They call Rome the Eternal City, and really it’s the perfect name. The Italian capital is ancient in ways that defy numbers, and which we can only just start to imagine. It’s a city that for centuries was the beneficiary of an empire that stretched across the known world, only enriching and enhancing the renown of its heart. Remember: There were days, long ago, when all roads led to Rome.
Today, evidence of these glory days remains everywhere around town. Literally thousands of years of culture and history and architecture, so many icons to see and stories to hear. On a half dozen (or more) trips here, I’ve only just scratched the surface. But we will do our best in this guide to see as much of an eternity as we can—in just 24 hours.
Arrival
Leonardo da Vinci International Airport, often known as Fiumicino Airport (FCO), is a major European hub, and the busiest place to land and take off in Italy. ITA Airways, the national flag bearer, connects Rome to many cities around the world, including Los Angeles, Washington, Toronto, and Miami. North American airlines fly here, too, including United, Delta, American, and Air Canada.Morning
This is definitely a city that can get hot and crowded and, I’ll be honest, a little frustrating, very quickly. The few sidewalks fill fast. Lines for major attractions can snake around the corner. There’s not a whole lot of shade to be found among the famous ruins.So I always get to the icons as soon as I can, while the air is still fresh, and people are still back at their hotels eating breakfast. (I’m not a morning person, but the advantages are worth the early-ish start.) Head straight to the Colosseum when it opens at 8:30 a.m., hopefully with a pre-booked ticket in hand.
While its image is ubiquitous around the world, nothing can quite prepare you for your first visit here. I stepped on these ancient stones for the first time more than two decades ago, as a backpacker.
The wonder and the history washed over me. I kept trying to picture what this place—which really, truly is the center of the Roman Empire—looked like, way back then, when animals were hunted, and gladiators battled to the death.
Initiated by one emperor (Vespasian) and completed by another (Titus), construction took about eight years. Opened in the year A.D. 80, the Colosseum held between 50,000 and 80,000 spectators. It wasn’t all blood and guts: This place also staged dramas and other theatrical endeavors.
Spend as much time as you like inside (allot at least an hour), then wander outside and around the paths that wind through the Roman Forum. This was where day-to-day life played out for Romans, who called it the Forum Magnum. Today, in a rectangular plaza between two hills, you can walk amongst the former temples and shrines and government buildings, columns and arches and domes dating back thousands of years.
Afternoon
Here’s the thing I’ve found about ancient ruins—and really, all major historical attractions. They are, of course, wonderful—sites that take us back in time, showing us, in detail, another era of life.But you can get your fill very quickly. If you have the energy and want to take the time, head a little to the north. There, about 20 minutes by transit, you can traverse the Spanish Steps and flip a coin into the Trevi Fountain. It’s a good-luck tradition that dates back to the pagans, and they say if you do so, you’ll return to Rome. (Fun fact: Those coins at the bottom of the fountain add up to about a million euros every year, and a Catholic charity uses the money to help the homeless.)
But at this point, with the heat and the crowds already building, I would make an escape. Hop on a bus to Trastevere. The trip, which will take you less than 20 minutes, transports you to another world.
Yes, Trastevere is trendy, and bound to be busy. But the vibe on the far side of the river is entirely different from the rest of Rome. The name of the neighborhood means “across the Tiber.” Once its isolation and tiny, winding cobblestone lanes were emblems of its poverty—the passages were too tight for carriages.
Now this happy labyrinth is lined with cool boutiques—record and thrift shops, places selling funny hats. And, key: lots of really good restaurants for lunch. Pick a place with a shady, breezy courtyard and settle down for a plate of steaming pasta, perhaps cacio e pepe. A simple, beautiful local favorite, with black pepper and pecorino Romano, paired, perhaps, with a chilled glass of Chianti.
Linger until you feel your energy flowing back. The afternoon isn’t over yet. In fact, you have a whole other country to visit.
The trip from Trastevere to Vatican City takes about 45 minutes on foot—or you can hop in an Uber or cab and get there in about 25 minutes. There’s no border to cross. But you’ll definitely know when you’ve arrived.
Vatican City is the world’s smallest sovereign state, by both significant measures—population and actual size. Home to only about 800 people, the whole country covers just 120 acres. It is the spiritual descendant of the once-powerful Papal States, when the pope was a political leader as well as a religious one.
Like at the Colosseum, my jaw dropped the first time I walked into St. Peter’s Basilica. The dome seems impossibly high, which is, I guess, a normal sensation, given that it’s the tallest in the world. Standing on the floor and craning your neck is a vertiginous experience—the cross, way up there at the top, is about 448 feet away.
Designed by Michelangelo, it took 800 workers less than two years to build the dome in the late 16th century. Entrance to the main part of the basilica is free and you don’t need a ticket. But, hot tip: There’s a dress code. Men need to remove their hats, and both men and women must cover up their knees and upper arms. So don’t show up in short shorts and a tank top.
Take your time to explore this huge church. You could spend hours here, exploring the crypt and climbing up the dome and marvelling at La Pietà and St. Peter’s tomb. Take a little walk outside, too, to the grand square surrounded by columns and statues.
Then proceed with the crush of crowds, ticket in hand, to visit the crown jewel: the Sistine Chapel. It might be a cliché, but it’s true: words fail to capture the complexity and wonder of “The Last Judgement,” the fresco up there on the ceiling.
Another cliché, yes: It is breathtaking. You may have seen Michelangelo’s greatest masterpiece a million times, on mousepads and postcards and the walls of Italian restaurants. But even though it’s hot and busy and security guards shoo you through, seeing this—being there—is nothing short of a spiritual experience.
Evening
It’s already evening. And if you don’t already have 20,000 steps in, you’ve been doing it wrong. Time to wind down.Beautiful by day, Rome looks even better after dark, with all of those ancient sites glowing with golden light. So take a ride on one of Italy’s most classic vehicles. Hop in the sidecar and let a driver zoom you around in a Vespa, visiting the Palatine Hill and Circus Maximus and the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum. Finishing in the best way possible: with coffee and gelato.
If you still have room, and energy, grab some dinner. After this busy day, I don’t recommend anything fancy (although the Michelin Guide does list 77 restaurants in Rome). Rather, walk a block in any direction, and grab a pizza. Chances are, it’ll be amazing.
