By Beth Dooley
From The Minnesota Star Tribune
At this point after the holidays, we could all use simple, savory dishes to counter the delightful excesses of cookie platters and blow-out dinners. But that doesn’t mean we need to take an ascetic approach to cooking or a retreat into plain, ho-hum fare.
Restaurant chefs know that just a pinch of this or a splash of that can lift the simplest dish into spectacular territory. The key is in balancing flavors and textures by zhuzhing up bland foods or bridging contrasting tastes with a neutral ingredient.
The mild, complementary components of our favorite comfort foods—pasta and cheese, rice and beans, chicken and rice, potatoes and onions—need a “counterpoint” for definition. Something sharp and acidic (vinegar, lemon juice, wine); or hot and bright (chili peppers, garlic); or umami, that mysterious fifth taste (olives, anchovies, capers, soy, balsamic).
A long, slow cook time—roasting, braising and leisurely poaching—is a simple way to marry contrasting ingredients. This works especially well in recipes that can be prepared ahead of time. Stored for a night or two in the refrigerator, their flavors meld and mellow together. Classic examples are the slowly cooked pulled pork or the long-simmered pot of chili. But long and slow simmering also works nicely with root vegetables—especially carrots, parsnips, and beets. When poached in a tasty liquid, they become tender and absorb the flavors of the cooking medium.
Finally, it’s always a good idea to keep a few store-bought condiments at the ready, including chili oil, curry paste, good vinegar, and extra-virgin olive oil, canned anchovies, olives, and capers. Here are a few tips and techniques to help jazz things up:
- When making a soup or stew, begin by sizzling in a little pancetta, bacon or crumbled sausage with the aromatic onions and garlic before adding the remaining ingredients to bolster flavor and body.
- Add a splash of acid—wine, vinegar, lemon, or lime juice—to soups and stews at the last minute. Start slowly, taste, then taste again.
- Swirl a glug of good olive oil or a few pats of butter into a soup or stew as it comes from the stove to enhance its richness.
- Shower shredded Parmesan or crumbled feta over pasta, soups, stews, and rice dishes to enhance texture.
- Flavors pale in the refrigerator over time. Season dishes right after reheating, then taste and adjust and taste again.
- Give dishes of fish, chicken, and pork an umami kick with a few chopped anchovies, capers, or green or black olives.
- Miso, when whisked into butter, adds a mysterious, salty, rich touch. Keep it on hand to lift up vegetables, potatoes, pasta, and chicken.
- Good quality frozen vegetables have more flavor and nutrients than their winter-weary fresh counterparts.
- Toast whole spices such as cumin, coriander, cardamom, and fennel, then grind for the most intense taste.
- A pinch of red pepper flakes kicks everything up a notch.
Sweet & Hot Pepper and Onion Confit
Makes about 3 to 3 1/2 cups.
This luscious, sweet-hot condiment perks up a variety of dishes. Stir it into the most ordinary mac and cheese, top off a grilled sausage sandwich, toss it with pasta or rice or steamed potatoes. It will keep in the refrigerator in a covered container for about a week and can be frozen.
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 large bell peppers, seeded and diced
- 1 small red jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced or generous pinch red pepper flakes, to taste
- 1 large yellow or white onion, diced
- 3 medium shallots, diced
- 1 tablespoon fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar
- Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Orange-Cumin Poached Carrots
Serves 4.Slowly simmered in a cumin-spiked broth, the carrots turn tender and sweet, their flavors intensified by the tangy orange and warm spice. You can make these a day or two in advance and refrigerate. Reheat and season with a little lime before serving. They’re great alongside roast chicken or pork.
- 1 pound carrots, trimmed and split in half vertically
- 1 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
- Grated zest of 1 small orange
- 2 cloves garlic, smashed
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- Pinch coarse salt
- Pinch freshly ground black pepper
- 1/8 teaspoon honey
- 1 cup fresh orange juice
- 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice, to taste
- Sliced lime for garnish
Reduce the heat to simmer and add the carrots. Cover the pan and simmer on low, checking occasionally, until the carrots are very tender but not falling apart, about 30 to 45 minutes. Gently stir in the lime juice and serve garnished with thin slices of lime.
Miso-Butter Sauteed Mushrooms
Serves 4.The earthy, meaty flavor of mushrooms is intensified with a shot of savory miso butter. (Make sure to make extra to have on hand for veggies and pasta.) Leave the mushrooms whole to serve as an appetizer or alongside eggs, chicken, or tofu.
- 2 tablespoons white miso paste
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
- 2 cloves garlic, grated or finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 24 ounces cremini mushrooms
- 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
Film a skillet with the oil and set over medium heat. When the oil begins to ripple, add the mushrooms and toss. Cover, reduce the heat, and cook until the mushrooms have released their juices, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the cover and continue cooking, stirring, until the mushrooms are dry. Stir in the miso butter and continue cooking, tossing the mushrooms until they’re completely coated and slightly sticky. Toss in the sesame seeds and serve.
Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com. Copyright 2025 The Minnesota Star Tribune. Visit at startribune.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.
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