Deck Maintenance 101: Don’t Replace It, Restore It

Deck Maintenance 101: Don’t Replace It, Restore It
The backyard wood deck is one of the most versatile spaces in the home; it’s the site of birthday parties, family cookouts, al fresco candlelit dinners, and a great place to simply relax. Olesia Bilkei/Shutterstock
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The backyard wood deck is one of the most versatile spaces in the home; it’s the site of birthday parties, family cookouts, al fresco candlelit dinners, and a great place to simply relax. With the addition of a fire pit, a portable fireplace, or a patio heater, it can be used year-round.

Be careful during winter months when an icy wood deck can be quite hazardous; you may want to consider adding some grip-strip tape. Also, freezing temperatures can cause wood decks to warp and crack. Therefore, it’s extremely important to keep a deck clear of snow and ice. Using salt to remove ice may seem the easiest solution, but it can dry out the wood. Don’t reach for the sidewalk shovel either, as it can gouge or scratch the deck. Instead, use a broom, which won’t harm the wood.

If the wood has begun to show its age, or even if it hasn’t but isn’t properly sealed and protected, it’s probably time to refinish it as soon as the temperature no longer drops below 50 degrees.

In many cases, pressure washing with just water will be enough to clean a wood deck. (tab62/Shutterstock)
In many cases, pressure washing with just water will be enough to clean a wood deck. tab62/Shutterstock

The Inspection

Clear the deck completely and inspect it closely for signs of rot, termites, or other wood damage. Pay particular attention to areas that are darkened (an indicator of rot), white (a sign of fungus), or splintered. A flathead screwdriver comes in handy for poking into any suspicious spots to test the integrity of the wood.

If possible, check underneath as well. Inspect the entire structure—framing, joists, and footers—to make sure there is no sign of movement, warping, gaps, or severe cracks. Keep an eye out for the signs of pest damage to include borer holes, termite droppings, or nests. Replace all bad boards and tighten any loose screws or other hardware. If needed, add additional screws that grab new wood.

Deck maintenance includes inspecting the wood for damage, stripping it of its existing stain, and reapplying stain or sealer.(LesPalenik/Shutterstock)
Deck maintenance includes inspecting the wood for damage, stripping it of its existing stain, and reapplying stain or sealer.LesPalenik/Shutterstock

Proper Prep

Unless you’re using the exact same brand of stain and color that’s already on the deck, you will need to completely remove the existing stain. If you’re using the same stain, simply follow the manufacturer’s preparation instructions. Otherwise, get out the pressure washer or rent one. Use the lowest pressure possible, 500 to 600 psi (pounds per square inch) for soft woods such as cedar and pine, and up to 1,200 psi for hard woods. Be careful to not spray into the grain, as the powerful blast of water can strip it out. A fan tip with a 40- to 60-degree spread is ideal; the more common rotating tip also works but requires more caution. When in doubt, practice in an inconspicuous area.

In many cases, pressure washing with just water will be enough to clean a wood deck. But for badly darkened or mildew-stained areas, you’ll want to use a chemical cleaner and brightener made for pressure washers. First, make sure that your pressure washer has a cleaning intake attachment. If it doesn’t, you can apply the cleaner with any common garden sprayer and follow up with the brightener in its own separate garden sprayer.

Don’t be tempted to save money and use your fertilizer sprayer, as no matter how well you clean the sprayer, any cleaner or brightener residue might kill your plants when you use the sprayer to apply fertilizer. Wait 15 to 20 minutes (or as directed) after applying the cleaner and/or brightener and follow up with the pressure washer.

For the best finish, sand the entire deck, using a random orbital sander to avoid leaving power sander marks. This lowers any areas raised by the water and opens up the wood’s pores so it accepts the stain or sealer better. If your deck is in very good condition, you may be able to get away with spot sanding.

Decisions, Decisions

Stain or sealer: That is the question. If you’ve got a lovely cedar deck or other handsome wood, you’ll want to show off its warmth, character, and natural grain by applying a clear sealer. It must be noted that a clear sealer will break down more quickly than a pigmented finish, meaning it will need to be reapplied more often. The rule of thumb is the more pigment in the finish, the longer it will last.
Colored stains are perfect for hiding less-than-ideal results or changing the color of your deck. They’re available as lightly pigmented and semi-transparent, both of which allow some grain to show through, or solid colors that will hide almost all flaws. Whatever you choose, don’t be cheap; you want a product that repels water, contains a mildewcide, and protects against UV ray damage.

Application Time

Once upon a time, homeowners waited nine months to apply a sealer or stain to allow the wood to thoroughly dry to accept more sealer/stain. However, this meant the wood was weathering all that time. Today, application is done one or two weeks after installation, with a second coat the following year. Make sure the temperature won’t drop below 50 degrees F and that rain isn’t forecasted for the next few days.

A paint roller used by hand or on a pole is ideal for getting a smooth, even finish. Choose a polystyrene roller with a 1/4 to 3/16th inch nap for a smooth deck, or a 3/8 to 1/2 inch nap for rough or textured surfaces. A pad applicator attached to a pole and paint sprayer also works. In all cases, a paintbrush is needed for cutting in corners and trimming areas between boards and all hard-to-reach areas. Allow to dry as directed, apply a second coat if needed, and then enjoy your revitalized deck!

A paint roller used by hand or on a pole is ideal for getting a smooth, even finish. (kuzmaphoto/Shutterstock)
A paint roller used by hand or on a pole is ideal for getting a smooth, even finish. kuzmaphoto/Shutterstock

Composite Care

Early-generation composite decks require more care than the currently “capped” designs; here’s how to keep both looking their best.

1st-Gen Facts

A pressure washer is too aggressive for early composites, and chemical cleaners formulated for modern capped composite decking are too harsh. Check with the deck manufacturer, or when in doubt, try 1/4 cup Dawn liquid dish detergent in a gallon of water.

Modern Care

Modern composite decking has a PVC shell to protect the composite core. It can be cleaned with a pressure washer with a fan-pattern nozzle up to 3,100 psi. Remove leaves and other common stains with a deck brightener; use vinegar for hard water spots.

Board Thoughts

Composite decks may be low maintenance, but they’re not bulletproof. Deeply scuffed, scraped, or stained boards should be replaced. The process is the same as with wood. Use a low-tooth count carbide-tipped saw blade for smooth cuts.
Sandy Lindsey
Sandy Lindsey
Author
Sandy Lindsey is an award-winning writer who covers home, gardening, DIY projects, pets, and boating. She has two books with McGraw-Hill.
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