Eavesdrop in trendy wine bars, as I frequently do, and you hear drinkers dissing ever-popular pinot grigio as so bland and boring, lowbrow and déclassé that only those who don’t know any better would order a glass.
Or consider the image baggage of California zinfandel. One of my European friends repeats the trope that this all-American red is undrinkable—gooey, rough, and unctuously thick—and white zin has long been maligned as the vino people imbibe when they don’t like wine.
And remember the movie “Sideways,” in which main character Miles, who equates pinot noir with love, ranted so mercilessly against merlot that it took years for the grape to recover positive attention in the market?
Recently I started making a list of wine categories with a bad reputation. On it are not only pinot grigio and zinfandel, but also gewürztraminer, Beaujolais Nouveauand just about all sweet wines, including moscato, Sauternes, port, muscadet, and lambrusco, among many others.
Natural wine is less polarizing than it used to be, but it still has plenty of detractors. More on that in a future column. One reason for wine disdain is that people often judge a grape or wine type through the lens of the worst mass-market examples. (Looking at you, pinot grigio!)
Another is fashion. Two decades ago, rosé would have been on the list. At one point, dislike of buttery California and Australian chardonnays gave rise to the Anything But Chardonnay movement. And Bordeaux bashing was the norm among New York sommeliersnot so long ago.
Since then, rosé has become the symbol of summer, new styles of more balanced chardonnay are driving buzz, and Bordeaux seems like a bargain compared with Burgundy.
Scorning sweet wines continues because so many people have swallowed (no pun intended) the idea that only dry wines are worth drinking. And you might also be pleasantly surprised how much the quality of wine in some other shunned categories (wines from eastern Europe, for example) has improved.
Pinot Grigio
The case: You think you know pinot grigio, but you’re wrong. The wine that built its success in the US, Santa Margherita, inspired a flood of cheap supermarket vino with zero character. But top producers in northern Italy, Alsace (France), Oregon, and New Zealand craft exciting wines in one of two basic styles from this highly versatile grape. Those labeled pinot grigio lean northern Italian with fresh, lively, crisp wines that have floral aromas, whereas the full-bodied and richly textured versions labeled pinot gris are found in Alsace and Oregon.Wines to Try
2023 Marco Felluga Mongris Pinot Grigio ($24) This affordable wine from Italy’s Collio appellation shows intense aromas of citrus, apple, and acacia flowers. There’s depth, structure and character to its fresh fruity flavors.Zinfandel
The case: Although the grape is native to Croatia, it’s an essential part of California’s wine heritage. What put people off was a style history that includes monster reds made with overripe raisiny fruit and whopping 17 percent alcohol levels as well as sweet “blush” bottlings labeled white zinfandel. Some zins were always balanced and complex, though, and the recent focus on ones from historic vineyards has helped promote that style.Wines to Try
2021 Ridge Vineyards Pagani Ranch Zinfandel ($58) This pioneering California winery is lauded for its great cabernet, but it also makes terrific old-vine zinfandels. This powerful, concentrated one from an historic Sonoma vineyard is also fresh and lively, with licorice notes.Beaujolais Nouveau
The case: Light-bodied, flirty, and fruity, this French red from gamay grapes is bottled soon after harvest and released the third Thursday of November. Global marketing of annual “Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivé” celebrations featuring low-quality examples eventually made it feel like a gimmick wine. The trend for lighter, chillable reds means it’s time to reconsider those from the best domaines.Wines to Try
2024 Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Nouveau ($21) Purple and fragrant, fresh and juicy, the Nouveau from the Dupeuble family always comes with dark berry fruit notes and bright purity.Moscato
The case: Forget the sickeningly sweet, bubbly wines that fueled moscato madness a decade ago. A fragrant, charming, gently fizzy, and fruity-sweet moscato d’Asti from Piedmont with a bowl of fresh strawberries will put you in a good mood, something many of us need right now. With its low alcohol (only about 5 percent!), it’s an ideal brunch wine. And that’s only one version of the style.Wines to Try
2022 Saracco Moscato d’Asti ($17) This wine is always a reference point for the grape, with vibrant orange blossom and white peach aromas, citrusy sweet flavors, and fine, delicate bubbles.Gewürztraminer
The case: This polarizing, flamboyant grape, native to Alsace but grown all over Europe and in the New World, invokes a love-or-hate reaction. Yes, the wines can smell and taste like perfumed soap, but the best are complex and lychee-scented with notes of clove and nutmeg. Dry or sweet, they’re surprisingly good with smoked salmon, stinky washed-rind cheeses, melon and prosciutto, and duck curry.Wines to Try
2023 Corison Corazón Moon Mountain Gewürztraminer ($40) Cathy Corison is known for her elegant Napa cabernets. She also taps an old vineyard in Sonoma for this bone-dry rich white with orange peel and mineral flavors.2019 Trimbach Gewürztraminer ($24) This dry classic from Alsace has bright rose and allspice aromas and exceptional balance, with lively acidity to perk up its richness and power.
