24 Hours in Warsaw

Big changes have transformed the city into Poland’s capital of cool.

Warsaw, located on the Vistula River, is the capital and largest city of Poland. Alexander Spatari/Getty Images

For many years, despite being Poland’s capital, Warsaw shrunk in the shadow of Krakow’s spectacular town square and soaring medieval towers. By comparison, Warsaw was often seen as drab and workaday, with a skyline dominated by a Soviet monolith. But in the past decade or so, big changes have been happening.

Now, Warsaw is Poland’s capital of cool. New museums have transformed the tourist landscape, and innovative (and delicious) bars and restaurants have made this city of almost 2 million a culinary magnet for mixologists and chefs. Now, 24 hours isn’t even close to enough time to see all of the main attractions. But with this guide, we’re going to do our very best.

Arrival

Warsaw’s Chopin Airport (WAW) is by far the busiest in the country. Named for the 19th-century Romantic composer and pianist Frederic Chopin, it’s the hub for the national flag carrier. LOT Polish Airlines connects the city to the whole world, with nonstop flights to European capitals, as well as far-flung places such as Mumbai and Tokyo. Plus, it also links to a number of North American cities, including New York, Miami, Toronto, and Los Angeles.

The airport sits in a very convenient location for a quick start, just five or six miles southwest from the city center. That means a taxi or Uber will take just 20 minutes to get you into the thick of things. But consider taking the metro, which is easy and cheap. The airport finished an underground train station in 2012, in time to shuttle fans into town for that year’s Euro soccer tournament. A reduced-fare ticket on the subway will set you back a little more than 50 cents (and a full fare, about $1).

Morning

Start in the heart of it all. In this case, the best public transit option to get to Castle Square in Old Town is the bus. The trip takes about 45 minutes. Then walk right onto the cobblestones.

Warsaw’s historic core dates back to the 1200s. When you arrive, check out Sigismund’s Column, which dominates Castle Square. If the breakfast on the plane was a little light, enjoy an extravagant morning meal at Restaurant Literatka, right there on the square. Fuel up for a busy day on staples such as scrambled eggs, ham, and crispy bacon. Served up in a stylish space, with views to the Vistula River.

Once upon a time, sovereign monarchs reigned in Poland, and for hundreds of years, Warsaw’s Royal Castle was their home. Like most of Old Town, the castle was destroyed in World War II, and has since been lovingly and meticulously rebuilt. All of Old Town was accorded UNESCO World Heritage status in 1980.

Warsaw's historic district was heavily damaged during World War II, but was rebuilt using the centuries-old paintings of Bernardo Bellotto for reference. Andrey Danilovich/Getty Images

The Royal Castle is the kind of place where you could spend an entire day. So, be selective about what you see and do once inside. Recommended, for sure: the Royal Apartments, which were designed to reflect the era of King Stanislaw August, who held power from 1764 to 1795.

Also, don’t skip the parliamentary chambers, including the senate hall. This was where legislators of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth signed the Constitution of 1791. This was the first modern democratic constitution in Europe. It promoted freedom, equality, and religious tolerance, and it created a constitutional monarchy.

L: The Throne Room, in Warsaw‘s Royal Castle, was the last seat of the Polish monarchs. R: The King's Bedchamber in the Royal Castle in Warsaw. agsaz/Shutterstock, Nowaczyk/Shutterstock

If there’s time, you could quickly swing through the porcelain gallery, as well as an art gallery with 600 exhibits, including a couple of Rembrandts. But definitely get back outside into the sun, so you can wander around Old Town. The reconstruction is so complete and perfect that you would honestly never know that more than 85 percent of it was razed by German soldiers.

Stroll past churches and townhouses and through the marketplace. And a must-see: the Barbican. Part of the city walls, it’s an impressive gate at the northern edge of Old Town. Snap a few photos, and browse the arts and crafts offered beneath.

The Warsaw Barbican was originally built in 1540 by architect Jan Baptist of Venice. BreizhAtao/Shutterstock

Afternoon

Make your way to Milk Bar. From Old Town Square, it’s only 20 minutes on foot (or eight minutes by taxi or Uber). A throwback lunch awaits.

During the darkest days of Polish communism, bar mleczny (milk bars) served up bland, super-cheap meals to the masses. A guide once shared with me that these cafeterias were so low-rent, the knives and forks were tethered to the tables with strings.

Milk Bar Warsaw isn’t that—it’s a place with soft blue banquettes and Italian terrazzo floors. But the menu includes a number of Polish favorites. Simple but elevated. A good choice for a sweet and savory lunch? The pierogies with blueberries, blackberries, tarragon, and cream.

Pierogi can be savory or sweet, with fillings such as potato and cheese (pierogi ruskie); meat, sauerkraut, and mushroom; or seasonal fruit such as blueberries. Alexander Spatari/ Getty Images

Once fortified, stretch your legs in the surrounding few blocks. Just to the north, the Library Garden at the University of Warsaw has to be seen to be believed. It’s one of the largest rooftop gardens in Europe, covering a total surface of about 2 1/2 acres. There’s a cascading stream, fish pond, pergolas, and bridges. Plus, it has some of the best views in the city.

Just to the east, a network of paths traces a series of interconnected green spaces along the Vistula. Make your way south to the Mermaid Statue, grab a coffee from a barge cafe, and enjoy this beautiful riverside site.

A 10,000-square-foot rooftop garden sits on top of the University of Warsaw Library, complete with a stream, fish pond, and granite sculptures. Dziurek/Shutterstock

But don’t tarry long. Vodka awaits. And now, you may have choices to make.

The two best museums in Warsaw (in my opinion) now remain for the rest of the afternoon. In an ideal world, you could visit both—and maybe you can.

Option one, a few miles to the west: Opened on the 60th anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising, the Warsaw Rising Museum commemorates and brings to life that heroic but ultimately tragic event. In the summer of 1944, the Polish resistance made a massive push, fighting German occupation to establish a free and independent capital. Many thousands died, including as many as 250,000 civilians, and the vast majority of the city was destroyed.

The museum is really worthwhile. The permanent exhibition recreates the uprising in dramatic detail. Reconstructed scenes, historical objects, and some 1,500 films, photos, and sound recordings tell the story—one you’ll never forget.

On the other hand—or, ideally, after you’ve visited the Rising—head back east. Cross the Vistula, into the resurgent neighborhood of Praga, once a tough place, now gentrified and home to patio cafes and cool boutiques. And arrive at the Polish Vodka Museum.

Now, this place is a lot of fun. It is the only museum of its kind in the world (dedicated to Polish vodka). It is located in a handsome brick building that once produced the country’s best-known vodkas. Inside, let a guide take you through the history of the national beverage (vodka actually means “little water” in Polish).

Exhibits run from a medieval alchemist’s lab to an actual distillery. There’s history and context, too, including interpretations on the role this spirit has played in the politics of the country. Afterward, if you like, you can enjoy a tasting of some of the best Polish vodkas. A good way to get the evening started.

The Warsaw Rising Museum commemorates the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, when Polish resistance fighters rebelled against Nazi occupation. piotrbb/Shutterstock

Evening

Close the loop, back across the Vistula, to the square around the Polish National Opera. Start by toasting an amazing day with a celebratory drink at The Roots, one of the finest cocktail bars in the country. It’s been recognized by The World’s 50 Best Bars.

The master mixologists here are always doing innovative things, especially with vodka and fresh, local ingredients. If you ask nicely, they’ll show you their own small vodka museum. It includes vintage coolers, shakers, and jiggers, as well as first-edition bartending manuals.

Then, sit down for dinner at Elixir by Dom Wodki, next door. Opt for just a single course, because there’s still more activities to come this evening. This is a Michelin-recognized restaurant with (again) elevated Polish dishes. The vodka theme carries through, so you can choose a pairing from some 750 vodkas with your beef tartare or chicken and dumplings.

Elixir by Dom Wodki offers vodka-based drink recommendations to be paired with each carefully prepared dish. Elixir by Dom Wodki

And now: the big finish. Walk across the road to the national opera. Whether ballet or opera or strings or whatever—“Madama Butterfly” or “Don Quixote”—you’re in for a treat. Buy a ticket, settle in, and enjoy a traditional and grand end to a very busy, cool day.