Few things negatively impact curb appeal as much as a cracked or crumbling sidewalk, walkway, or driveway. Breathe easy! Most concrete fixes can be DIY projects, including porches, backyard patios, planter boxes, and vertical patches on the home’s exterior.
Don’t procrastinate, though, as harsh winter weather will only make things worse. Fall boasts the ideal temperature range for concrete repairs—between 45 degrees F and 75 degrees F. You also want the property to look its best for the family and friends stopping by during the holiday season.
For those lucky enough to have concrete in great condition, it may only need to be sealed so that it doesn’t absorb water and liquid and deteriorate over time. Give it a good pressure wash first, because this not only removes dust and debris and allows the sealer to adhere better, but also exposes small cracks and other hidden damage that need to be repaired. Let it dry completely, then apply a high-quality concrete sealer, available tinted or clear.
Perfect Finish
Fine surface cracks, particularly on newly-poured concrete, may mean that it simply cured too quickly. These are normally cosmetic and are not a sign of serious structural damage. Simply apply a thin layer of a resurfacing product with a trowel to the affected area, and feather (seamlessly blend) the edge into the existing concrete.Cracks? Potholes? No Problem
Cracks smaller than one-quarter inch can be easily filled with a flexible-formula liquid masonry crack filler, available in handy squeeze bottles and caulk tubes. Clean out the crack thoroughly, using a screwdriver to remove any loose concrete or repair material. Pressure wash the driveway if it hasn’t been done already. Let it dry thoroughly, then fill until even with the existing concrete. Smooth if necessary.For deeper, but thin cracks, or those one-half inch wide or slightly larger, insert a flexible backer rod first. This may require opening up the crack slightly to fit the backer rod securely. Then use a trowel to apply a pre-mix or mix-it-yourself concrete patching compound, pressing it in until it makes firm contact with the backer rod. Then fill until it is level with the existing concrete.
Cracks two inches or larger—particularly those with large pieces of crumbling concrete that need to be removed—may require cleaning down to the hard-packed construction sand (driveway) or dirt (walkway) below and re-pouring (filling) with a patching compound that contains gravel.
To simplify matters, mix the compound in a 5-gallon bucket, using a paddle mixer that works with an electric drill. Press in firmly until it is level with the surrounding concrete, and scrape off the excess. This works for potholes too. Use a sand mix for small holes that do not need to be cleaned down to the substrate, or a gravel mix for larger or deeper holes.
Vertical Work and Edges
Most half-inch vertical cracks, whether on the house wall, steps, or a concrete planter box, can be quickly repaired with a concrete repair or polyurethane sealant in a caulk tube. They will not need the foam backer, and they’re not subject to the same freeze/thaw and weight-bearing requirements of a driveway, walkway, sidewalk, or patio. Cracks smaller than a quarter inch should be widened with a chisel and filled with a textured acrylic caulk.Cracked, pitted, and crumbling edges of steps, curbs, and porches may require a frame to temporarily hold the repair in place as it cures. This can be as simple as placing a 2x4 or piece of cut-to-size plywood running along the outer vertical edge of the project area, held in place with bricks. Clean the cracked, pitted, or crumbling concrete thoroughly, and set the frame in place. Mix a vinyl patching compound (this replaces the need to mix regular mortar with a bonding agent), tamp it into place to eliminate air pockets, and smooth it to the level of the existing concrete. Save some mix to make up a small batch for any minor cosmetic fixes that may be needed after the frame is removed.