The name Milan is synonymous with beautiful things and the people who make them. And, perhaps more than anything else, with money and stores that you probably cannot afford to shop in. (I certainly can’t.)
Arrival
Milan’s Malpensa Airport (MXP) sits 30 miles northwest of the city. Opened back in 1909, it is the second-busiest hub in the country, after Rome’s Fiumicino Airport. The two terminals at MXP receive direct nonstop flights from cities around the world, including a few North American ones, such as New York and Montreal.While taxis and ride-share services can carry you to the city core, probably the easiest and most cost-effective option is to take the train. The Malpensa Express will spirit you to Milano Centrale in about 50 minutes. A one-way ticket will set you back 13 euros ($14.51), but if you know you’ll be flying back out of MXP, buy the round-trip option, which costs 20 euros ($22.32) if purchased online.
Morning
You should start right in the heart of the city, because Milan’s greatest icons are worth strolling through—especially earlier in the day, when the crowds tend to be lighter.The Duomo is a symbol of the city’s wealth and power through the ages. In 1386, builders laid the first stones of this Gothic masterpiece. It’s formally known as the Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica of the Nativity of Saint Mary (although nobody actually calls it that). During the six centuries of the Duomo’s construction, some of Europe’s greatest masters (including Leonardo da Vinci) came to work here. The Duomo is Italy’s largest church (not counting St. Peter’s Basilica, which is in Vatican City, a separate, independent microstate).
You could truly spend a whole day—or an entire week, if you’re particularly detail-oriented—exploring this place. But to keep the program moving, focus on the highlights. First, go downstairs to the archaeological area, where you’ll find the remnants of basilicas and a baptistery dating back to the fourth century, when Milan was the capital of the Western Roman Empire. Then, ascend to ground level and marvel at the sanctuary, with its soaring columns. They say the interior spaces here can comfortably fit 40,000 people.
But the most unforgettable part is the terraces. Ride an elevator, then climb a couple staircases to a big rooftop area covering the main nave. It is surrounded by 135 spires, including the Great Spire adorned by a golden Virgin Mary. Look down at the church, with its flying buttresses and 3,400 statues. Then take in the busy square and city below, and the mountains edging the Po Valley on the horizon just beyond.
Next door is Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan’s other best-known symbol. While it is a busy and touristy place, the oldest shopping gallery in Italy does inspire awe, especially on a first visit. Mark Twain, for one, was a fan. He wrote in “A Tramp Abroad” that he’d like to live there forever.
All cast iron and glass, the galleria is a place that draws your eyes to the skies, especially at the central octagon, where an airy dome rises more than 150 feet overhead. While home to a number of designer stores (think Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton), this “salotto di Milano” (Milan’s living room) also houses some of the city’s oldest and most beloved restaurants, as well as a historic bookstore and plenty more.
It’s been a long, busy morning. Now is a good time to fuel up with a cappuccino or an espresso from one of the many classic Italian cafes inside the galleria or just nearby. Pair it with a little something to tide you over (like a bite of beautiful focaccia).
Afternoon
As the day progresses, the city core will get busier. So it’s best now to find a slower pace and a little green. But before you do, head to Peck. It is just a five-minute walk from the galleria and somewhat tucked away on a side street. But this bustling store, which started as a workshop for cured and smoked meats in 1883, showcases the best of Italian cuisine.You will find massive glass cases filled with many kinds of cheese and sausage, shelves and shelves of olives and olive oil, truffle spreads, wines, and pretty much anything else you can imagine from the Apennine Peninsula.
Take your time to browse—around every corner, you’ll find more culinary wonders. Plus, it’s fun to watch locals engaging with the apron-clad staff, who take their jobs very seriously. Curiously, right in the middle of the mayhem, surrounded by the shelves, you’ll find a small restaurant called Piccolo Peck.
It’s a neighborhood favorite, so you might have to wait in line, but this is an excellent place to grab lunch among the Milanese. You can order everything from light bites, like carpaccio and crudités, to heaping plates of pasta. Try the lasagne, or some meat ravioli smothered in a velvety tomato sauce and sprinkled with Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Some of the hot selections from the menu are also available at a takeaway bar. So grab a few dishes to go, plus a bottle of vino, and have a picnic in Sempione Park. It’s just a 20-minute walk to the northwest—or a nine-minute tram ride.
Sempione is a suitably grand park for Milan. Covering almost 100 acres, it is home to a castle, an amphitheater, an art museum, a triumphal arch, and a 350-foot-tall steel-beam tower. The latter is called the Torre Branca, and you can ride to the top and see out as far as the Alps.
Find a quiet spot to eat your lunch, perhaps by the small lake, near the Bridge of the Little Mermaids. You might spot a turtle swimming in the water. As the heat of the afternoon rises, enjoy the shade under spreading trees and take a walk along the winding paths through English-style gardens.
From there, hop on the subway (Milan’s metro system is fast, efficient, safe, and affordable), taking the Red Line east to another place of urban tranquility. A graceful house museum, Villa Necchi Campiglio is a picture of elegance. It is preserved as it was in the 1930s when the industrialist Necchi Campiglio family lived here. Outside, a fountain flows into a swimming pool. Well-trimmed hedges and stately trees muffle the sounds of the surrounding city.
Inside, you can still feel the essence of the family who lived there. Enthusiastic volunteer guides are posted at strategic points throughout the house to recount its history and explain elements of the design. The family’s clothes remain in the closets. Black-and-white photos sit on side tables. It feels like the Necchi Campiglios just left yesterday.
Evening
Now it’s time for a simple dinner before the big show. While Naples is the undisputed birthplace of perhaps Italy’s greatest export, pizza, the “pizzaiolo” (pizza makers) who cook in the restaurants lining Milan’s labyrinthine lanes also make a mean pie. Swing by one of these pizzerias for a couple of tried-and-true dishes—a caprese salad, say, and then a wood-fired Margherita. (Hard to go wrong, but Da Regina 1985 is a good choice.)Then, spend the rest of the night at one of the world’s greatest opera houses, La Scala. It doesn’t matter what’s playing—just go. It’s worth it just to be there.
Inaugurated in 1778, Teatro alla Scala has staged operas by the world’s greatest composers and performers for centuries. Today, the theater, with its many tiers of red and gold boxes, is also home to a ballet company and an orchestra.
Sink into your seat. Let the music wash over you. You’re finishing off your busy day with the very best that Milan has to offer. “Perfetto.”
