Gammon wasn’t referring to the flavor of Totonno’s pizza. Owner Louise Cininieri says her grandfather’s recipe has carried through 87 years of business. Gammon was talking about the different restaurants that have sprung up in the area over the years—signs of the greater changes in the beach community.
Spanish food and Asian food, if you go further toward Brighton Beach, or Sheepshead Bay, Eastern European flavors pervade.
“I miss what we once had, [but] I enjoy these Russian nightclubs,” says Martin Novitsky, who was born and raised in the beach community. “I think that it’s a fantastic experience. You feel like you’re in Russia … it’s like going on vacation.”
In the 1970s and ’80s it was a much different place. Lively fish markets lined the docks. Merchants called out: “Catch of the day!” Young people hung out in front of shops with radios.
“I miss the old-style hangouts and the old luncheonettes where people would hang out and talk about baseball and football, and [I miss] the old-time candy stores,” reminisced Novitsky.
What were once empty lots are now condos and shopping centers, Russian bakeries and nightclubs. The newspapers are in Russian, the storefronts promote sales in the Cyrillic alphabet, and the whole aesthetic has changed.
“They’ve done a lot of great things. They cleaned up the area, there are a lot of beautiful clothes here,” says Notitsky laughing at the old jeans and t-shirt attire native to the area—a sharp contrast to the refined European sense of style. “They’ve made this a little European village,” he concluded.
Emilio Paraskevakis has worked at the well-known and well-loved seafood joint, Randazzo’s, on Emmons Ave. for over 30 years.
He says the fishing community has “died a little bit, but life goes on—change—nothing stays the same. But, it’s for the better.”
The fishing boats have been replaced by party boats, and Randazzo’s now gets its seafood from Long Island.
Randazzo’s once had three separate locations along the same strip: an Italian restaurant, a clam bar, and surf-and-turf, explained Elena Randazzo, 25. She is part of the fifth generation to run the restaurant. Her great-great grandfather was a fisherman and her great grandmother created the signature sauce that accompanies the delectable Randazzo dishes to this day.
Randazzo’s shared the strip with Lundy’s seafood restaurant and the roast beef specialists at Roll-n-Roaster.
Lundy’s is now a Russian supermarket, Roll-n-Roaster remains, Randazzo’s has consolidated into one location, and some new neighbors have joined them: Masal Turkish cafe, Sushi restaurants, El Greco diner, and shopping malls.
“The places that are left are all the best,” asserts Novitsky. People come from all over to eat at restaurants such as Randazzo’s, and those who grew up in the area always return for a good Scungilli.
A Tantalizing Tour
Some of the epicurean landmarks that remain are rated among the best, and draw celebrities, tourists, and locals alike. Most of them feature recipes over 50 years old that are tried, tested, and true. They maintain a connection to the past, continuity in an ever-changing world.
Gargiulo’s Italian restaurant was established on Coney Island in 1907 and remains in the family. It has enjoyed the patronage of high-profile patrons such as Donald Trump. For hot dogs and fries, Nathan’s remains a famed favorite on Coney Island. It started in 1916 as a humble hot dog stand and won international acclaim when Franklin D. Roosevelt served the King and Queen of England the now-famous ‘dogs.
For Spumoni (Italian ice cream) after a hot day at the beach, locals and visitors have enjoyed Spumoni Gardens for over 70 years. Di Fara Pizza on Avenue J has drawn its share of celebrities in 50 years of operation, and Roll-n-Roaster remains the best place to get a good roast beef sandwich, says Novitsky.
Some Borscht With My Pizza, Please
Novitsky is not so sure the Russian immigrant population appreciates the jewels in their midst. They have a different palate, he says, “To them it’s just an American restaurant.”
“It’s not about going eating, they live for Saturday night,” says Novitsky of the impression he gets from his Russian friends. “They know how to party, they know how to live, how to enjoy themselves, how to enjoy life.”
Novitsky spends some evenings at the Russian nightclubs. You pay a fixed price for unlimited food he explained, relishing the extravagant “banquet” as they call it. Novitsky suggests bringing friends to share the cheer and the cost—it’s the right price for a group.
Before the Russian banquets, Randazzo’s was a hip place to hang out on a Friday night. Randazzo says people tell her about the old days in the 1970s and ’80s, when a crowd would stay late into the night. They would jump off the docks for a moonlight dip and enjoy some good company and good seafood.
With the arrival of the Russian nightlife, the restaurant began to close its doors earlier, now calling it quits at midnight on the weekends.
“We'll still be here,” said Randazzo, “come what may.” Gammon expressed a similar sentiment, with a hint of nostalgia for the old Brooklyn he knew growing up:
“It’s good that a lot of entrepreneurs want to come in and do their thing, but there’s a price to pay with everything. We just keep doing our thing—we’ve been here for 87 years.”
Novitsky says he enjoys the Turkish cafes like Masal, because he can have a coffee, sit by the water and feel like he’s in Europe. But, a night at Totonno’s remains a favored tradition among the friends he has grown up with in the beach community.
“Ironically, the best restaurants in Brooklyn are Gargiulo’s and Sahara, a Turkish restaurant,” mused Novitsky.