Close your eyes and conjure up images of French cuisine. What do you see? Perhaps a busy little brasserie on the Left Bank of the Seine, or a patio along the bustling Boulevard Saint-Germain, or a perfect croque madame in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. Yes, it’s true—especially in this Olympic year—Paris gets all the attention.
But ask anyone in France where they’ll find the culinary capital of the country, and they will reply very quickly: Lyon. France’s “second city,” down south, straddles two great rivers. It is surrounded by farms producing so many fresh ingredients, from poultry to cheese, and serves up some of the best food you’ll find anywhere. (People joke that the city’s third river is the nearby Beaujolais wine region, which is always flowing.)
And it’s not just pricey Michelin-starred fare—here, great meals are available for every budget. So if you have 24 hours in the city, here are ways to taste the best. Then, work it off by touring Lyon’s other amazing attractions.
Arrival
Lyon-Saint-Exupéry Airport (LYS) sits 13 miles southeast of the city center. Unless you’re flying in from Montreal (which has a nonstop, direct flight), your journey from North America will probably involve a connection in Paris or another European hub. Getting into town is easy: Just take the Rhonexpress tram-train link, which will get you into the middle of the city in half an hour, for about 15 euros (around $16).Morning
Paul Bocuse was a towering figure in French cuisine, to the extent that many anointed him the “pope of gastronomy.” The Michelin Guide, no less, calls him “a hero and a model for many master chefs today.” He was from Lyon, and his namesake restaurant here had three Michelin stars—the highest possible rating.
You’ll find a perfect introduction to Lyonnais cuisine at the city’s main food market, which bears his name—Les Halles de Lyon-Paul Bocuse. And if you skipped the soggy-egg breakfast on the plane (which, I hope you did), this is the perfect place to pick up a bite, amidst the swirl of locals doing some fresh morning shopping. Take your pick among 48 stalls (and several restaurants), all serving French deliciousness.
Think: gooey Camembert, flaky croissants, fresh oysters, bright produce, and about a million other options, both savory and sweet. For your breakfast snack, think about visiting a few stands. Perhaps combine a chewy, fresh baguette with some charcuterie and the cheese of your choice from a fromagerie.
Now, it’s time to work it off—and earn an appetite for lunch. La Croix-Rousse is a world apart, a neighborhood set high atop a hill of the same name, some 800 feet up from the rest of the city. Locals will tell you that this is “the hill that works.” (It faces Fourvière, “the hill that prays,” Lyon’s other famous rise, which is home to many monasteries and churches.) If you’re feeling really fit, you can walk it, but an easier option is to take the Métro (the latter will get you there in about 20 minutes and cost you 2 euros).
Lyon’s history is rooted in hard work. It was the silk industry that put this city on the map. While dating back to the 1500s, things really got going in the early 19th century; the air was cleaner at these higher altitudes, so they moved the workshops up the hill. Here, silk was made and traded. The workers named “canuts” staged revolts and uprisings, protesting their poor work conditions.
Today, things are very peaceful, but Croix-Rousse maintains a village feel and a distinct identity from the rest of Lyon. No longer industrial, these high-ceilinged buildings (built that way to accommodate looms) are now filled with boutiques and cafes, and part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can navigate yourself up and down these steep streets and lanes, or hire a guide who can explain the significance of the many “traboules.” (From the Latin for “pass-through,” these passages cut through buildings from street-to-street, and often contain cool hidden courtyards.)
Either way, there are a couple sites you just can’t miss. The Fresque des Canuts is the largest mural in Europe, and the bright painting, created in 1987 but updated more than once to reflect changes, blends together the district’s vibrant past and dynamic present. (You won’t believe quite how huge it is, until you’re standing right in front of it.) The Amphitheatre of Three Gauls, at the base of the hill, was built by the Romans way back in A.D. 19, and expanded by Emperor Hadrian about 100 years later. At its peak, the theater could seat as many as 20,000 people. It was uncovered in the 19th century, but serious excavation didn’t take place until the 1950s.
Afternoon
Head down the hill, to Presqu’île, the heart of Lyon. In French, this means “almost an island,” and while technically a peninsula, this downtown district is almost completely surrounded by water. On one side, the Rhône flows, and to the south, the Saône.
It’s been a big morning. You’re almost certainly ready for lunch, and that’s always a very good thing in Lyon. Find a good “bouchon” for lunch. These small, informal restaurants (often decorated with checked tablecloths and clad in warm wood walls) were born when women started home cooking for the canuts in the 1800s. They created simple, hearty, filling, delicious meals on a strict budget for these workers.
Bouchons remain a favorite gathering place for the Lyonnais, especially at lunchtime. At a good bouchon, a crowd slowly builds until every table is full. Everyone talks to everyone. There’s a convivial spirit amongst the diners. And, of course, they serve up steaming plates that you won’t soon forget.
Look for a chalkboard to see what’s on the menu today. Cervelle de canut—literally, “brain of a silk worker”—is a satisfying starter, with creamy cheese mixed with various herbs, shallots, and olive oil. Then, continue with something hearty, like tablier de sapeur, a beef tripe steak marinated in white wine, lemon, mustard and various seasonings, then breaded and fried. (Trust me, you’ll really like it.)
Tarry awhile at the bouchon, enjoying the atmosphere. Ask to speak with the chef—they’re always characters, joking with the diners who come through. Then, enjoy wandering around Presqu’ile. Walk from river to river, striding out on the bridges to feel the power of the flow beneath you. Ramble around Place Bellecour, the largest pedestrian urban square in Europe. There’s a statue of Louis XIV in the middle, and you can get a sweeping view of your surroundings from the 200-foot-high Ferris Wheel.
For the rest of the afternoon, you have plenty of options. The Museum of Fine Arts is housed in a beautiful building, a former 17th-century Benedictine monastery, and its huge collection showcases some of the greatest European masters, from El Greco to Rubens.
Or, for something entirely different, cross the Saône. Pass the Saint-Jean-Baptiste Cathedral into the crowded, cobblestone streets of Old Lyon. There, check out the Cinema and Miniature Museum. It is quirky and super-fun, with costumes and other items from the sets of so many films you’ve probably seen—Spider-Man, Indiana Jones, Terminator 2, Alien, and plenty more.
Evening
For dinner, you can go fancy—or fun. For the former, the Michelin Guide has 86 entries in Lyon, with 18 of those restaurants achieving at least one star (more than some countries). Search online for Bib Gourmand restaurants, which deliver quality, high-end food for a reasonable price (For example: Le Tiroir, a bistro that serves up French classics like beef tartare in a blue-collar district), or just blow the budget at, for example, Restaurant Paul Bocuse (although reservations can be hard to come by).
For fun, take a two-and-a-half-hour dinner cruise on the Hermès. Prepared fresh in the kitchen on board with local ingredients, you’ll be served a three-course tasting menu, as the boat spirits you around the city. Steaming gourmet food with locally sourced ingredients on the table, while the lights of Lyon twinkle above, I’ll tell you—it’s (almost) enough to make you forget Paris.
