Writing a weekly recipe column can be a lot of fun. You get to eat so many foods you might not otherwise have tried and then take your readers along for the ride.
Yet it also can be vexing because taste is so personal. You never really know until you count the clicks and shares or read the comments what’s going to resonate with family, friends and other aspiring cooks who look to you for inspiration each week—or what’s going to fall as flat as the proverbial pancake.
Thankfully, we tallied many more successes than failures this past year and a few recipes were even runaway hits. That makes me so happy to know I’ve helped put a great lunch, dinner or dessert on the table for a hungry reader.
I’m also delighted to report that our most popular recipe of 2023 had some very personal roots: It was for a slow-cooked Sunday sauce made with three meats crafted by my oldest son, Dan. He dished it up over fresh pasta during a blustery visit with the grandkids in January, and I enjoyed it so much I thought everyone else might, too.
Readers of the column also ate up a simple soup made with canned tomatoes and half-and-half (maybe because of the insanely munchable cheesy croutons sprinkled on top?) and a just-as-easy roasted cod dish featuring a bruschetta-like topping.
Given the city’s love affair with all things pierogi, it also was no surprise that a dumpling stuffed with corned beef and cabbage made for St. Patrick’s Day got a resounding thumbs up.
A zucchini dish from celebrity chef Thomas Keller that went viral on social media also was extremely popular. And because no meal is complete without dessert—especially on Valentine’s Day—a family-sized, super-easy creme brulée racked up the hits.
All the recipes follow for you try again, along with my personal favorite dish of the year: Roasted sweet potatoes filled with cheesy, roasted cauliflower. If you’re trying to get more vegetables into your diet, this is the place to start.
Danny’s Sunday Sauce
PG testedDan uses a meatloaf mix of ground pork, veal and beef for the meatballs. The sauce is even better the next day, and can be frozen.
- 1/2 cup olive oil, plus more for pan
- 1 1/2 -2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into chunks
- 1 pound mild Italian sausage
- 1 pound beef meatballs, premade or homemade
- 1 yellow onion, chopped
- 1 stalk celery, chopped
- 2 carrots, peeled and chopped
- 2 28-ounce cans Italian plum tomatoes, with or without basil, crushed
- 1 cup tomato puree or sauce
- 2 generous tablespoons hot cherry pepper hoagie spread, such as Cento
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
- Cooked pasta, for serving
- Grated Parmesan cheese, for serving
In large Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat. Season pork shoulder with salt and pepper, then add to pan. Sear pork until brown on both sides, then remove from pan and set aside.
Add onion, celery and carrots to hot oil and cook over medium heat until onion is translucent and carrots and celery are tender. Add garlic and cook for another minute or so, being careful not to burn. Stir in sandwich spread.
Deglaze pan by adding white wine, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of pan, then reduce heat and cook until wine is almost evaporated, about 3 to 5 minutes.
Add tomato puree or sauce and stir to combine. Stir in crushed tomatoes and cooked pork. Rinse cans with about 1 cup of water and add to pan.
Simmer sauce, slightly covered, over low heat for 2 1/2 hours, then add Italian sausage. Stir to make sure meat is submerged, then continue cooking for another 60 minutes.
In separate pan, sear meatballs in a little bit of olive oil. Add meatballs to saucepan, and gently stir to combine. Continue simmering the sauce for another hour or so, or until sauce reduces to desired consistency and pork easily shreds with a fork. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
To serve, add cooked pasta to a large bowl and spoon sauce over top, along with a little hot pasta water and a tablespoon or 2 of olive oil. Toss to combine, then serve in warmed bowls, with grated Parmesan.
Makes enough sauce for 10-12 servings.
Homemade Tomato Soup With Cheesy Croutons
PG testedIs there anything more comforting on a cold winter day than a big bowl of homemade tomato soup? This version comes with the added bliss of crunchy, cheesy croutons.
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 tablespoon butter, melted
- 1 tablespoon Dijon or honey mustard
- Salt and pepper
- 4 cups cubed, day-old Italian bread
- 1/2 cup finely chopped or grated sharp cheddar cheese
- 1 tablespoon butter
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1/2 small onion, finely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 2 28-ounce cans Italian plum tomatoes, crushed
- 1 cup chicken broth
- Pinch of red pepper flakes, or more to taste
- 1 teaspoon celery salt
- Pinch of oregano
- 1 1/2 cups half-and-half or light cream
- 1 teaspoon sugar or honey, or more to taste
- Grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish
Preheat oven to 350 degrees and lightly grease a cookie sheet.
Prepare croutons: In large bowl, whisk together oil, melted butter and mustard, then season with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Add bread cubes and toss to coat. Stir in grated cheese and toss to combine.
Pour croutons on prepared cookie sheet and bake for 15-20 minutes, tossing occasionally, until browned and crispy. Remove to a plate or bowl and set aside.
While croutons are baking, prepare soup. In large Dutch oven or soup pot, melt butter and oil over medium-low heat until it sizzles.
Add onion, and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, stir to combine, then add crushed tomatoes and their juices, chicken broth, a pinch of red pepper flakes and oregano, celery salt and a good grind or two of pepper.
Give it a good stir to combine, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot occasionally and breaking up the tomatoes with a potato masher or fork.
Stir in the half-and-half or cream and sugar. Using a hand blender, puree the soup until smooth. Or, allow the soup to cool slightly, then puree in batches in a stand blender (make sure to cover the top with a dish towel to avoid hot splashes.)
Taste soup, and stir in sugar/honey, along with more hot pepper flakes and salt to taste. Return to medium heat until soup is warmed through, then spoon into warmed bowls. Top with cheesy croutons and a sprinkle of grated Parmesan cheese, and serve.
Serves 8-10.
Pan-Roasted Cod
PG testedI used lemon-flavored balsamic vinegar in this dish, which adds a delicate citrus note. If you can’t find (or don’t like) cod, another white fish such as haddock is a seamless stand-in.
- 1 1/2 pounds fresh cod loin, cut into 4 portions
- Salt and pepper
- 2 tablespoons butter, melted
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
- Juice of 1/2 small lemon (about 1 tablespoon)
- 1 cup grape or cherry tomatoes, halved
- 3 or 4 basil leaves, slivered
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- Splash or two of olive oil
- Splash or two of balsamic vinegar
- 1/3 cup plain panko bread crumbs
- 2 heaping tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
- Pinch dried oregano
- Pinch red pepper flakes
- Olive oil
- Cooked rice, for serving
- Lemon slices, for serving
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Pat cod fillets with a paper towel until dry, then season with salt and pepper. Place in a greased casserole dish or parchment-line baking sheet.
In a small bowl, stir together melted butter, olive oil, minced garlic and lemon juice until combined. Spoon on top of cod fillets in pan until evenly coated.
In another small bowl, prepare bruschetta topping. Stir together chopped tomatoes, slivered basil and minced garlic, then add a splash or two of olive oil and balsamic vinegar to taste.
In a third small bowl, combine topping ingredients, using just enough olive oil to bind the panko and Parmesan—about 1 tablespoon.
Spoon the tomato mixture on top of the buttered cod, then sprinkle with Parmesan topping. (You might have extra.)
Bake fish until it is opaque and flakes easily with a fork, 15-20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets.
Serve on top of rice with pan sauce, with lemon slices for squeezing.
Serves 4.
Pan-Roasted Zucchini, Mediterranean Style
PG testedZucchini often gets a bad rap because it’s so ubiquitous at the end of summer, and really, how much zucchini bread can one eat? This recipe will win any skeptics over.
- 2 large zucchini
- Salt
- 1/4 cup mild-tasting oil such as olive or avocado oil
- 4 heaping tablespoons plain Greek yogurt
- 2 ounces crumbled feta cheese, divided
- 1 small clove garlic, minced
- Zest and juice of 1 lemon
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Large handful of fresh mint, finely chopped
- 1/4 cup crushed pistachios
- Ground sumac, for garnish (optional)
Slice stem end off of zucchini, then slice in half lengthwise. Using a paring knife, score the cut side diagonally both ways to create a crisscross pattern. Sprinkle with a little salt and allow zucchini to sit for about 20 minutes to draw out the moisture, then dab dry with a kitchen or paper towel.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Add olive oil to ovenproof pan (I used a cast-iron skillet) and heat until sizzling. Add zucchini halves flesh-side down, and cook for 5-6 minutes, until slightly browned and crispy.
Place pan in hot oven and cook for an additional 5-6 minutes, then remove pan, flip the zucchini to skin-side down and put it back in the oven for another 5 minutes.
While zucchini is roasting, make the sauce. In small bowl, combine yogurt, 1 ounce feta, minced garlic and zest and juice of 1 lemon. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
To serve, slather some of the sauce on the bottom of the serving platter. Lay roasted zucchini on top, then top with more sauce, remaining crumbled feta, mint leaves and crushed pistachios. Garnish with a little sumac, if desired. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.
Corned Beef and Cabbage Pierogies
PG testedDon’t be put off by the call for homemade dough in this recipe. It’s super easy to work with.
- 2 large eggs, divided
- 1/2 cup sour cream or plain Greek yogurt
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 2 cups (8 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon water
- 4 medium (avocado-sized) yellow Idaho potatoes, peeled and cubed
- 2 tablespoons butter, divided
- Milk, for potatoes
- 1/2 cup grated white Irish cheddar cheese
- 2 cups finely shredded or chopped green cabbage
- 4 ounces corned beef, chopped
- Onions sauteed in butter for serving, optional
Prepare dough: Whisk 1 egg, sour cream or yogurt, butter and salt in bowl. Add flour to large bowl. Gently stir wet ingredients into flour. The dough will initially be very dry and shaggy, seeming as if it will never come together, but have no fear: Keep stirring and it will pull itself into shape.
Once dough starts to come together, press and smash it against the sides of bowl with your palms, picking up dough bits and essentially kneading it within the bowl until it forms a ball.
Tip dough and any remaining shaggy flakes out onto a clean work surface. Knead until smooth, about 1 minute. Cover dough with a bowl and let rest at least 15 minutes. Whisk remaining egg and water in small bowl for egg wash.
While dough is resting, make filling: Cook potatoes in a large pot of salted boiling water until fork-tender. Remove to a large bowl, mash with a fork or potato masher and then stir in 1 tablespoon of butter and as much milk as you need to make the potatoes creamy. Add grated cheddar and stir until cheese is melted and well combined.
In separate pan, melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter. When it sizzles, add shredded cabbage along with a tablespoon or two of water and cook cabbage until it is soft and wilted. Stir in corned beef and set aside.
Assemble pierogies: Line a rimmed baking sheet with waxed or parchment paper.
Divide rested dough into 4 equal pieces with a bench scraper or knife. Set aside 3 pieces and cover with mixing bowl. Roll remaining dough as thinly as possible into a rough 8-by-12-inch rectangle.
Using a 3-inch round cookie cutter (I used a pint glass), cut out 6 rounds of dough. Resist the temptation to re-roll dough scraps for additional rounds. It seems wasteful, but dough won’t be as tender the second time around.
Spoon teaspoon of mashed potatoes and cabbage/corned beef mixture into the center of dough rounds. Using your finger, swipe a small amount of egg wash around the dough edge.
Fold dough over filling into a half-moon shape, then gently but firmly seal pierogi by pinching and squeezing edges together with your thumb and index finger. Start with 1 pinch at the top, then move to the “corner” of the pierogi and pinch along the edge back to the top. Repeat on opposite side to finish sealing. Transfer to baking sheet and repeat with remaining dough rounds and filling.
To cook, pierogies can either be boiled (2-3 minutes for fresh, 4-5 minutes for frozen), pan-fried in oil or butter (2 minutes per side), or deep-fried in at least 2 inches of 350-degree vegetable oil (3 minutes for fresh and 5 minutes for frozen).
Serve with sauteed onions on top, if desired.
Makes 24 pierogies.
Family-Style Creme Brulee
PG testedThe rich, silky-smooth custard in this dessert whisks together in minutes, and you don’t need a kitchen torch to caramelize the sugar topping—your oven broiler will also get the job done. I made it in a single pan for a shareable, family-sized dessert but you also can divide the custard into individual ramekins.
- 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 1 teaspoon vanilla-bean paste and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/3 cup granulated sugar, plus 2 tablespoons to finish
- 3 large egg yolks
- 1 large (whole) egg
- 1 tablespoon rum, Grand Marnier or brandy (optional)
- 2 cups heavy cream
- Heaped 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Heat oven to 325 degrees. Place a small dish towel or washcloth in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch or larger baking dish (this will keep the custard in place while it cooks). Place a 1-quart shallow baking dish on top of the towel. Bring a pot of water to boil.
Make custard: If using fresh vanilla bean, rub seeds into the 1/3 cup granulated sugar to infuse it with the most possible flavor.
Whisk the yolks, whole egg and 1/3 cup sugar until very smooth and evenly combined. Add vanilla paste, and vanilla extract and rum, if using, then slowly, slowly drizzle in the cream, whisking the whole time. For a perfect texture, pour through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl, ideally one with a spout.
Pour the egg mixture into the smaller baking dish places on top of the towel. Carefully pour in enough boiling water into the larger dish so that it reaches 2/3 of the height of your interior dish. Bake until the custard is just barely set and no longer jiggly in the center, about 35-45 minutes. (The custard will be 170-175 degrees; mine took 45 minutes to fully bake.)
Remove custard from the water, and cool on a rack to room temperature, 2-3 hours, then chill completely, covered, for 4 hours or up to 4 days. (This will prevent it from becoming soupy.)
Shortly before serving, spread the surface evenly with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Use a kitchen blowtorch to melt the sugar into a crispy bronzed top. (Alternatively, place the creme brulee on a sheet pan and stick it under the broiler for 5-10 minutes, until sugar is completely melted and forms a caramelized sheet of sugar on top.)
Return creme brulee to fridge one more time, just to take away the warmth from the blowtorch or broiler, for about 15 minutes — any longer and the crunch caramelized sugar on top will dissolved.
Serve family-style, with multiple spoons, or dish into small bowls for individual servings.
Serves 4 to 6.
Roasted Cauliflower Sweet Potatoes
PG testedThis veggie-friendly side dish will make a cauliflower lover out of you.
- 3 large sweet potatoes
- Olive oil, for pan
- 1 large head cauliflower, broken or cut into small florets
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Smoked sweet paprika, optional
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1/4 cup minced red onion, divided
- 4 tablespoons flour
- 1 teaspoon Dijon or honey mustard
- Ground cayenne, or dash of chili-flavored olive oil, optional
- 1 1/2 -2 cups whole or low-fat milk
- 1 1/2 cups shredded sharp cheddar, plus a little more for garnish
- Grated Parmesan cheese, for dusting
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
Scrub potatoes, then pierce all over with a fork. Rub with 1 tablespoon olive oil, then place on the oven rack and bake until they are tender in the center when pierced, about 1 hour.
While potatoes are baking, prepare cauliflower. Place florets in a large bowl, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper and as much, or little, smoked paprika as you like. Toss again to combine. Place florets on a baking sheet and roast in oven with potatoes until tender and nicely browned on the edges, about 25-30 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool while potatoes continue cooking.
Meanwhile, make the cheese sauce. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add most of the minced red onion, and saute until translucent, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add flour and whisk to combine, then cook for about 1 minute while continuing to whisk to get rid of the floury taste. Add mustard and a pinch of cayenne (or chili oil), along with a pinch of salt and good grind of black pepper, and stir to combine.
Stir in the milk, a little at a time, while whisking to make sure there are no lumps. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring with a spoon, until sauce thickens. Stir in cheese, a little at a time, and whisk to combine. Taste and add additional seasonings, if needed. Cover to keep warm.
Once potatoes are ready, slice them in half. Scrape out the insides into a mixing bowl, being careful not to tear the shell. (Leave a small rim of potato intact for support.) Lay the hollowed-out potato shells on a baking sheet.
Mash the potatoes in the bowl, then stir in about 1 cup of roasted cauliflower. Fill the potato shells with the filling. Spoon cheese sauce over the potatoes (as much or little as you like. You will have more than you need.), then top with remaining roasted cauliflower florets. Sprinkle some grated cheddar cheese on top of potatoes, along with grated Parmesan cheese.
Return to oven to cook until the cauliflower topping is brown and cheese is melted, about 5-7 minutes.
Serve, with minced red onion on top, if desired.
Makes 6 servings.
—adapted from “Smitten Kitchen Keepers” by Deb Perelman (Knopf, $35)
