Crowds gathered around to watch a photo shoot of several models wearing Han couture at Xuanwu Lake in Nanjing, China, last spring. The classical Chinese dresses worn by the models were designed and handmade by designers Xiao Xiong and Jia Tong. The designers publicize their latest designs monthly. But if you want to own one of their creations, be prepared to be on a long waiting list.
Inspired by Traditional Culture and Styles
Xiao Xiong said that her passion for traditional Chinese culture and background in costume design brought her to this work, while Jia Tong, a novelist, attributed her inspiration to classical Chinese literature, especially the works by the poet Li Houzhu. When the two designers first posted photos of a set of simple Han clothing items they designed for themselves, they received positive responses beyond their imagination.
With the enthusiasm and support from fans, the designers immersed themselves in researching and studying classical Chinese clothing. Xiao said that many of their designs were slowly perfected through painstaking research and brainstorming. Most of their designs are based on designs from the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Period as well as the Tang and Ming dynasties.
Each Ensemble a Work of Art
Xiao described their design production as a very complicated process, saying it is very difficult to find the same materials today that were used in the past, such as natural versions of hemp, silk, and specialized cotton.
Since the patterns and colors of fabric are very different from ancient times, the designers often design patterns and dye fabrics themselves. They also handcraft the headdresses that complement the dresses.
Demand Exceeds Supply
Since they started to sell their designs online a year ago, Xiao and Jia have received more orders than they can produce. Their production rate is currently about 20 pieces a month, and the prices range from 400 to 1,000 yuan ($59–$146).
In recent years, Han couture clothing has made a comeback. It is often worn for traditional events such as the Chinese New Year and festivals such as the Flower Festival, Girl’s Festival, and Shangsi Festival.