A Friendship Forged in Bibingka and Varenyky

Varenyky & bibingka. Courtesy of Cherry Dumaual

Throughout our travels to countries where English isn’t widely spoken, my husband, Howard, and I have enjoyed connecting with the local people by enthusiastically seeking out and tasting their country’s cuisine. There’s something magical about savoring local dishes, immersing ourselves in different cultures, and appreciating their family traditions.

It’s like a secret sauce that lets us break through language barriers and build meaningful connections with people from all walks of life.

I remember one moonlit evening that found Howard and me in bustling Istanbul, navigating the labyrinthine streets in search of a table at a popular outdoor restaurant. As fate would have it, we were warmly embraced by a group of locals relishing their “meze”—a tantalizing array of Turkish appetizers consisting of vegetables, dips, beans, salads, stuffed mussels, stuffed vine leaves, meatballs, yogurt, cheese, and so much more. The language we spoke that night was one of smiles, nods, and the symphony of contented lip-smacking sounds. It was a culinary adventure that spoke volumes with words hardly spoken.

These encounters of culinary bonding are not confined to foreign lands. It can happen anywhere. I experienced it in our small Connecticut town, New Fairfield. This bonding magic unfolded when a Ukrainian family moved in across the street, setting the stage for a heartwarming connection.

The author (L) and her neighbor Oleksandra showcase their bibingka and varenyky dishes. Courtesy of Cherry Dumaual

A Sweet Exchange

My first encounter was with Olga, the grandmother. It occurred during a leisurely autumn walk. I saw her pushing her granddaughter in her baby carriage on our quiet street. I tried to converse with her, but I realized that Olga did not speak English. So, a simple “hello,” with lots of friendly smiles exchanged between us, marked the beginning of something sweet. Through her daughter, Oleksandra, I learned about their roots in Western Ukraine. Howard and I met the other members of her family, which included her husband, Andriy, and two young daughters, Sofiya and Zlata.

The perfect opportunity to extend a warm welcome to our new neighbors arrived with the Christmas season by offering them a freshly baked bibingka, a delectable Philippine rice cake that symbolizes celebration and togetherness. As a Filipino American, I have continued the holiday tradition of making a batch and sharing them with friends as a heartfelt expression of gratitude.

Made with rice flour, coconut milk, and other ingredients including butter, sugar, and shredded cheddar cheese, bibingka is traditionally baked in banana leaves and topped with grated cheese, coconut, and sliced salted duck eggs. While this rice cake is a holiday treat, it is savored throughout the year for breakfast, merienda (a light late afternoon or early evening snack), or dessert. Like many others who tried bibingka for the first time, Olga and her family found it hard to resist its fluffy texture and lightly sweetened, cheesy flavor.

Little did I know that this simple act of sharing bibingka with my new Ukrainian neighbors would sow the seeds of camaraderie.

In return, a few days after my bibingka offer, Oleksandra presented us with varenyky, Ukrainian dumplings lovingly prepared by her mother. My husband and I savored the tasty flavor and creamy, melt-in-your-mouth texture. While traditionally enjoyed during the holiday season, we learned, this delightful dish holds a special place in the hearts of Ukrainians throughout the year. Varenyky, Ukraine’s take on pierogi, could be both sweet and savory. Olga’s version is a family favorite, adapted from a recipe passed down by Oleksandra’s grandmother. The filling of sour cabbage and farmer’s cheese in Olga’s varenyky results in a lighter twist on the classic potato-filled version. Oleksandra even shared tips for recipe substitutions, making this culinary exchange all the more enriching.

Oleksandra (R) and her daughters, Sofiya (L) and Zlata (C), make varenyky dough. Courtesy of Cherry Dumaual

A Universal Language

Our connection blossomed through these culinary delights. With each bite, our unspoken bond grew stronger, and our ethnic differences faded into the background. The language barrier that might have otherwise made Olga and her family feel like outsiders became inconsequential in the face of our shared passion for food.

Although Olga has since moved to a Ukrainian community in New York state, my friendship with Oleksandra and her family remains steadfast. Our homes have become hubs of cultural exchange, with Oleksandra, a talented home cook and baker, treating us to her Ukrainian creations, while I reciprocate with Filipino dishes such as adobo and, of course, bibingka.

Since our house is across from Oleksandra’s, we often catch up with each other on our walks and reminisce about our native countries. I love hearing about the Ukrainians’ love for sour cherries. I, of course, boast about how the Philippines produces the most luscious mangoes.

When I mentioned to Oleksandra my desire to write about how our families formed a bond through bibingka and varenyky, she eagerly agreed to share her mom’s cherished varenyky recipe.

With the new year, Howard and I, along with Olga, Oleksandra, and her family, hold a heartfelt hope. In a world challenged by language barriers, communication hurdles, and cultural divides, let’s use the universal language of food to bridge those differences, connect with our neighbors, and make this world more joyful, one dish at a time.

Modern variations of bibingka may incorporate different flours, flavorings, and toppings, offering creative twists on the traditional recipe. Courtesy of Cherry Dumaual

Bibingka

The ingredients for bibingka are usually available in Asian markets. My simple version omits the salted duck egg slices.

Serves 6 to 8

For the Batter

• 2 cups white rice flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 3 large eggs
• 1/4 cup unsalted melted butter (plus butter for greasing the baking pan and spreading small pieces for topping)
• 1 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut milk

For the Toppings

• 1/2 cup grated coconut or unsweetened coconut flakes
• 3/4 cup grated cheddar cheese
• Butter (cut into very small pieces)

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F. Grease a round cake pan with butter.

Prepare the batter: In a large mixing bowl, combine the rice flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar. In a separate large bowl, beat the eggs. Add the melted butter and coconut milk to the eggs and mix well until all the ingredients are fully incorporated.

Gradually add the rice flour mixture to the wet ingredients. Mix until you have a smooth batter.

Pour the bibingka batter into the greased cake pan, making sure to distribute evenly.

Sprinkle grated coconut, grated cheese, and small pieces of butter evenly over the surface.

Place the cake pan in the preheated oven and bake for about 25 to 30 minutes, or until the top of the bibingka turns golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Varenyky are commonly filled with a variety of ingredients, with traditional fillings including mashed potatoes, cheese, sauerkraut, fruits, or meat. Courtesy of Cherry Dumaual

Sour Cabbage and Cheese Varenyky

Varenyky is Ukraine’s take on pierogi, and can be both sweet and savory. This savory recipe is Oleksandra’s family favorite, from a recipe passed down by her grandmother. The filling of sour cabbage and farmer’s cheese results in a lighter twist on the classic potato-filled version.

Serves about 4

For the Dough

• 10 ounces warm water
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons for flouring the working surface
• 1 cup whole wheat flour

For the Filling

• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 medium carrot, shredded
• 14 ounces drained sour cabbage (sauerkraut)
• Pinch of freshly ground pepper
• 9 ounces farmer’s cheese (such as Friendship Farmer Cheese or crumbled queso fresco)
• 2 to 3 tablespoons of olive oil for sautéing

For the Toppings

• 3 to 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, or to taste
• 1 small onion, chopped, caramelized until golden brown in butter/olive oil (optional)
• Sour cream for serving

To make the varenyky dough:

In a food processor, mix together the warm water, egg, sea salt, and extra virgin olive oil until blended well.

Add flour and mix on medium speed until fully incorporated. Gradually add the whole wheat flour on low-medium speed, and let the food processor knead it another minute until everything is mixed well. Scoop out the dough into a well-floured bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and let it rest for about 30 minutes. The dough can stay in the fridge for up to 24 hours before using.

To make the filling:

Take the opportunity while the dough is resting to prepare the filling. Heat 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet. Add onions and carrots. Sauté for about 5 minutes, tossing regularly, until the onions are a bit golden.

Add drained sauerkraut. Season with a pinch of freshly ground pepper. Sauté for about 10 to 15 minutes, stirring regularly, until softened and light golden in color. Let it cool to room temperature.

Add farmer’s cheese and stir to combine.

The filling can also be prepared in advance and rest in the fridge for a day or two.

To make the finished dish:

Divide dough into 2 pieces. Cover the second piece and transfer the first piece onto a well-floured surface. Roll it out thin (but not transparent) to about 1/8-inch thickness.

Use a 3-inch glass or cookie cutter to cut circles from the dough, and keep scraps to use later with the rest of the dough. Add a generous amount of filling, but not so much that you’re unable to seal the dough. Pull the 2 edges together and pinch tightly to seal; otherwise, the varenyky will open during the cooking. Note: You can freeze uncooked varenyky for the future (up to 3 months in the freezer).

To cook, bring a pot of water to a rolling boil and add 1 teaspoon of salt. Add fresh or frozen varenyky. Once they are floating and the water is back to a boil, let them cook for about 2 minutes. Remove to a bowl with a slotted spoon, and drizzle with melted butter or caramelized onions.

Serve with a generous amount of sour cream on the side.