There’s no one right way to cook a Thanksgiving turkey. But some ways are certainly better than others.
The team at America’s Test Kitchen (ATK) has dedicated countless hours to figuring out exactly what works well and why, applying the rigorous, science-backed approach to cooking that has kept the show running and empowering home cooks for 25 years. To celebrate its silver anniversary, ATK recently released the “America’s Test Kitchen 25th Anniversary Cookbook: 500 Recipes That Changed the Way America Cooks,” showcasing favorite recipes from the very first show to its 25th season—including one roast turkey recipe that has endured as a fan favorite.
With Thanksgiving around the corner, Keith Dresser, executive food editor of Cook’s Illustrated and a familiar face on the show, shared his top, test kitchen-approved secrets for success.
Keith Dresser, the executive food editor of Cook's Illustrated and a cast member on "America’s Test Kitchen." America's Test Kitchen/Daniel J. van Ackere
Keith Dresser: The biggest thing I’ve learned over the years is that pretreating your turkey is absolutely key. Pretreating a turkey through wet or dry brine (salting) enhances moisture retention, flavor, and tenderness. Brining does a better job of infusing flavors and keeping the meat juicy, while dry brining promotes better browning and crisp skin. Both methods allow for greater control over the final product, resulting in a more delicious turkey.
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The Epoch Times: Are you personally team wet or dry brine?
Mr. Dresser: I’m team dry brine. For me, dry brining is simpler and requires less preparation space. I also find that it enhances the browning of the skin due to less water being absorbed.
The Epoch Times: Can you share a most memorable anecdote from testing over the years?
Mr. Dresser: I’ve eaten so much turkey over the years. I can remember one test about 15 years ago where we stuffed lard underneath the skin in order to “baste” the meat and keep it moist. The result was horrible. The turkey tasted like ham and the meat was still dry.
The Epoch Times: What are your essential, test kitchen-approved tools for putting together Thanksgiving dinner?
Mr. Dresser: Invest in a reliable instant-read thermometer. The easiest way to avoid overcooking your turkey is using a thermometer to monitor the internal temperature accurately. You can also use a thermometer to check to see if your pumpkin pie is done!
The Epoch Times: What are your favorite time- and sanity-saving tips and hacks?
Mr. Dresser: Plan ahead, both with shopping and cooking. Avoid the hysteria at the supermarket and shop for shelf-stable and relatively nonperishable items (potatoes, squash, carrots, and so forth) a couple weeks in advance. Make as much as possible ahead of time. Pie dough, cranberry sauce, pureed soups, and even gravy can be made ahead of time and frozen.
The Epoch Times: Let’s talk turkey—what are the most common mistakes to avoid?
Mr. Dresser: One thing I see often is cooks not resting the turkey long enough. Give the meat 45 minutes to reabsorb all those juices. If you cut too soon, the juice dribbles out onto the cutting board—you want all those juices to stay in the meat. And don’t cover the turkey during its rest; it just makes the skin soggy.
The Epoch Times: What should home cooks look for when buying their bird?
Mr. Dresser: Buy frozen. Most “fresh” turkeys at the supermarket are stored around freezing temperatures. In these conditions, the turkeys can thaw and refreeze, repeatedly. All that contracting and expansion of the ice in the turkey meat can damage the cell membranes, resulting in a dry and mushy turkey. Choose instead to purchase a frozen turkey (we recommend heritage turkeys, if you can find them) and thaw it yourself, just once.
The Epoch Times: In the 25th-anniversary cookbook, there’s a recipe for turkey roasted on a preheated baking stone. What was the thinking behind this recipe, and why does it work so well?
Mr. Dresser: That’s probably our most popular turkey recipe. The idea behind the use of the pizza stone is that the stone absorbs heat and delivers it through the pan to the turkey’s legs and thighs, which need to cook to a higher temperature than the breast meat. The pizza stone is like a turbo boost for turkey. We tried other items, like an overturned rimmed baking sheet, but nothing else provides the heat boost that is necessary for success.
The Epoch Times: For home cooks who don’t have a pizza stone, what’s your next-best recommendation for a failproof cooking method?
Mr. Dresser: Our stuffed spatchcock turkey. Spatchcocking, or removing the backbone from the turkey, takes a little work, but cooking the turkey flat in the roasting pan allows the rich dark meat and delicate white meat to cook at similar rates.
The Epoch Times: Any other favorite tips and hacks for turkey success?
Mr. Dresser: Consider cooking turkey parts. I rarely cook a whole bird these days. Instead, I purchase turkey parts and cook them using different methods. For instance, I'll braise the legs and grill-roast the breast. Sure, you won’t have that impressive whole turkey that fills the table, but cooking parts takes less time, and you don’t have to worry about the disparate cooking times.
The Epoch Times: Assuming the worst has happened—do you have a favorite fix for saving dry turkey meat?
Mr. Dresser: Unfortunately, I don’t think there is a perfect fix. You can try drizzling the sliced turkey with some warm chicken or turkey broth before serving, but it’s more of a topical treatment. Gravy can also help to provide moisture.
The Epoch Times: How about saving lumpy gravy?
Mr. Dresser: I would suggest straining the gravy. Pour the gravy through a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl and use a rubber spatula to gently press the gravy through and discard the lumps.
The Epoch Times: What sides are non-negotiable on your own Thanksgiving table?
Mr. Dresser: I have to have mashed potatoes on the table. I like a smooth mashed potato, so I always use a food mill (the same one my grandmother used!). I also like to replace some of the milk (or cream) with some sour cream for a little bit of tang.
The Epoch Times: And for dessert?
Mr. Dresser: Pumpkin pie is my family’s favorite. Our pumpkin pie uses both pumpkin and candied yams in the filling for an intense pumpkin flavor. It also par-cooks the pumpkin puree for a dense, creamy texture. Finally, cooking the filled pie slowly avoids any graininess. It’s more work than back-of-the-can recipes, but it’s totally worth it.
The Epoch Times: Are there any final words of advice you would like to leave to home cooks?
Mr. Dresser: Embrace imperfections. Mistakes are inevitable in the kitchen, even for professionals. What’s important is to have fun and enjoy being with friends and family.
RECIPE: Easier Roast Turkey and Gravy
