Its name is synonymous with beautiful things and the people who make them. And, perhaps more than anything else, with money, shopping, and stores that you probably cannot afford to shop in. (I certainly can’t.)
Arrival
Milan’s Malpensa Airport (MXP) sits 30 miles northwest of the city. Opened back in 1909, it was just recently named for controversial former prime minister Silvio Berlusconi. It is the second-busiest hub in the country, after Rome’s Fiumicino Airport. The two terminals at MXP receive direct nonstop flights from around the world, including a small handful of North American cities, including New York and Montreal.While taxis and ride-share services can carry you to the city core, probably the easiest and most cost-effective option is to take the train. The Malpensa Express will spirit you to Milano Centrale in about 50 minutes. A one-way ticket will set you back 13 euros, but if you know for sure you’ll be flying back out of MXP, buy the round-trip, which costs 20 euros if purchased online.
Morning
Yes, you should absolutely start right in the heart of the city, because Milan’s greatest icons are worth strolling through—especially earlier in the day, when the crowds tend to be lighter. And the Duomo is definitely a symbol of the city’s wealth and power through the ages.Formally known as the Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica of the Nativity of Saint Mary (although nobody actually calls it that), builders laid the first stones on this Gothic masterpiece in 1386. Over the six centuries of its construction, some of Europe’s greatest masters (including Leonardo da Vinci) came to work here. The Duomo is Italy’s largest church (not counting St. Peter’s Basilica, which is actually in Vatican City, a separate, independent micro-state).
You could truly spend a whole day—or an entire week, if you’re particularly detail-oriented—exploring this place. But to keep the program moving, you’re best to focus on the highlights. First, go down below to the archaeological area, where you’ll find the remnants of basilicas and a baptistery dating back to the fourth century, when Milan was the capital of the Western Roman Empire. Then, ascend to ground level and marvel at the sanctuary, with its soaring columns. They say the interior spaces here can comfortably fit 40,000 people. Just huge.
But probably the most unforgettable part? The terraces. Ride an elevator, then climb a couple staircases to a really big rooftop area covering the main nave. It is surrounded by 135 spires, with the Great Spire adorned by a golden Virgin Mary. Look down at the church, with its flying buttresses and 3,400 statues. The view is sweeping, where you can take in the busy square and city below, and the mountains edging the Po Valley on the horizon just beyond.
Next door is Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan’s other best-known symbol. While it is a busy and touristy place, the oldest shopping gallery in Italy does inspire awe, especially on a first visit. Mark Twain, for one, was a fan, writing in “A Tramp Abroad” that he’d like to live there forever.
All cast iron and glass, the Galleria is a place that draws your eyes to the skies, especially at the central Octagon, where an airy dome rises more than 150 feet above. While home to a number of designer stores (think: Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton), this salotto di Milano (Milan’s living room) also houses some of the city’s oldest and favorite restaurants, as well as a historic bookstore and plenty more.
It’s been a long, busy morning. Now is a good time to fuel up with a cappuccino or an espresso from one of the many classic Italian cafes inside or just nearby, and pair it with just a little something to tide you over (like a bite of beautiful focaccia).
Afternoon
As the day progresses, the city core will continue to get busier. So it’s best now to find a slower pace and a little green. But before you do, head to Peck. It is just a five-minute walk from the Galleria and somewhat tucked away on a side street. But this perpetually bustling shop, which started as a workshop for cured and smoked meats in 1883, showcases the best of Italian cuisine.You will find massive glass cases filled with so many kinds of cheese and sausages. Shelves and shelves of olives and olive oil. And truffle spreads, and wines, and pretty much anything else you can imagine from the Apennine Peninsula.
Take your time to browse—around every corner, you’ll find more and more culinary wonders. Plus, it’s fun to watch locals engaging with the expert, apron-clad staff, who definitely take their jobs very seriously. Curiously, right in the middle of the mayhem, literally surrounded by the shelves, you’ll find a small restaurant called Piccolo Peck.
It’s a neighborhood favorite, so you might have to wait in line, but this is an excellent place to grab lunch among the Milanese. Everything from light bites like carpaccio and crudités to heaping plates of pasta. Try the lasagne, or some meat ravioli smothered in a velvety tomato sauce and sprinkled with Parmigiano Reggiano.
Some of the hot selections from the menu are available at a take-away bar. So grab a few dishes to go, plus a bottle of vino, and take it for a picnic in Sempione Park. It’s just a 20-minute walk to the northwest—or, even easier, a nine-minute tram ride.
Sempione is a sufficiently grand place for Milan. Covering just under 100 acres, the park is home to a castle, an amphitheater, an art museum, a triumphal arch, and a 350-foot steel-beam tower. The latter is called the Torre Branca, and you can ride to the top and see out as far as the Alps.
Find a quiet spot to eat your lunch, perhaps by the small lake, near the Bridge of the Little Mermaids. You might spot a turtle swimming in the water. As the heat of the afternoon rises, enjoy the shade under spreading trees and take a walk along the winding paths through English-style gardens.
From there, hop on the subway (Milan’s metro system is fast, efficient, safe, and affordable), taking the Red Line east to another place of urban tranquility. A graceful house museum, Villa Necchi Campiglio is a snapshot in time and a picture of elegance, told through the lives of a 1930s industrialist family. Outside, well-trimmed hedges and stately trees dampen the sounds of the surrounding city, with a fountain flowing into a swimming pool.
Inside, you can still feel the essence of the family who lived here. Enthusiastic volunteer guides are posted at strategic points throughout the house, recounting the history and explaining elements of the design. Clothes remain in closets. Black-and-white photos sit on side tables. It feels like the Necchi Campiglios could’ve just left yesterday. “I come here as often as I can,” one guide said on a recent visit.
Evening
Now it’s time for a simple dinner before the big show. While Naples is the undisputed birthplace of perhaps Italy’s greatest export, pizza, the pizzaiolo who cook in the restaurants lining Milan’s labyrinthine lanes still make a mean pie. Swing by one of them for a couple of tried-and-true dishes—a Caprese salad, say, and then a wood-fired Margherita. (Hard to go wrong, but Da Regina 1985 is a good choice.)Then, spend the rest of the night at one of the world’s greatest opera houses, La Scala. It doesn’t matter what’s playing—just go. Even if you don’t particularly like what’s being performed, it’s worth it just to be there.
Inaugurated in 1778, Teatro alla Scala has for centuries staged operas by the world’s greatest composers and performers, playing to those many rising tiers of red and gold boxes. Today, the theater is also home to a ballet company and an orchestra. Sink into your seat. Let the music wash over you. And just know: sitting here, a busy day now done, you’re finishing off with the very best that Milan has to offer. Perfetto.
