Hong Kong Consumer Council: Alcohol and Fragrance Allergens Found in Samples of Toners

Samples of toner tested by the Hong Kong Consumer Council on display on Aug. 15, 2023. Sung Pi-lung/The Epoch Times

Many women like to use a toner to minimize their pores after cleansing. A recent test conducted by the Hong Kong Consumer Council on 25 toner products revealed that nine contained one to four types of allergenic fragrances, with levels exceeding the limits set by the EU Cosmetic Directive. Ten samples contained alcohol, three with concentrations higher than 10 percent.

The Council warns that fragrance allergens could lead to skin redness and swelling. At the same time, products containing high concentrations of alcohol may accelerate the loss of moisture on the skin’s surface and dissolve protective oils on the skin.

The Consumer Council (CC) tested 25 samples of toners and lotions, with prices ranging from US$10 to US$60.The testing methodology followed the EU Cosmetic Directive, focusing on harmful substances commonly found in toners, such as allergenic fragrances, preservatives like MIT/CMIT, and parabens. The samples’ pH levels and alcohol content were also assessed, along with a review of the label information.

Results showed that none of the samples contained four prohibited allergenic fragrances. However, nine samples contained six restricted allergenic fragrances, including linalool, citronellol, geraniol, limonene, benzyl alcohol, and benzyl benzoate. All these exceeded the EU Cosmetic Directive limits (0.001 percent for leave-on products).

For instance, the “Origins” Zero Oil Pore Purifying Toner with Saw Palmetto & Mint contained four allergenic fragrances. “Collagen by Watsons” Moisturizing & Firming Body Lotion and “Bobbi Brown” Hydrating Face Tonic contain three types of allergenic fragrances. “MUJI” Light Toning Water and “Innisfree” Bija Trouble Skin contained two types each. None of the three products mentioned above has been labeled with product information and test results of allergenic fragrances in accordance with EU regulations, and the CC has referred them to the Customs and Excise Department (C&ED) for follow-up action.

Six samples contained linalool, ranging from 0.0014 percent to 0.0350 percent. These included products from “L’Oréal,” “Collagen by Watsons,” “Bobbi Brown,” “Innisfree,” “Aēsop,” and “Origins.” Three samples contained citronellol, ranging from 0.0011 percent to 0.0055 percent, including the “belif,” “Collagen by Watsons,” and “MUJI” products. Among them, the “MUJI” packaging did not list citronellol.

Four samples, including “Collagen by Watsons,” “Bobbi Brown,” “MUJI,” and “Origins,” contained geraniol, ranging from 0.0014 percent to 0.0084 percent. The packaging of “MUJI” and “Origins” did not list geraniol.

Three samples contained limonene, ranging from 0.0025 percent to 0.0150 percent, including products from “Bobbi Brown,” “Innisfree,” and “Origins.”

Benzyl alcohol is used for fragrance and as a cosmetic preservative. According to the EU Cosmetic Directive, the maximum allowable concentration for benzyl alcohol used as fragrance and preservative is 0.001 percent and 0.1 percent, respectively. The test found that “Olay” contained 0.025 percent benzyl alcohol, exceeding the allowable limit for fragrance but below the preservative limit. The product packaging did not list this substance. “Origins” contained 0.0015 percent benzyl benzoate.

The Customs and Excise Department responded that they had studied the information and conducted follow-up investigations. The Customs will take action if products are found to violate the Consumer Goods Safety Ordinance.

One Sample with an Alcohol Content of 34 percent

The test found alcohol in ten samples, with three of the toner products having alcohol content exceeding 10 percent. The highest alcohol content was in the “Origins” sample, reaching 34 percent. “Aēsop” and “KOSÉ SEKKISEI” had alcohol contents of 14 percent and 16 percent, respectively, which were relatively high. The other seven samples, including “Innisfree” (9.1 percent), “Belif” (5.7 percent), “L’Oréal” (3.8 percent), “SOFINA” (3.7 percent), “Joseristine” (0.037 percent), “Bobbi Brown” (0.013 percent), and “Glycel” (0.0061 percent), had varying alcohol contents.

A sample of Origins' Pore Purifying Toner With Saw Palmetto & Mint on display on Aug. 15, 2023. Sung Pi-lung/The Epoch Times

While alcohol serves different purposes in cosmetics and skin care products, high concentrations can negatively affect the skin. According to Dr. Kingsley Chan Hau Ngai, a dermatologist representing the Federation of Medical Societies of Hong Kong, stated that high-concentration of alcohol can accelerate the loss of natural moisture from the skin’s surface and dissolve protective oils on the skin, leading to dryness and increased skin sensitivity, especially for individuals with eczema or sensitive skin.

Additionally, the Consumer Council found that three samples contained the preservative “methylparaben,” including “Curél,” “L’Oréal,” and “KOSÉ SEKKISEI,” at concentrations ranging from 0.024 percent to 0.089 percent, all of which complied with requirements in Mainland China and the EU. None of the samples contained MIT or CMIT.

The Ordinary Product Offers Best Value

Among the samples, 13 received a full score (5 points), with no allergenic fragrances or hydroxybenzoate ester preservatives detected. The cost per milliliter of these products ranged from HK$0.45 to HK$3.92. Among them, The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7 percent Toning Solution had the highest cost-effectiveness at an average of HK$0.45 per milliliter.

Doctor: Tread Carefully with Toners to Avoid Over-Cleansing

The Consumer Council noted that, according to doctors’ recommendations, using cleansing products daily is sufficient to remove daily dirt from the skin’s surface and pores. Using moisturizing products after cleansing is also suitable for most skincare routines. Overusing toners could lead to over-cleansing and an increased risk of skin sensitivity.

The Council advises consumers to be cautious when selecting skincare products, including toners. It’s essential to understand the ingredients in products and especially important for those who have experienced allergic reactions to fragrance substances. If skin reactions occur after using toners, one should consider stopping using them. For persistent issues, a dermatologist’s opinion should be sought. Individuals with eczema or sensitive skin should use milder cleansing products and avoid products containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).

The EU Cosmetic Directive has established requirements for 26 common allergenic fragrances. Four allergenic fragrances are prohibited and cannot be added to cosmetics and skincare products. Specific requirements for the remaining 22 allergenic fragrances have been set for leave-on and rinse-off products.

Brand Responses

The supplier of “Joseristine” mentioned that the product is no longer available for sale in stores, and the company has provided relevant test results to the raw material supplier for further understanding.

The supplier of “L’Oréal” stated that their product complies with the EU Cosmetic Directive’s requirements for allergenic fragrances and hydroxybenzoate preservatives. The brand has consistently ensured product safety and compliance with international safety standards.

The supplier of “SOFINA” explained that adding an appropriate amount of ethanol to the product enhances stability and acts as a preservative. It also gives the skin a light and non-greasy feeling, improving its texture.

The “KOSÉ SEKKISEI” supplier mentioned that the product’s methyl hydroxybenzoate acts as a preservative, and ethanol adjusts the product’s texture. Both ingredients have been widely used in cosmetics for a long time and have proven safety records. The company highlighted that the product’s methyl hydroxybenzoate content complies with international standards.