1. The World Is Endless (Almost)
Our conception of the globe can be very small. You can step on a plane in New York, then stride out onto the jet bridge in Hong Kong, literally on the other side of world, on the same day. And of course, many people rarely leave their own little neighborhood.But a trip to Antarctica drives home the utterly massive scale of the earth. I remember the first time I traveled there, about a decade ago. After boarding the ship in Argentina, we encountered a very rough crossing of the Drake Passage, infamously the most difficult stretch of water on earth. I’ll never forget it.
The voice of the captain reverberated in the speaker in my room, awakening me in the morning: “We’re encountering Beaufort Force 11, so hold on tight!” It turns out 11 is the second-highest on the scale. We rocked and rolled for two days, encountering almost unimaginably huge waves and borderline hurricane-force winds.
Arriving first at the South Shetland Islands and then the Antarctic Peninsula, we sailed for days and days— past peaks laden with snow, glaciers, and island after island, some with thousands of penguins on them— without ever seeing a permanent human settlement.
After arriving back home, I had a look at a globe, confident we had sailed halfway around it. But not even close. In fact, the ship had only traversed about an inch and only arrived at the very extreme northern tip of Antarctica, not a bit more. It taught me that this world is actually so much bigger than we can picture.
2. It’s an International Community (and Everybody Gets Along)
Antarctica has no permanent residents, and no indigenous peoples. The Antarctic Treaty was originally signed by 12 nations back in 1959. Today, 58 countries are party to it. The treaty reserves the whole continent for scientific pursuits and sets aside national land claims.
Some of the greatest pleasures on my earlier trips there were visits to research stations. These outposts are usually relatively small, close clusters of corrugated buildings, unattractive but functional. The number of workers varies—the smallest houses have perhaps 200 workers, while McMurdo Station, the largest U.S. base, swells to perhaps 1,000 in the summer. There, scientists carry out experiments and testing in various fields—climate, glaciology, marine biology, and others.
The fascinating part is that each station in this far-flung place is a microcosm of its home nation. I’ve visited Base Presidente Eduardo Frei (Chile) on King George Island. Named for King George III, this island is the largest of the South Shetland Islands. It’s home to many research stations, including outposts from Poland, Brazil, Peru, and Korea.
At Frei, outside, the landscape and weather were all snow and cold and gunmetal-gray polar waters. But it was warm inside. The scientists and support workers were friendly and casual. They switched back and forth from Spanish to English when they spoke. Chilean flags hung all around the place. And best of all? They made their own wine and offered us a glass.
At Vernadsky (Ukraine), set on a point of land claimed by three different countries, the bar served some amazing vodka. At Palmer (United States), the scientists doubled as souvenir sellers, hawking T-shirts and hats and keychains that said “Palmer Station Antarctica.” (I purchased a jacket and treasure it to this day.)
What’s now called the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) established Port Lockroy back in 1944. Lockroy was the first year-round, continuously occupied presence for the Brits on the frozen continent. The three buildings are still there and now operate as a historic site. Expedition cruise passengers tour the small museum, which showcases the rough-and-ready lifestyle of those early BAS scientists.
A handful of workers keep the place open through the months of Antarctic summer. They answer questions, give tours, and stamp postcards, which take weeks and weeks to reach their destinations. I asked a 30-something woman, who had been working there a couple of months, what she missed most from home. “Fresh fruit and vegetables,” she said with a smile. “I know I should say family and friends—but it’s true.”
3. You Can Still Feel Like an Explorer
I’ve visited more than 100 countries, and I can tell you—even in places very far from home, you often don’t really feel like you’re discovering anything. Yes, the waters where expedition ships traverse the Antarctic Peninsula see many visitors every year. But let me just say that when you’re headed to ultimate south, you feel like you’re sailing off the map.Shackleton, Amundsen, Scott. They all had the polar fever and explored beyond it. And the beauty of it is that, in Antarctica, you can, too. Even if, unlike those guys, you have the pleasure of riding around on zodiacs and walking among penguins and elephant seals before returning to a warm ship for a hot shower and maybe a steak—and the opportunity for so many more amazing experiences the next day.
Three Considerations When Choosing an Antarctic Expedition Cruise
Look at the toys: Many expedition ships have vehicles like helicopters and submarines for guests to ride and enjoy. Think about whether these are important to you.Consider the cost: No Antarctica voyage is going to be cheap, but some of the very high-end ships can range up to $50,000 or more per person. Realize that even on an older vessel with more basic accommodations, you’ll still have a thrilling experience.
Sail-by?: A few of the big-ship lines offer the option to sail by the continent. While you won’t be able to disembark and walk among the penguins, it’s still an amazing opportunity to see this place for a tiny fraction of the cost.
