BC Surfer Rides Huge Wave That Only Appears Every 5 Years—Here Are the Stunning Photos

Pete Devries, from Tofino, B.C., is considered to be one of the best surfers in Canada. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

It’s the best-kept secret in elite surfing circles. Only insiders know the whereabouts of certain unrivalled waves—knowledge that’s been earned through years of experience riding on the water.

Through pain, dedication, respect, and humility, cold-water surfer Pete Devries, from Tofino on Vancouver Island, came to be considered one of the best surfers in Canada. Like other famous surfers, he has been sworn to secrecy about some of the giant waves he has navigated. To speak too loosely would invite danger to less experienced athletes who might recklessly endanger themselves.

“I don’t really like to name waves or talk about locations,” Devries, 41, told The Epoch Times. “Most of these places we surf are remote and still have a few secrets.”

When pressed, he revealed only “Vancouver Island,” adding that aspiring surfers must put in the time before gaining access.

Devries—who won first place in the 2009 Cold Water Classic and is featured regularly in magazines like Surfer, Surfline, and Canadian Surf Magazine—has put in his time, surfing for 34 years.

Added to his credit, he’s endured pain for the sport he loves.

“I had a wipeout last winter out at this reef that I got completely smashed on,” he said. “I caught a hollow [wave] deep, and realized I wasn’t going to make it so I jumped forward to get away from my board. This is standard procedure for me and something I’ve done thousands of times.”

B.C. surfer Pete Devries rides a large wave off the coast of Vancouver Island. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

Pete Devries rides through the barrel of a wave backlit by sunlight. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

The seasoned surfer points to razor-sharp reefs and even his own board as the biggest hazards. In this instance, it was his surfboard.

“I ended up flying so far in the barrel that my leash pulled tight and my board flew right on top of me,” he said. “The wave picked me up and took me over the falls. I came down super hard on top of my board.”

The fins of his board snapped, Devries says, and he instantly felt pain in his back. He came away with several abrasions and needed stitches in his back and elbow.

Over the decades, Devries says he’s never felt his life was in danger, yet he’s suffered countless injuries to his ankles, knees, and back, some that have lasted years.

But to watch Devries surfing, you wouldn’t think things on the water were so rough. He makes it all look so easy.

In one instance caught on video, he is seen paddling onto the peak of a massive swell. He skillfully stands up (a task far easier said than done), then drops into the steep and heavy wave, teetering on the edge of his toes, not knowing if he'll make it or not.

Seconds later, he’s in the barrel of the wave.

He says it feels surreal as focus takes over. “Time slows and I am looking at the falling lip for guidance on whether to speed up or slow down,” he says. The terrifying reef is seen clearly below him, a prospect that becomes ever more frightening as he is swallowed deeper into the barrel.

After surfing through without incident, Devries executes a series of acrobatic moves. He finesses the water with expert ease and launches himself into the air along with a flurry of spray.

A giant wave curls around Pete Devries. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

An underwater view of surfing of the coast of Vancouver Island. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

He always aims to be “enjoyable to watch,” he says, and to see him surf is to see how true that is. His repertoire includes cutbacks—whipping his board back into the barrel and suddenly executing a U-turn out again. He “alley oops,” leaping into the air and rotating 360 degrees to land on the wall of the wave and continue surfing. His displays aren’t your run-of-the-mill.

Learning the Craft

In order to achieve that level of ability, and thus gain access to the great waves the Vancouver Island is known for, Devries has put in decades of gruelling practice.

His skills originate from his father, who rode his longboard in front of their house in Tofino while then 6-year-old Devries played with his friends and watched. At age 7, he got his first surfboard and starting riding waves that summer. By age 14, he was surfing competitively.

He constantly watched videos of the world’s top surfers and of himself, and then compared them to improve his technique. His dad taught him to use his knee to help stand up, though this very basic move remained elusive to Devries until the late age of 17.

Surfers watch powerful waves of Vancouver Island's west coast. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

Cold-water surfers tackle waves on the western coastline of Vancouver Island. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

(Left) Pete Devries; (Right) The locations where surfers ride the really big waves are kept secret to prevent daredevils from placing themselves at risk. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

“I remember saying to myself, ‘I have to figure this out, this is embarrassing!’” he said. “I spent a week falling on my face at a secluded beach and figured it out. It was a good reminder that sometimes you have to take steps back to take steps forward.”

Devries’s surfing career led him around the world—and not just to cold-water destinations. Of course, he’s ridden big waves in Hawaii and California, and even as far away as Indonesia. But what stands out most, he says, are the more remote locations, like the Bering Sea, Norway, Iceland, Chile, and Tasmania.

In truth, he doesn’t have to travel far from home to find what is arguably the biggest wave in Canada—though he refused to reveal its exact location.

A wave curls over as it begins to break. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

Surfing off Vancouver Island. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

Pete Devries cuts over a breaking wave. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

Pete Devries catches air on the water. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

Seen before a backlit wave swallowing him, Pete Devries rides through its barrel. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

The waves and water seem to posses a life of their own. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

Another surfer in Tofino told The Epoch Times this mammoth wave can be found between the towns of Tofino and Uclulet, to the north, though declined to offer more.

Devries noted that such waves break only “once in a blue moon” and are “incredibly fickle.”

“I‘d say every four to five years we get a really good day,” he says. “But when that day happens there is no place I’d rather surf.”

Devries is spending this winter testing many of the big waves Vancouver Island has to offer. He and his surfing friends are constantly waiting for all the weather factors to line up before striking out onto the surf.

A blue wall of water topples over as Pete Devries surfs down the barrel. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

Pete Devries rides a wave before a rocky shoreline. Courtesy of Marcus Paladino

Devries has ridden some of the best waves in the world, yet he remains humble. The sea has taught him to be clear about his limits.

“A lot of people have an elevated sense of their ability level when it comes to surfing” he says. “That can lead to people getting into precarious situations.” He advises surfers to be honest with themselves and what they’re comfortable with.

“I’m definitely not as go-for-broke as a surfer anymore,” he adds. “I find more joy in simple things in the water sometimes also. It’s not just about doing a big air anymore for me.”

High-quality prints of Marcus Paladino’s surf photography are available here.