grilled octopus

In “Queens: A Culinary Passport,” Andrea Lynn offers a curated slice of Queens that’s part guidebook, part cookbook.

This appetizer is adapted from the dish at Gregory’s 26 Corner Taverna in Astoria. To bulk it up into a meal, double the recipe and add an order of oven-roasted beets or sautéed dandelion greens, two sides served at the restaurant.