Boiling with volcanic energy just below the Arctic Circle, Iceland brings the drama like few countries do. Equal parts fire and ice, this country’s rugged beauty has only begun to beckon visitors over the past couple of decades. You might be waiting out a long connection on Icelandair, or this could be your first day of a larger trip to the soaring geysers and crashing waterfalls and pitch-black lava tubes across the island nation.
Arrival
It’s often misunderstood: International flights do not land in Reykjavik. The country’s major entry point was built on the footprint of a U.S. World War II military base, on a windblown point about 45 minutes outside of the capital. Although somewhat inconvenient, it must be said: Keflavik International Airport (KEF) is a rather lovely place to arrive—small and bright, warm and friendly.
Morning
Iceland is located where two tectonic plates meet. The resulting geothermal activity underneath and around Reykjavik is a true wonder. The original geyser—call Geysir—is close by. Rivers steam up, mud pots and fumaroles bubble and pop. Volcanic eruptions still happen near town. Here, the earth’s mantle melts and breaks through the thin crust in many fascinating ways.
These volcanic outbursts have a number of fortunate spin-off effects. One: The majority of power in Iceland is harvested from clean, very inexpensive geothermal sources. The other? Beautiful hot spring baths.
Plan to spend your entire morning at the Sky Lagoon. Close to Reykjavik’s city center, here is where you can feel the fatigue fade away as you wade into the steaming waters, fed by natural hot springs. Smaller and more upscale than the famous Blue Lagoon (which is out near Keflavik), the views here pair nicely with the warm well-being instilled by these waters.
You’ll take in a vista that includes glaciers, mountain peaks, and the waves of the North Atlantic Ocean, as well as the charming multicolored buildings of the city, plus planes landing and taking off at the nearby domestic airport. Experience the Seven-Step Ritual, a traditional Nordic spa wellness routine, which alternates between heat and cold and applications of body scrubs and other elements.
You might be tempted to grab lunch here. There’s a very nice on-site cafe, but you still have a whole city to explore. So grab the bus to the middle of town, and keep the wheels in motion.
Afternoon
It’s definitely time for a snack. Perhaps the most famous food outlet in Reykjavik is a bit surprising: the Baejarins Beztu Pylsur. Translated as “the town’s best hotdogs,” the hot dog stand has been serving hungry customers since 1937.Honestly, the dogs are pretty good, and quite inexpensive, in a very pricey city. Situated in a small, tucked-away square, the stand often has a long line, but the staff keep it moving. The best way to eat it? Make your dog messy, with house-made crispy onions, remoulade, and a local sweet brown mustard called pylsusinnep.
Then, walk it off, strolling around Reykjavík’s compact core. Ascend the hill to Hallgrimskirkja, the Evangelical-Lutheran parish church. Its white, winged spire is the symbol of the city, and you can see it from pretty much anywhere. Named after a 17th-century poet, it took builders over four decades to construct, with the finishing touches completed fairly recently in 1986.
After snapping a few photos out front with the statue of Norse explorer Leif Erikson, continue to Laugavegur, the city’s main shopping street. Browse the bookstores for a Nordic noir novel and the souvenir shops for warm knit sweaters.
Take a break at the Lebowski Bar. Gaudy in all the best ways, this is a funky place dedicated to The Dude from the cult classic 1998 film “The Big Lebowski.” There’s an extensive list of White Russians: in the film, the super-slacker character played by Jeff Bridges is always consuming this curious cocktail, which mixes together coffee liqueur, vodka, and fresh cream. Plus, there’s a nice menu of elevated pub grub, if those hot dogs weren’t quite enough for lunch.
One of Reykjavik’s greatest charms is the fact that wild country—and wildlife—is so close by. Wander a few blocks down to the city’s busy Old Harbour and book onto a boat cruise. Depending on the season, you can spot humpback whales, and all sorts of bird life.
Perhaps the most adorable of them all are the puffins. Almost comically cute, with their huge orange beaks, these little members of the auk family come to Iceland by the millions to nest and breed. You can see a lot, in a very short time. Tours to colonies with as many as 30,000 puffins, on nearby islands, will last as little as an hour. You’ll see them nestled into the crags of cliffs and flying impossibly fast overhead. On the way back, the views of rugged green mountains and the colorful city, strung along the shore, are a nice bonus.
Evening
Are you ready for another steamy soak? Get that swimsuit back out of your bag. While the Sky Lagoon is undeniably stylish and lovely, it is mostly frequented by visitors.Icelanders have a strong hot springs culture, spending time in the pools as part of their daily routine. Probably the best place to enjoy a soak alongside the locals is at Sundhollin. From the harbor, it’s an easy, but longish walk (about two miles). This might be the right time to grab a taxi, which will carry you there in less than 10 minutes (and will set you back perhaps $20 or even less than that).
Sundhollin, Reykjavik’s “swimming palace,” every bit lives up to its name. Opened in 1937, it was designed in grand style by the state architect at the time, Guojon Samuelsson, who also drew up the plans for Hallgrimskirkja, as well as the National Theatre and other prominent buildings across town. There’s the big main indoor pool, as well as a series of hot tubs, a cold tub, steam rooms, and a sauna.
The cost of entry is modest (about $10). At this time of day, you’ll notice locals dropping in as a sort of after-work happy hour. Grab a couple of cold beers at a convenience store beforehand and join them. The rooftop hot tubs are especially busy and fun, at this time of day. Most Icelanders speak English, and there’s a communal vibe—it’s a good time to ask them about their lives in this remote city.
As the day winds down, it’s time to think about dinner. Walk to nearby Three Coats. Real Icelandic cuisine isn’t so easy to find in Reykjavik, and this place serves up some of the best.
Start with the hakarl, if only to get it out of the way. This is Iceland’s national dish, fermented Greenland shark. Traditionally, it is preserved by burying the fish meat in a gravel hole for up to 12 weeks. Over the ages, in a time before refrigeration, this fish provided important protein during the country’s harsh winters.
Today, trying a couple of bites is a quintessential experience. It tastes, in a word, awful. Think of fish covered in blue cheese and left out in the sun for a while, and you can start to imagine the flavor. Even the late Anthony Bourdain, famously a fan of what he called peasant food, noted that hakarl was “the single worst, most disgusting and terrible tasting thing.” Order a shot of aquavit to chase down the shark, which will take care of any remaining taste in your mouth. (It’s unpleasant for a moment, but you’ll have a great story to tell for the rest of your life.)
Then, settle in for a nice dinner. The menu here offers everything from pan-fried salted cod to garlic-sautéed halibut to guillemot breasts (a local seabird), served up with a house-made game sauce. Cap off your meal with a crème brûlée made with skyr, a traditional Icelandic yogurt.
Finish your day with an evening performance at the Harpa concert hall. Set right on the water, along the shoreline sculpture walk, its honeycomb glass design makes this another of Reykjavik’s most recognizable buildings. It is a lovely space to end your busy time here, listening to the sounds of the Icelandic Opera or the Iceland Symphony Orchestra. Relax, enjoy, and recharge for whatever fiery and icy adventures await tomorrow.
