It doesn’t matter how extensively you have traveled, or what amazing cities have been along your international path. You’ll agree once you see it: Sydney is a star.
Arrival
The Sydney Kingsford Smith Airport (SYD) is the busiest airport in Oceania, and one of the oldest in the world. Planes have been taking off and landing at this spot next to Botany Bay since 1911. Today, its three runways receive nonstop flights from around the world, including those of national flag carrier Qantas, an acronym for Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Services.A huge pro: SYD is relatively close to the action. A straight-shot drive on the M1 freeway gets you all the way to Circular Quay, about 7 1/2 miles away, in about 20 minutes. The Airport Link train is fast and easy, with departures about every 10 minutes, a trip that also takes roughly 20 minutes. Tickets are about AU$20 (about US$12.50).
Morning
After your ride by road or rail to Circular Quay, stretch your legs in The Rocks. This is one of Sydney’s oldest neighborhoods, established with the founding of the colony back in the late 18th century. For many years, it was a rough-and-tumble port district. Today, the winding lanes and cobblestones are a magnet for locals and visitors alike.
With views over the harbor, it’s an excellent place to get your bearings after a long flight, not to mention an ideal spot to grab a little breakfast. Once you have taken a walk and gotten the blood pumping, fuel up at The Rocks Cafe. They have al fresco tables and serve a full, English-style breakfast as well as delicious ricotta hotcakes. For something lighter, go for bowls of fruit and granola. Come back a bit later if you’re hankering for kangaroo steak.
Then, get the day’s main fright out of the way. There’s no better way to appreciate the sweeping splendor of Australia’s largest city than by scaling one of its greatest icons. To put it simply: The Sydney Harbor BridgeClimb is worth it.
With a typical Aussie spirit of deprecation, Sydneysiders nicknamed this absolute icon “The Coathanger.” Completed in 1932, it remains the world’s tallest steel arch bridge. On the BridgeClimb, they will take you right to the top.
Once you don your one-piece jumpsuit and clip in the safety harness, you stride out onto the upper span of the arch. It’s vertigo-inducing at first. But once you complete the 1,332 steps to the summit, the view is worth every stride: 360 degrees, harbor and skyline, and the white “sails” of the opera house, far below.
The whole experience will take three hours, with two hours spent on the bridge itself. This, of course, will consume most of the morning. So once you descend, head straight to lunch.
Afternoon
It’s a short walk over to Darling Harbor. For decades, this was an industrial hub. Trains arrived at the rail yard, loading and unloading their cargo onto ships lining the commercial wharves.After it fell into disrepair and some disrepute, redevelopment began in the 1980s, partly in anticipation of the 2000 Summer Olympic Games. These days, it’s a wonderful place to find a midday meal. Wander around a little first. You could pop into the aquarium or explore the tall ships that form part of the Australian National Maritime Museum.
Walk across the pedestrian Pyrmont Bridge. Then double back to a place such as Henley’s Bar & Kitchen with a big, sunny patio and a menu of crowd-pleasers. (A burger and beer remains a local favorite.)
Head back on foot to Circular Quay and get out on the water. Pack your swimsuit and towel, if you’re so inclined, and hop on a ferry to Watsons Bay. This is the most economical boat tour you could ever hope to take. The ride will take you past the opera house and the Royal Botanic Garden in less than 30 minutes.
Plus there are coves, inlets, beaches, and marinas lined with sailboats. Total price: Less than US$6, each way.
Once you disembark, consider a drink and a snack at Doyles on the Beach. This small restaurant specializes in seafood. The oysters are a good choice, perhaps paired with a crisp Clare Valley Riesling. Then walk about 15 minutes through a pleasant residential neighborhood to Camp Cove Beach.
It’s slightly surreal here. You’re greeted by cool, clear, sun-dappled waves; a perfect crescent of sand; and a green park with pleasant walking trails right next door. It can be euphoric to find a hidden and remote beach like this, especially since the towers of Sydney’s central business district are just there, right across the way. Relax and enjoy as the afternoon sun crosses the southern sky—you may never want to leave.
Evening
Towel off, hop back on the ferry, and head back toward the skyline. The day isn’t finished yet. After seeing the city’s most recognizable building from above, on the bridge, and on the harbor, it’s now time to explore inside the sails of the opera house.Once, the tip of Bennelong Point was occupied by a humble tram depot. In the 1950s, architects from around the world submitted hundreds of proposals for the new Sydney Opera House, a place that government leaders hoped would put this far-off nation on the map. The plans of a Dane named Jorn Utzon won the international design competition—despite the fact that Utzon was unknown in Australia, not to mention in Denmark, too.
At first, things didn’t go well. Early critics likened it to a circus tent. Delays mounted and costs soared. The engineering of such an ambitious structure bedeviled the builders. Particularly tricky were the white roof shells meant to evoke the look of sails.
After breaking ground in 1959, the Sydney Opera House didn’t formally open its doors until 1973—a full decade behind schedule. Having been forced to resign from the project, Utzon refused to attend the opening. Nonetheless, almost everyone today agrees that the Sydney Opera House is both an architectural and creative wonder.
Because the building is so famous, people sometimes forget that it is an actual performing arts venue. Every year, some 1,800 shows take place here. You can buy a ticket and watch everything from concerts and comedy shows to (of course) operas.
Once you have your ticket in hand, arrive at the opera house early, for dinner. If you have time, grab an al fresco cocktail, with a view, at the Opera Bar. Then head inside for an unforgettable meal at Bennelong.
This restaurant’s atmosphere feels a little like that of a cathedral. The ceiling curls up into a peak—one of the “sails”—and huge windows open upon the now-sparkling lights of central Sydney. Legendary Chef Peter Gilmore has created a menu that serves up “Australia on a plate.” For turf, there’s pasture-raised duck or grass-fed Angus beef. As for surf, enjoy anything from rock lobster to hand line-caught barramundi.
Note that the restaurant advises guests to arrive at least one hour and 45 minutes before your evening show, if you plan on eating two or three courses. In a time crunch, you could always just sit at the bar. Even the snacks, which include local cheeses and caviar, are beautiful and upscale.
Either way, don’t miss the chance to marvel at a performance in one of the world’s most famous venues. No matter what you watch, it’s a story you can tell for the rest of your life. Afterward, if you still have energy left, let those last notes carry you back to The Rocks, where the day started, for a hard-earned nightcap.
