It’s a city with many nicknames: O-Town, The Land of the Mouse, and, the one you might not expect, The City Beautiful. No matter what name you use, Orlando is a magnet to the world, sitting right there in the former swamps of Central Florida, and that is, of course, because of one thing: the theme parks. Take your pick from Walt Disney World to Universal Studios and many smaller ones in between.
Arrival
Some have speculated that the airport code for Orlando International Airport—MCO—is an allusion to the city’s most famous mouse. But it turns out, it has nothing to do with Mickey. The airport is built on what was once McCoy Air Force Base, which shut down in 1975—thus the code.While not a major hub, MCO receives nonstop flights from all over the world—London, Dublin, São Paulo, Dubai. All major North American carriers also land here. The airport sits about six miles southeast of downtown, and you’ll find various ways into the core, including taxis, shuttles, ride-shares and even a public transit bus. But, with the city very much spread out and divided into distinct districts, Orlando is definitely a city where you’ll want to rent a car.
Morning
Once you get your rental, drive about half an hour north, then leave the car for a while in Winter Park. This is arguably Orlando’s coolest neighborhood, and the perfect place to shake off any jet lag, and get out for a stroll. Once a totally separate community, the town got its start with a new railway line in the 1880s.
Businessmen from the North fell in love with the area, which is dotted with lakes, and built a pre-planned, postcard-perfect place. Things really got going when the Seminole Hotel, an elaborate resort, opened in 1886. Guests at the time enjoyed rare luxuries, from steam heating to gas lights. They spent their days riding horses, playing croquet, and sailing, and spent evenings bowling at the alley and dancing to the music played by a string orchestra.
Leave your car near Park Avenue, then walk the cobblestones under lines of big, shady trees dripping with Spanish moss. You’re bound to be a little hungry. Fortunately, this is probably the best place in town to find some breakfast. The Croissant Gourmet Bakery delivers buttery, flakey French perfection with so many options, from a savory croissant Florentine or Benedict to your choice of all sorts of sweet fillings.
Then, continue to explore. The grid work of streets is lined with lots of distractions—from small galleries to specialty boutiques. But this is also a fantastic opportunity to experience the natural attractions that first drew the wealthy and famous to this location.
You can take a guided tour in a clear-bottomed kayak through the nearby chain of lakes and Venetian canals. Or if you’re feeling tired from the flight, sit back and relax on a scenic boat tour. The dock is just a five-minutes walk from the bakery, and the little boat will spirit you into a lush, tropical world of palms and cypress trees lining the water—keep your eyes open for swooping cranes or even resident alligators.
Afternoon
If you have the time—and the energy—Winter Park also has a number of cool museums to check out. House museums really, truly, always fascinate. A visit to one isn’t just a walk through a historically and architecturally significant building. Because this was someone’s home, it’s also the story of a family—a peek behind the scenes. In many cases, you can almost feel the former residents, and certainly picture these people, living their best lives in these spaces.
Casa Feliz—“Happy House”—brings that all together. In the 1930s, Robert Bruce Barbour, an industrialist and one of Winter Park’s biggest movers and shakers, commissioned architect James Gamble Rogers II to build him a house on the shores of Lake Osceola. Barbour gave Gamble free rein to design whatever he liked. The result: a handsome Andalusian-style farmhouse. The home is now registered on the National Register of Historic Places, and docents give regular tours.
Then keep the tour of subtropical green spaces going with a visit to Lake Eola Park. Right in the heart of Orlando, you’ll reach it (by car) in about 20 minutes. This really is a jewel in the crown of the city. Downtown Orlando’s towers rise above the lake, their glassy faces reflected in the water.
Walk or jog the almost-mile-long path that circles Eola, or take a more leisurely approach, paddling a little swan-shaped boat out onto the calm lake. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a farmer’s or artisan market, or a performance at the Walt Disney Amphitheater.
And now? It’s the perfect time for a light lunch. Relax Grill has a tree-shaded patio, right on the lake, and nice Mediterranean bites. Exhale, enjoy an afternoon cocktail and the breezes off the water, as the afternoon heat builds.
Then, head southwest along Interstate 4—away from the city center, and toward the theme parks—before rush hour begins. As the Florida sun shines and the humidity settles, this is the perfect time to chill. Take a siesta or sit poolside at your hotel. Maybe even browse a bit—in air-conditioned comfort—at the upscale (and lovely) Mall at Millenia. Cool down and get ready for the fun night ahead.
Evening
