, the wine seemed to be rather ordinary. And other red blends seemed to be a little more interesting. But this brand has come back strongly recently and now is made only from organic grapes. I really enjoyed the regional distinctiveness of it, with real cabernet character displaying its personality in a dry but not austere finish. Prices for many modest European red blends have recently risen over $20, and this can be found closer to $14.
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Dan Berger
Dan Berger
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To find out more about Sonoma County resident Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate webpage at www.creators.com.
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