Keep your jackets and mittens handy—even in the middle of the night.
The cold doesn’t deter any of the more than 250 people aboard. So anxious are guests to get photographs that the ship makes announcements—even in the middle of the night—when the Northern Lights are visible. They’ve flown in many cases more than 24 hours for the experience from 18 countries, including Australia, Malaysia, India, Singapore, as well as all over Europe. Americans are in the minority, it seems. Many are traveling with grown or nearly grown kids, though there is one family from London with a baby, all checking off a trip on their bucket list.
Sooner rather than later for Kim Plummer, traveling with her family from Australia. She explained she is being treated for breast cancer and has long wanted to see the Northern Lights. So here was the Plummer family, including mom and dad, three daughters ages 16 to 21, two boyfriends, and 16-year-old Phoebe’s good friend. Another plus: A white Christmas and plenty of fun in the snow for the Aussies.
While Grace Wong has loved the chase for the Northern Lights, as well as seeing them (a week until we see them), her granddaughter Isabelle Shee, 9, is much more excited about the snow since they live in Singapore where there isn’t any, she explained. “I made snow angels and threw snowballs at my mom,” she said giggling.
The sun is expected to reach the peak of its 11-year activity cycle this winter, which means more intense and frequent Northern Lights, prompting many to make this trip now. Scientists predict the Solar Maximum in 2024 and 2025 will result in the most frequent and impressive Northern Lights in more than a decade. The next Solar Maximum won’t be until 2036.
But for Norwegians, who live above the Arctic Circle where the sun doesn’t get above the horizon from November into mid-January, the Northern Lights are no big deal. “Honestly, we get more excited about thunderstorms that are rare here,” said Kira Caurp, one of our guides as we went dog sledding in Tromso, which boasts the world’s most northern university and big hospital, and is a hip, urban city whose history as a market center dates back to the late 18th century.
Suite passengers (be forewarned that regular cabins are small, though there are plenty of comfortable lounge areas) are gifted wind and waterproof jackets, Norwegian sweaters and hats, though the shop on board has everything you might need, even spikes for the bottom of your boots to keep you from slipping on the ice. The all-Scandinavian staff can talk to guests knowledgeably about where we are going and what life is like above the Arctic Circle, like walking to school in the dark and jumping out of second-floor windows into deep snow. “I didn’t know any different,” said Hotel Director Jill Sandvik, who grew up in Honningsvag with just 2, 500 people and no daylight between Nov. 21 and early January.
For many, it is a culinary journey as well. The MS Trollfjord does a spectacular job showcasing Norwegian dishes available from local providers (halibut, herring, cod), local cheeses, dry-aged meats—complete with wine pairings (more than 50 choices available in Rost, the fine dining room on the ship ). Twenty-five are available in Flora and Brasserie Arran, inspired by the indigenous Sami people where the menu includes dry aged beef, reindeer stew, and dry-aged halibut, one of the most delicious dishes I’ve ever enjoyed. Arran is the Sami word for the fire at the heart of the teepee. “It’s storytelling through food,” suggested Eindride Lauritzen, the food and beverage manager who notes that every menu details the history of the dishes being served at that meal. There are also Coastal Kitchen demonstrations. (Who knew it was so easy to make Gravlax?).
Visitors don’t always appreciate that the Northern Lights can appear and disappear in moments, noted Ada Jerzyk, our expedition leader for the first half of our two-week journey past the Arctic Circle and then back down the coast to Bergen. “They can go from nothing to spectacular in moments.” That’s why she suggests guests be willing to jump out of bed in the middle of the night, jackets in hand.
Grace Wong, echoing others on board, was thrilled once she saw the Northern Lights two nights in a row. But just as important, she added, was sharing the experience in the Far North with her daughter and granddaughter.
“You have to be patient and there is stress,” she conceded, adding “The time together is worth it. … And the love grows.”
