In Malaysia, the mamak stall is more than a place to eat; it’s a slice of the country’s soul, a microcosm of Malaysian society.
These humble stalls, bustling with life, are the truest representation of the country’s “melting pot”—a place where cultures blend to create something uniquely Malaysian.
Originating from Indian Muslims who came from the Madras Presidency in the 19th century, the mamaks initially thrived in trading and gradually became an integral part of Malaysian culture.
These early mamak ventures began with the mamak hawkers transporting food on bicycles, poles balanced across their shoulders, each end carrying baskets brimming with rice and curry dishes. These hawkers gradually transformed their operations, moving from the bicycle to the modest stability of small stalls.
Their food, a tantalising array of dishes like murtabak, roti canai, mee goreng, and nasi kandar, is a daily staple in the Malaysian diet. And then there’s teh tarik—a frothy, sweet tea that’s a national favourite.
These stalls dot the Malaysian landscape, particularly in urban hubs like Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Johor. Open around the clock, the mamak stalls stand resilient, weathering sun and rain.
They’re not just eateries; they’re communal spaces where people from all walks of life gather.
Instead of a sterile pub, Malaysians choose the vibrant atmosphere of the mamak stalls, where foldable tables and chairs spill onto the streets, sometimes commandeering entire parking spaces.
Right in the sizzle of the griddle and the clatter of dishes, is the heartbeat of Malaysia. It is here you can watch the delicate art of making roti canai as the Mamak’s skilled hands knead, flip, and fry dough to perfection.
It is here you can taste the Mamak-style prawn sambal. This, for me, the best dish on the planet.
Sambal is a fusion of Malay and Nyonya cuisine.
Nyonya cuisine, or as it’s broadly known, Peranakan cuisine, stands as a testament to the adaptability and ingenuity of early Chinese immigrants.
Faced with the unfamiliarity of local ingredients and the absence of their native flavours, these culinary pioneers did not succumb to despair but instead embraced innovation.
They melded Chinese cooking techniques with an array of spices from Malaysia, Indonesia, and beyond with most Malaysian homes now serving up a sambal for lunch with steamed rice.
The main ingredients featured in this dish are chilli paste, red onions, shrimp paste, tamarind juice, and seasoning.
The below recipe was shared with me in 1998 by a local chef at a cooking class in Penang.
Mamak-Style Prawn Sambal
Ingredients- 10 macadamia nuts
- 6 dried chillies chopped or 1/2 tablespoon chilli powder
- 1 teaspoon shrimp paste, dry roasted
- 2 Spanish onions chopped
- 2 centimetre (about 0.7 inch) length tamarind
- 1/2 cup water
- 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) prawns
- 2 peeled cooked potatoes cut into 8 pieces each
- 2 tablespoons mustard oil
- 1 cup coconut cream
- Sugar to taste
- Salt to taste
- 1 tablespoon Malaysian curry powder* (or normal curry powder)
- 1/2 cup desiccated coconut toasted and finely pounded
- 3 curry leaf stalks chopped
- 2 tablespoons dried ground coriander seeds
- 1 tablespoon dried ground cumin seeds
- 3/4 tablespoon dried ground fennel seeds
- 1/2 tablespoon chilli powder
- 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
- 1/2 teaspoon cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon cardamom
- 1/2 teaspoon pepper
Blend the macadamias, chillies, shrimp paste, and onions together in a food processor/thermomix or mortar and pestle until well ground.
Grind the tamarind and combine with the water to form a juice (you need 1/2 cup/125 ml of juice).
Shell and devein the prawns retaining the tails. Fry the potatoes until they are crisp.
Heat the oil on medium heat in a wok and fry the ground mixture until aromatic.
Add the coconut cream, sugar, salt, and tamarind juice.
Bring to the boil and cook until the liquid reduces by two thirds.
Add prawns, curry powder, potato, and cook on medium heat, adding oil only if the mixture becomes too dry (this is a dry curry dish).
Remove from the heat and serve with rice, roti or even as a sandwich spread.
