With a shimmering skyline spreading out beneath the soaring, snow-capped Andes, Santiago, Chile, just might be South America’s most underrated city. It is a huge place, with a metropolitan area of almost 7 million—some 40 percent of the country’s population. The beautiful Chilean countryside, including its wineries and rolling hills, is never too far away. But on this continent it’s often seen as a place of commerce, not tourism.
There’s just so much to see and do. Visiting just the city in 24 hours is a challenge, but we’re going to venture a bit beyond. Urban pleasures and pastoral fun—all in one, big day.
Arrival
Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport (SCL) is the country’s busiest entry point, which also serves as a major Latin American hub. Interestingly, SCL is the most far-flung destination for nonstop flights from a number of European airlines, including Air France and Iberia. From North America, year-round direct flights operate from Miami and Atlanta, with additional seasonal routes from Toronto and Houston.Morning
Start the day with a bird’s-eye view of everything. The city’s historic funicular has been climbing tracks up the steep side of San Cristóbal Hill since it opened back in 1925. If you’re lucky (and early), the sun will be out, and the skies will still be free of smog.Take in the view of the surrounding Andes and the lush, green valley at your feet. In the middle of the vista is the unmistakable, mirrored profile of the Gran Torre de Santiago. At almost 1,000 feet tall, it stands as South America’s tallest building. The viewing deck at the top, Sky Costanera, provides another thrilling perspective on this sprawling metropolis.
Once you’ve taken your photos and enjoyed the view, descend back to the base of the funicular. From there, it’s a pleasant 20-minute walk of less than a mile to the Chilean National Museum of Fine Arts. The building itself is worth the trip.
Neoclassical with Art Nouveau touches, this grand place was designed by Chilean-born French architect Emile Jéquier. It opened in 1910, as part of the country’s centennial celebrations. The structure would stand out even in Paris, which was intentional—both the façade and layout echo the famous Petit Palais, the French capital’s home of fine arts.
Inside, an expansive cupola—with 2,400 individual pieces of glass—brightens the entire central hall with natural illumination. Originally, the museum had just 140 paintings. Today, the collection includes thousands of works, with just a fraction on display at any given time. Look out for lovely religious pieces from the Spanish colonial period.
Afternoon
It’s almost time for lunch. But first, stretch your legs in the Parque Forestal, which surrounds the museum. It’s a lovely bit of green in the heart of downtown, situated along the Mapocho River, whose waters, descending from high in the mountains, slice dramatically through the cityscape.Fortunately, the paths in the park will lead you straight to the Mercado Central. It’s a beautiful building, too. The spreading awnings lining the north façade welcome you into a space opened back in 1872. Take note of the complex and graceful pyramidal roof design, with a cast-iron vaulted ceiling.
But it’s the delicious items that are spread out beneath that draw many thousands of visitors every year. The market is one of the best places in the country for fresh fish, brought in locally—the closest port cities are just 90 minutes away. The “best” label extends to the small cafes within that specialize in seafood.
Select the one that looks best to you, and order up a Chilean favorite like machas a la parmesana, created by an Italian immigrant in the 1950s in the nearby seaside town of Viña del Mar. Think: razor clams with white wine and Parmesan cheese. If that sounds a little rich for lunch, a simple choritos con arroz—mussels and rice—is always nice.
Browse the rows of food stalls at the market. Then, as the heat of the afternoon builds, it’s time to get out of town. Head toward the Andes and the wineries of the Maipo Valley—sometimes called the Bordeaux of South America. Narrowing to a canyon, you could spend an entire day (or more) exploring the lovely little villages in the valley, which line the rushing river of the same name.
Today, there’s only time to reach Viña Aquitania, a small, friendly, family-owned winery, which is near the city center, but feels like a world away. Located just in the suburbs, you can take Santiago’s public transit to get here. But a taxi or Uber makes the trip much more quickly—in around 40 minutes, depending on traffic.
Arrive and marvel at the rows and rows of vines in the shadow of towering Andean peaks. Two French winemakers from Bordeaux founded Viña Aquitania—their search for the perfect Chilean terroir for their wines began in the 1980s, and they bought these 18 hectares in 1990. The winery is now run by the second generation of the family.
Tours are 90 minutes long, and are very affordable, starting at about $30 per person. They include a visit to a small tower that gives 360-degree views of the surrounding beauty, plus a walk amongst the vines. And then, you see the best part. Descend to the cellar and taste their Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, and, if you choose the upgraded $50 tour, a little Pinot noir.
Evening
It’s a shame there isn’t time, but if you can find a way to squeeze it in, the wonders of Parque Quebrada de Macul are just a 10-minute drive to the south. Again—just on the edge of the city—this nature park iswhere visitors can float in cold, clear streams, and hike beneath crashing waterfalls.End the day in Barrio Italia, about 30 minutes to the northwest—and almost all the way back to where we started the day. Settled by 19th-century Italian immigrants, today its handsome, historic, low-rise buildings house some of the city’s coolest shops and top restaurants.
Santiago isn’t the world’s most walkable city. But their version of Little Italy is a place where visitors should reserve plenty of time to wander. Bohemian and stylish, every block and every turn is an adventure. A left? Maybe that takes you into a whole arcade of kitschy boutiques. A right? You stumble into a hidden courtyard cafe.
This is, of course, the perfect place for dinner. Don’t have a big, multi-course meal—because you have a show coming up. Try something simple and delicious like Trattoria Da Noi, which has a big outdoor patio and steaming plates of unpretentious, homemade pasta and other amazing Italian meals.
Finish your night with a performance at the Municipal Theatre of Santiago. This is the country’s premier place for opera and stage productions. Builders constructed the grand, neoclassical building in the middle of the 19th century, with the architect from the Opéra National de Paris consulting—again, the French influences are clearly evident.
While the building is impressive, what’s on stage will really thrill—whatever’s playing. Buy a ticket. (They’re not expensive—depending on the show, getting in the door can cost as little as $15). Concerts, ballet, opera, whatever, it’s the best the country has to offer. It’s a perfect, symphonic way to play out a big day—in the country, mountains, and city.
