WASHINGTON—The government has influenced the food Americans eat since the 1800s. An exhibit at the National Archives documents the evolution of food in America from farm, factory, kitchen, to table.
Featuring photos, maps, petitions letters, and video the exhibit shows American history through food.
Alice Kamp, exhibit curator, said: “I would hope Americans would get a new perspective on current concerns about food. It helps to look back and see that these are not new things, these are things that we have been struggling with since the beginning of our nation.”
Historical Moments
From early food explorers, who fought tigers in order to bring back seeds from the far reaches of the earth, to early food scientists who consumed newly engineered chemicals in order to understand the degree of their harmful affect on the body—innovation in food production has not come easily.
Prior to a 1902 U.S. Food and Drug Administration (USDA) investigation into the safety of food preservatives and chemical additives, they were largely unregulated. By eating foods laced with chemicals such as copper sulphate, boric acid, and formaldehyde, a group of scientists called the “Poison Squad” learned the hard way, that such chemicals can cause nausea, vomiting, and other negative effects when consumed.
Inspired by the results of the investigation, President Theodore Roosevelt passed the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906 to assure that “adulterated, unsafe, and misbranded foods” would not enter the U.S. market. Manufacturers soon began labeling products with the “Seal of Purity.”
During the Revolutionary War and world war periods, food was a critical weapon in the American arsenal. The public was urged to conserve, substitute, and cultivate food products.
The federal government commissioned nutritional research, leading to scientist W.O. Atwater introducing the idea of fats, proteins, carbohydrates, and calories to the public.
Not only was the health of soldiers an issue of national security, children’s nutrition was also treated as such.
War Food Administration promoted the school lunch program, which began as a child welfare program, but developed in order to ensure that children were well nourished and could grow into healthy soldiers.
Thiamin deficiency was found to cause a lack energy and motivation in Americans, and thiamin strengths a country mobilizing for war; it could not afford to be without it—thus Vitamin Donuts enriched with Vitamin B1 were promoted through vivid posters featuring children smiling at the sight of donuts.
The Presidential Impact
A portion of the exhibit is dedicated to the influence of presidents and first families on the American diet.
For example, when President Nixon completed his historic visit to China, a photograph of him eating Peking duck with chopsticks inspired more Americans to seek authentic Chinese food.
The foods of the presidents have become part of the historical record; just as the philosophy of the chefs serving the president have influenced society.
A White House pastry chef for 26 years, Chef Mesnier, promotes the need for more affordable organic food, and smaller portions.
“It was a very difficult process for me to choose and get very healthy fruit when I started at the White House,” said Mesnier.
After the Obamas took office, Michelle Obama made it a priority to encourage healthy eating. She tore up the White House lawn to plant a kitchen garden. She started a national campaign, “Lets Move,” to promote physical activity and educate parents about the harmful effects of childhood obesity.
Earlier this month, Mrs. Obama endorsed the latest incarnation of the USDA’s food icon, a visual reminder of the recommended proportions of grains, fruits, vegetables, proteins and dairy to be consumed in a healthy meal.
The purpose of the icon, which replaces the food pyramid, is to help Americans make better food choices.
What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam? is free. It will be on display in the Lawrence F. O’Brien Gallery of the National Archives Building in Washington, D.C., from June 10, through January 3, 2012.
The National Archives and Records Administration is the nation’s record keeper, storing and preserving 1 to 3 percent of all of legal or historical documents and materials created in the course of the operation of the federal government.
