It is, by several definitions, the crossroads of the world—the place where the Americas, North and South, meet. It’s also home to a famous canal that brings together the Atlantic and Pacific, perhaps the most vital link on earth for global shipping and supply chains.
When you approach Panama City from the water, a vertical metropolis appears. A shimmering line of white-and-glass skyscrapers rising from the edge of the ocean, like something from a dream. But the life of this city is down below, away from the towers, in neighborhoods charming and historic and bursting with energy. You’ll have a very busy 24 hours exploring Panamá’s bustling capital.
Arrival
Many visitors will arrive in town by water, at Port Fuerte Amador, the main cruise ship port. But Panama City is also a major flight hub. Home to Copa Airlines, the national flag carrier, Tocumen International Airport (PTY) connects this small Central American country to the world. Copa flies direct to many cities in North America, and a handful of carriers also land from Europe.Morning
Start your visit by going back to the beginning. The foundation of this place was rather dramatic, and you can walk through the history at Panamá Viejo. In addition to learning a few things, a visit is a nice opportunity to breathe a little fresh air and stretch your legs after a long trip on a plane.
Now recognized as part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was the first permanent European settlement on the Pacific Coast of the Americas. Things started to take shape in 1519. Developing into a major port for exporting gold and silver to Spain, what we now call Old Panamá became a major target for pirate raids.
By 1671, the city had grown to a population of 10,000. The infamous British privateer Henry Morgan marched his men for days from the Caribbean through dense jungle. They laid waste to the city, and it burned to the ground. (Who, exactly, started the fire is still in dispute.)
Today, the remains form an urban oasis, within sight of the modern skyline of a city that now counts some 2 million in its metropolitan area. Stroll among the well-preserved ruins, with birds chirping overhead. Finish your visit by climbing to the top of the old bell tower of the original cathedral to enjoy sweeping views.
The city was rebuilt in 1673, about five miles down the road, forming today’s Casco Viejo. Hop in an Uber and make the Old Quarter your next stop. It’s a chance to experience all its charm before the day gets too hot, and the tiny lanes become crowded with tourists.
Casco Viejo is set on a peninsula, a tight grid of brick-paved streets penned in by the Pacific on three sides. It is absolutely the perfect place to wander. People still live in these historic buildings, and street life remains vibrant. While you stroll, make sure to include a little time in Plaza de Francia and Plaza Mayor (also called Independence Square), the city’s main square. Pop into the Metropolitan Cathedral, and visit The Canal Museum, which will give you the necessary historical background for what you’ll be seeing a little later.
Afternoon
This is a great time, and place, for some lunch. Casco Viejo is home to dozens of cafes and bars and restaurants. One of the finest: Fonda Lo Que Hay. Recognized by Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023, they take casual Panamanian classics and add an upscale twist. (In Panamá, a “fonda” is a simple, roadside restaurant.)Pull up a stool at the bar and watch the cooks work in the open kitchen, or grab a table out in the shady courtyard. Try the ceviche or grilled lobster with rice and beans. Here’s a personal recommendation: the fried chicken is homey and delicious, paired with creamy mashed potatoes.
You’ll need the fuel from this big lunch. After all, there’s still plenty to see—including the most famous site in the country.
You really can’t understate the international significance of the Panama Canal. The completion of this 51-mile waterway, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, was a Herculean task. It saves ships an often-perilous 5,000-mile trip around Cape Horn, at the southern tip of South America.
A French attempt to dig across the isthmus went bankrupt in 1889, after taking the lives of some 22,000 people, many of whom perished from mosquito-borne illnesses. President Theodore Roosevelt got things going again in 1903. Builders were armed with a better understanding of malaria and yellow fever, and they were aided immeasurably by railway engineering know-how recently gained through building tracks across the West. They completed the project under budget and ahead of schedule.
Early conceptions of the Panama Canal envisioned a flat, straight-ahead passage, similar to the Suez Canal. But American engineers realized that the highlands, which run down the spine of the isthmus, necessitated the construction of locks. These are giant chambers that lift and lower huge ships a total of 85 feet by filling and emptying water.
You can see them in action at the Miraflores Locks, a little more than a half-hour’s drive from Casco Viejo (depending on traffic). At the visitor’s center you’ll find a museum and an IMAX theater with a 3-D film recounting the history of the canal. But the real reason to come: the outdoor viewing decks.
From there, you can see the operation of this modern marvel in action. Ships laden with cargo—everything from car carriers to oil tankers to container vessels, stacked high with goods—make their way between oceans. Perhaps the funnest part is watching them connect lines with the little locomotives that pace the ships, traveling along tracks on each side. Ringing their bells and chugging along, these “mules” keep the vessels straight as they proceed through the narrow passage.
Evening
A contrast to the many skyscrapers downtown, San Francisco—about half an hour by road from the locks—is a lovely enclave. The bungalows were once filled with families. But when residents decamped, often for condos and apartments on those nearby upper floors, a number of local businesses moved in.Ideally, you should get there before sundown to browse. The pleasant, tree-lined streets are filled with boutiques selling everything from arts and crafts to chocolate and cheese. If you still have enough energy, take a little walk along the trails in Parque Omar.
Then, choose a place for dinner. San Francisco offers plenty of very nice options. A good one is Casa Escondido. Literally translated, the name means “hidden house.”
It still feels like someone’s home, with the dining room set in the former living room. With warm, hearty, homey food to match, including a codillo de cerdo (pork knuckle slow-cooked for five hours). It’s the perfect dish to finish a very busy day. Eat, drink, linger. Enjoy a nice long meal—a reward for reaching the end of your jam-packed schedule at the crossroads of the earth.
