Arrival
While Paris has two major international airports, the majority of flights from North America land at Charles de Gaulle International (CDG). It sits just over 20 miles from the city center, so you have many options for transportation. The fastest, easiest way into the urban core is aboard a regional commuter train (RER). These frequently depart from the station beneath the airport to Gare du Nord, getting you there (in most cases) in under 40 minutes.
Morning
From there, take the direct Metro line to the heart of it all, where Paris began, in Ile-de-la-Cité. This small island in the Seine River has been the seat of political and religious power since the Romans built a fortress for their governor here in the 4th century. First stop: have a look at the famous Notre-Dame Cathedral. Since the disastrous fire in 2019, crews have been working hard to restore the famous 12th-century church. Reconstruction is nearing its completion, and the cathedral could reopen to the public as early as the end of this year.A good riverside walk is the perfect antidote to the fatigue from a (probably) sleepless flight, and the attendant jet lag. Cross the city’s oldest surviving bridge, Pont Neuf, onto the Right Bank. Then continue along the Seine, right at water level, strolling for as long as you please. You’ll pass some famous landmarks along the way. These include the Louvre Museum, a former palace and perhaps the most famous art museum in the world. It’s home to priceless treasures such as the Winged Victory of Samothrace, the Venus de Milo and, of course, Da Vinci’s masterpiece, the Mona Lisa.
The banks of the Seine are lined with cafes, restaurants, and shops, making it a great place to stroll. (Marco_Piunti/iStock/Getty Images, Daniele D'Andreti/Unsplash)
When you inevitably tire of walking, take a little cruise. Like most very old European cities, Paris was built in an age when the continent’s major highways were made of liquid rather than concrete or asphalt. You approached by water, which means that even today, these city centers are best experienced by boat.
Hop on one of the many open-topped bateaux that ply these waterways. That little bit of breakfast you had on the plane is probably wearing off, so grab a croissant and a café au lait, and then opt for a voyage that includes the fascinating, less-visited Canal St-Martin. Board near the Jardin des Tuileries, sail back downriver, past the Palais de Justice and Hôtel-Dieu—and the flying buttresses of Notre-Dame, much more dramatic when seen from the Seine.
The boat will then turn to head up the canal. Part of the journey is through a tunnel underground, the waterway covered to allow more space on the surface for parks and gardens and boulevards. Completed in 1825, the canal will take you through nine locks, under graceful cast-iron footbridges, and past al fresco bars and restaurants. The ride feels like a sneak peak into a whole other side of Paris.
The Bateaux Mouches vessels have come a long way since the company's first boat in 1949, which was an old steamboat that had been used during the universal exhibition of 1900. (Kiev.Victor/Shutterstock, neirfy/iStock/Getty Images)
Afternoon
Head across the river and spend the afternoon wandering around the Left Bank, long a gathering place for creative types, from musicians to artists and intellectuals. Today, its six arrondissements feel a little quieter, more walkable, and more accessible.
You can’t visit Paris without doing a little shopping. Yes, you’ll find all the famous French brands here, from Louis Vuitton to Chanel, at fancy shopping centers like the Galeries Lafayette. If you’re not looking to max out your credit card, it might be better to seek out your favorite fresh foods here in what is the ultimate culinary cornucopia.
Taking place in one of the oldest streets in the city, the market on Rue Mouffetard offers so much. Try to arrive before 1 p.m., when many of the sellers fold up their stalls for the day. Even Ernest Hemingway liked this place, describing it in “A Moveable Feast” as a “wonderful, narrow crowded market street.”
You’ll love it, too. What’s the French delicacy you crave the most? Camembert or a stinky Roquefort? Flaky pastry like pain au chocolat, or an éclair? A savory spread of charcuterie? You’ll find all of this, and so much more—fresh seafood, a colorful bounty of produce—all the way down the cobblestone stretch.
You’ve had a very busy day already. Time for a simple, hearty, delicious lunch at a casual French brasserie.
Stop by Brasserie des Prés for lunch. Many brasseries have a fixed menu, and some offer a plat du jour (dish of the day) at lunchtime for a reasonable price. (Bastien Lattanzio, joannpai, Aurore Nguyen/Brasserie des Prés)
Work off that lunch nearby, with a stroll in the Jardin du Luxembourg. This 50-acre oasis sits in the middle of the city. The namesake, 17th-century Palais du Luxembourg, built for Marie de Medici, is now occupied by the French senate. The gardens are manicured and there are plenty of places to sit and enjoy the fresh air. Take a rest next to the Medici Fountain or the Grand Bassin, where kids and hobbyists sail little model boats. (It’s actually really fun to watch them skim along the top of the pond.)
Parisians used to call the Luxembourg Gardens, Le Luco, an abbreviation of Lucotitius, the ancient name for the suburb where they are located. (David Henry/iStock/Getty Images, Gabriel Mello/Getty Images)
One of the biggest benefits of this tour? The driver. In addition to the anecdotes they share along the tour route, it’s a rare and special thing to be able to sit with a real Parisian. Take advantage of this unique opportunity to just chat with them about their life in one of the world’s greatest cities.
The first sidecar in Paris was designed for an 1893 newspaper competition. Today, you can book sidecar sightseeing tours that bring you across the city. (Courtesy of Retro Tour)
Evening
As afternoon fades and the evening shadows grow, head up to Montmartre. Climbing a 400-foot hillside to the north of the city, this neighborhood feels like a place set apart. It’s a village with narrow lanes perfect for getting lost as you explore. You might even stumble across a square where artists paint their surroundings during Golden Hour.The steps of the Basilica of the Sacré-Coeur are probably the best place in Paris to watch the sun set. So many famous places, right there at your feet. Turn your head to the right: the sparkling lights of the Eiffel Tower. To the left: the iconic bell towers at Notre-Dame. The Seine runs through it all.
The Sacré-Coeur offers stunning vistas of Paris, especially on evenings when the Eiffel Tower is illuminated. (Ayhan Altun/Getty Images, Atlantide Phototravel/Getty Images)
People gather and enjoy. Couples with a little cheese and a bottle of wine. Small clusters of friends, perhaps swaying a little to the sound of a guitar. It’s a poetic and peaceful way to end the day.
That is, until you head for dinner nearby at the weird and wonderful Refuge des Fondues. Tiny and perpetually raucous, there’s only two long tables at this unique restaurant, running front-to-back. If you’re seated against the wall, servers will help you step on the table to get to that side.
You’ll inevitably strike up a conversation with the people next to you. Sometimes, depending on how much wine people have enjoyed, fun French songs will be sung by all. Then, tuck into the main attraction—fondues, beef, or cheese, served up family-style. Spend the rest of the evening strolling back down the hill, perhaps, if you’re lucky, getting lost once or twice along the way.
