To the Bardi, foods lacking in fat were considered “rubbish.” If a kangaroo was too lean, they threw it away. They fished only for specific species of fish, and at the right time of year, to harvest only those with the most fat lining the intestines. Then they painstakingly removed the fat, melted it in a shell or tin can set over a fire, and drank the fat or used it as a dip for the fish.
Spring tides were the time for harvesting rock oysters—at other times of the year the oysters were “rubbish!” Researchers analyzing the oysters found that during spring tides, they were four times richer in fat. Moreover, they found that the fat from fish guts, fish livers, oysters, and turtle meat was predominantly saturated fat.
The Importance of Dietary Fat: A Historical View
In his book “The Fat of the Land,” explorer Vilhjalmur Stefansson notes that the Eskimo and northern Indians hunted game such as buffalo, elk, and caribou selectively— preferring the older animals because, over the years, those animals built up a slab of fat along the back that could weigh forty to fifty pounds. Another twenty to thirty pounds of highly saturated fat surrounded the kidneys.According to Stefansson, the natives saved the fat, sometimes by rendering, stored it in the bladder or large intestine, and ate it with dried or smoked lean meat, the most notable example being pemmican, which is made with lean meat pounded to a powder and rendered fat. Stefansson estimates that fat contributed up to 80 percent of total calories in the diets of the northern Indians.
“The groups that depend on the blubber animals are the most fortunate, in the hunting way of life, for they never suffer from fat-hunger.”
“This trouble is worst, so far as North America is concerned, among those forest Indians who depend at times on rabbits, the leanest animal in the North, and who develop the extreme fat-hunger known as rabbit-starvation. Rabbit eaters, if they have no fat from another source—beaver, moose, fish—will develop diarrhea in about a week, with headache, lassitude and vague discomfort.
“Meat hunger is striking and constant among the tribes I have contacted. Although meat of any kind was in great demand the favorite cuts included brisket of beef with the fat and cartilages; hogs head, brains and fat; the liver of any animal; the hands and feet of monkeys, because of the fat content; and the skin and subcutaneous fat of a wart hog. Pig skin is never saved for rawhide and leather. It is too valuable as food and is eaten after singeing off the hair, and prolonged boiling. Plump cow skin is similarly eaten. A lean cow skin will be saved for rawhide and leather.”
“Wild meat in Liberia is seldom fat,” wrote Dr. Harley.
Does the USDA Have It Wrong?
And yet, what constitutes the centerpiece of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Dietary Guidelines for Americans? Lean meat (including skinless chicken breasts) and nonfat or low-fat milk.The Guidelines admonish us to keep fat consumption (from vegetable oils) at 30 percent of calories or less and to get our remaining calories in the form of carbohydrates (carbs). Some extreme diets—such as the paleo diet—advocate eating lots of lean meat with no carbs!
While including carbs in the diet may forestall the danger of protein poisoning, this strategy does not address the other risk of eating lean meat exclusively—or of eating any kind of protein (skim milk, egg whites, protein powders) without fat—and by that I mean animal fat.
That risk is vitamin A depletion.
A very efficient way to deplete your body of this essential nutrient is to eat protein without any fat—just what the USDA recommends. In several instances, feeding of skim milk powder to malnourished children caused them to become blind—the most severe consequence of vitamin A deficiency.
In the days before we let the government tell us how to eat, Americans consumed chicken with gravy made from the fat—and never thought to avoid the skin. We drank whole milk and enjoyed butter and cream; we ate plenty of eggs and added extra yolks to dressings and sauces; lean meat was dressed in cream sauces or simply garnished with a pat of butter. We ate lobster with drawn butter, and fish in cream sauces. Meat just tasted better that way, and our meals were satisfying. Now we know why: Animal fats like butter, cream, egg yolks, and poultry fat provide the vitamin A we need to utilize the protein in our food. And we were a healthier America.