Once the heart of a vast empire, Austria’s capital contains all the beautiful and fascinating remnants of that long and illustrious history: the arts, from music and dance to galleries and studios; castles and gardens; culinary wonders, too.
Arrival
Vienna International Airport (VIE) serves as a major European hub, home of Austrian Airlines. Beyond other continental capitals, VIE also welcomes nonstop flights from around the world, including Tokyo and Bangkok and Addis Ababa, and North American cities like Chicago, New York, and Montreal.Morning
Hit the ground running, and start your day at the city’s most iconic landmark, St Stephen’s Cathedral. The history here is long: Builders broke ground back in 1137. Its current Romanesque and Gothic design took shape between the 13th and 15th centuries.
The square out front—Stephansplatz—is the geographic center of the city and its cobblestone crossroads. It’s worth standing here for a few minutes, as the magic and the mayhem swirls around you—the rhythm of a bustling capital.
And then, take a moment to marvel at the cathedral. This is, in a single place, the pride of Austria. Locals affectionately call it “Steffl.” Four towers rise, with the South Tower the tallest. At almost 450 feet, this makes St Stephen’s the tallest church in the country.
A kaleidoscope of colored tiles on the roof show off Vienna’s coat of arms, as well as the royal, double-headed eagle of the Habsburg Dynasty. The North Tower houses the Pummerin, one of 13 bells here, and one of the largest free-swinging church bells in Europe. Head inside to explore, and climb the 343 steps to the top of the South Tower to appreciate sweeping views of the labyrinthine streets of Old Town, also known as Innere Stadt.
Take a little time to get lost. The Innere Stadt rewards those who wander. Encircled by the Ringstrasse, a ring road that traces the former city walls, all four quarters (which correspond to former gates) are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. In addition to some of Vienna’s best-known historical buildings—city hall, the parliament building—the area is filled with interesting little stores, especially along Karntner Strasse, the main shopping street.
You’ve had a long flight, and a busy morning already. Fuel up on some of the city’s most famous beverage. The Viennese absolutely love their coffee—and UNESCO has recognized coffeehouse culture here as an intangible cultural heritage since 2011.
You’ll have your pick of places in Old Town. But Cafe Central is always a good choice and has been since the place opened its doors back in 1876. Settle in and people-watch a bit. If you speak any German, you might hear a hot debate at the next table—a long coffeehouse tradition. Enjoy the tinkling of a piano, in the background.
Strudel is always a lovely accompaniment to coffee, and Central has a very good patisserie. But if you’re a bit hungrier, this is a good spot for lunch. The menu includes local classics like Tafelspitz, a boiled-beef filet in broth, served with minced apples and horseradish (hearty sustenance for a busy upcoming afternoon).
Afternoon
You really can’t come to Vienna without visiting the Hofburg. The Habsburg Empire was once one of the most powerful in the world, stretching across Europe. From the year 1282 until its dissolution at the end of the First World War, this royal family ruled a diverse array of duchies and kingdoms and counties.And the Hofburg was the heart of it all and remains one of the largest palace complexes on the continent. Warning: This is the kind of place where you could spend an entire, happy day (or a week). In addition to serving as the official offices of Austria’s president, the Hofburg includes many museums and galleries.
Ramble, and you risk losing track of time. My recommendation: Choose a couple of highlights that appeal to you, and stick to them. The halls house all of the following: arms and armor, the imperial treasury, historic musical instruments, a silver collection, and so much more.
I’d say the two biggest standouts are the Imperial Apartments and the Sisi Museum. For the former, the tour of 24 rooms is, well, just beautiful. Dripping chandeliers and ceramic stoves, all rococo and stucco.
But there’s more to see here than the sheer opulence. The walk through the bedrooms, private salons, living rooms, and even bathrooms provides insights into the highs—and lows—of the lives of Franz Joseph I and his empress Elisabeth, better known by her nickname, Sisi.
The latter lived a dramatic and fascinating life through the second half of the 19th century. Still much beloved in Austria—she’s a legendary cultural figure here—Sisi grew up carefree in Bavaria. Her creativity and independent spirit followed her into the halls of power.
Her namesake museum at the Hofburg documents how she pushed back against traditional court life. She traveled, painted, and wrote poetry. The collection of more than 300 items includes watercolors she painted, as well as reconstructions of her wedding dress and her saloon rail car. On a darker note, it also showcases objects from her assassination in 1898, including her death mask, and a coat with egret feathers draped upon her on that fateful day.
Finish your afternoon nearby by walking through the life of another renowned Viennese, and a contemporary of Sisi. In the 19th century, Johann Strauss II enthralled this city with his compositions and conducting. Quadrilles, polkas, operettas—yes. But this man, who wrote ”The Blue Danube,” became known as a different type of royal—the King of Waltz.
Evening
Time for an early dinner. If you have them handy, you may want to don your formal clothes. Inside the historic Sacher Hotel, Michelin-listed Restaurant Rote Bar serves up Viennese classics using local ingredients. Think: an extraordinarily composed Wiener schnitzel (suckling veal with parsley potatoes) under glittering chandeliers and huge oil paintings, with live piano music, to add to the already-lovely atmosphere.
And the best part? Rote Bar is right across the street from the State Opera. Check the schedule, and just watch whatever’s playing. Part of the experience is simply enjoying a performance inside this graceful 1,700-seat Renaissance Revival venue.
But you’re bound to like the music, too. The State Opera offers one of the largest repertoires in the world, with more than 50 operas and ballets staged every year. The upcoming schedule includes Mozart’s “The Magic Flute” and Verdi’s “Don Carlos,” and many more.
Sit back. Relax. Enjoy. Let the notes wash over you, and let them ring in your ears as you emerge afterward. If you still have the energy, take one more stroll through the web of Innere Stadt, as the music carries you along the cobblestones.
