When we think of food in the past, it is often images of Henry VIII with a table groaning with meat dishes that springs to mind. But in fact our ancestors knew more about the health benefits of eating salads—normally thought of as a cold dish of herbs or vegetables—than we might think.
By looking back to the sustainable self-sufficiency of the past, we find there is a lot we can learn about the variety of the historical salad dish, which costs next to nothing, has no carbon footprint, and might even be beneficial to our health.
In the past year, gardening and growing vegetables have enjoyed a resurgence as a family-friendly, outdoor pastime that can also help ease concerns over food shortages. While becoming totally self-sufficient is unlikely, Evelyn’s “Acetaria” has some tips that the green-fingered grower can use to feed their families and some advice that could help expand their harvests in an unlikely way.
The Gardener’s Year
The centrality of salads to the diet in Evelyn’s manifesto is underpinned with the verse from “Acetaria”:Bread, Wine and wholsome Sallets you may buy, What Nature adds besides is Luxury.While the rhyme refers to buying salads, Evelyn points out that such plants are easy to grow, have no fuel requirement in their preparation, are near at hand, and importantly are easy to digest.
It’s not just the expected salad items such as cucumber and lettuce that Evelyn remarks on, though. He offers daisies, dandelions, and docks as part of the bounty, as well as cowslips (a type of primrose). These and many other plants that even flourish on compost heaps and waste ground could help the gardener be more self-sufficient—and at no real cost.
A Salad ‘Fitted for a City Feast’
This is a flamboyant recipe that Evelyn gives us that upends our view of what a salad can be.- Blanched almonds, sliced, and soaked in cold water
- Pickled cucumbers
- Olives
- Cornelians (a kind of cherry which Evelyn claims when pickled can pass for an olive)
- Capers
- Berberries (barberries)
- Red-Beet (beetroot)
- Nasturtium buds
- Broom
- Purslane stalks
- Samphire
- Ash keys
- Walnuts
- Pickled mushrooms
- Raisins of the Sun
- Citron and Orange peel
- Corinth (currants), well cleansed and dried
The message of Evelyn’s book is to use what nature provides. The medicinal garden (called the apothecary or physic garden) brought into sharp focus the beneficial properties of various plants, which they thought able to cure all sorts of complaints. Evelyn would have been proud to see a nation of gardeners and cooks today taking up this self-sufficiency that was so natural to him back in the 1600s. Something for us to reflect on as we enter another new year.