24 Hours in Maui

From Haleakala’s otherworldly landscape to Upcountry farms, from surfing lessons to luaus, the island’s attractions are manifold.

A sunset cruise near Kaanapali Beach in Maui. Vicki Jauron, Babylon and Beyond Photography/Getty Images

In so many ways, Maui has long embodied the ultimate paradise for American travelers—and on many fronts, it is exactly that. On one hand, you get sandy beaches, the big, blue Pacific, and swaying palms caressed by the trade winds. On the other, you get the “aloha” spirit and a culture that goes back many generations—one that’s integrally tied to the land, water, and sky.

Wildfires devastated the beautiful community of Lahaina almost exactly a year ago. The rebuilding and healing there will take time. But the rest of the island is open for business, and the people of Maui are happy to invite visitors back.

And while it would be ideal to have more than 24 hours here, you can experience a whole lot of paradise in just a day. Many of the main sites on Maui aren’t so far apart if you have a car. And trust me, it will be amazing to see the many sides of this Valley Isle in just a single day. So here it is: Our guide to Maui, in 24 hours.

Arrival

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Located in the broad flats of Maui’s big, wide valley, Kahului Airport (OGG) is a busy place. Most U.S. domestic carriers bring vacationers here from a wide variety of U.S. cities, with a handful of flights arriving from Canada as well.

While there’s a bus service connecting the airport to a few major places, you’ll really need your own vehicle to truly explore. Collect your suitcase in the baggage hall, hop on the little train shuttle to the rental car center, and soon, you’ll be on your way.

Morning

It’s just a short drive (around 15 minutes) to the busy little town of Paia. This is a place where you can get your feet wet—and sandy—right away. Baldwin Beach Park is loved by locals. You’ll find trails to stretch your legs and a graceful, curving beach to walk where sea turtles are often spotted.

Feel free to slip off your shoes and socks and put those travel-weary toes in the calm, warm, aquamarine waves lapping the shore. Then, dry off and walk back into town for a morning snack. Many of the poke places open early, a perfect first island taste.

Left: Baby Beach, at the western end of Baldwin Beach Park. The park is full of hiking trails with scenic views. Right: A Greenback turtle relaxes on Baldwin Beach. bteimages/Shutterstock; Robert Harding Video/Shutterstock

Drive for almost an hour southeast, then, go up ... and up ... and up. Keep driving up the broad flanks of the mountain, navigating a (well-maintained) road with many switchbacks to reach Haleakala National Park. While you’ll almost certainly be too late to capture that iconic sunrise photo, it’s worth visiting the place where Maui began.

The namesake, dormant volcano hasn’t erupted in more than 400 years, but its dramatic power is still evident everywhere here. A Martian landscape above 10,023 feet, you can hike one of two trails into the big crater, which is dotted with cinder cones, or just enjoy the truly unique and ruggedly stunning view.

Hiking in Haleakala is an unforgettable experience. Cheap Traveler/Shutterstock

Afternoon

Take your time coming down the mountain. The communities on Haleakala’s flanks are collectively known as “Upcountry.” With cooler temperatures and sweeping views, it’s a perfect place to begin your afternoon.

Grab the island’s freshest produce at Kula Country Farms and get ready for an essential Upcountry experience: a cheese-tasting at the nearby Surfing Goat Dairy. Sign up for a tour to feed these super cute creatures, learning about the farming and milking process along the way. If you’re lucky, you’ll come during “kidding” season and be able to hold a baby goat. There’s literally nothing on earth more adorable. They’re light and soft, trusting, and small enough to fit just perfectly on your arm.

The adorable goats at Surfing Goat Dairy. Courtesy of Tim Johnson

Then, swing through Makawao. For many years, Hawaiian cowboys—known as paniolo—have wrangled cattle in the nearby Upcountry fields, and the town retains a true Wild West feel. Browse the galleries and make sure to join the line for the town’s signature snack: a cream puff from the Komoda Store and Bakery.

As you continue to descend toward the valley, take the long way back through Paia, because Mama’s Fish House is definitely worth the detour. One of the first restaurants on the island to serve fresh seafood, local fishermen still pull up to the dock behind the kitchen to offload their catch. It’s fileted and cooked and on the plate in a flash, everything from ahi seared with peppercorn, to mahi-mahi sautéed with garlic, tomatoes, and capers from a local farm. Little notes on the menu often detail the place where the fisherman caught your lunch, and even his or her name.

(L–R) Food and drinks at Mama's Fish House: Haleakala Grilled Beef served in a fresh grilled papaya; a Mai Tai Roa Ae, which means “the very best” in Hawaiian; and New Caledonian Prawns cooked with Tahitian vanilla. Courtesy of Mama's Fish House

Now, drive across the valley to West Maui. It shouldn’t take longer than 45 minutes, and the route is quite lovely. Skirting the West Maui Mountains, you’ll curl along a seaside road clinging to the side of an incline. Emerging from tunnels, the two-lane highway descends to dance along the coast, passing endless beaches and palm trees and surf spots.

You won’t see much of Lahaina. A bypass takes visitors completely around the townsite. Access is only granted to residents and workers, and signs encourage you to respect the site and stay out—advice that should indeed be heeded.

Soon, you’ll be in Kaanapali, which remains that dreamy tropical destination that’s enchanted sun seekers ever since the Royal Lahaina first opened here in 1962. It was soon followed by the Sheraton at Black Rock in 1963. (Kaanapali now offers six hotels and five condo complexes, plus two championship golf courses over a lush 1,200 acres.)

Walking the seaside path here, under a big Pacific sun, is always so much fun. Each hotel and condo has its own feel, from theming and landscaping to pools. And everyone along the way—families, couples, and groups—is having a blast, tossing footballs or grilling fish and steaks.

If you’re still feeling energetic, sign up for a surf lesson. And if you’re not, just browse the sunny, upscale shops at Whalers Village. A tip: On the upper level, toward the back, the Hawaii Wildlife Discovery Center is a small, free museum that gives an overview of the natural wonders you’ll find just offshore. You can chat with marine biologists on site.

Each hotel or condo along Kaanapali Beach offers a different atmosphere and variety of activities. Michele Falzone/Getty Images

Evening

After snapping a few photos of the sun setting over the neighboring island of Molokai, settle in for a pre-dinner cocktail at Hula Grill. Sit on the expansive patio, feel those trade winds, and watch the flames from tiki torches dance. As a live musician plays island songs, feel the stress of a busy day fade into the evening.

You’re not quite done yet. Before heading to bed, find a fun luau like the one hosted at the Hyatt Regency Maui. “Drums of the Pacific” is the longest-running show on the islands, having educated and entertained visitors for more than 40 years. Feast on kalua pork (a slow-cooked, pit-roasted pork dish), teriyaki chicken, and the fresh catch of the day. On stage, spectacular dances and authentic songs tell the story of Maui, Hawaii, broader Polynesia, and beyond.

Kalua pork is a Hawaiian classic, served here with stewed cabbage and salad. AS Foodstudio/Shutterstock

Maridav/iStock/Getty Images

One last thing: Make a trip to the roof for some stargazing. There, on a guided tour, nine stories up, the Hyatt Regency’s director of astronomy—who is also a NASA solar system ambassador—points powerful telescopes at the sky. He invites guests to have a look, interpreting all the cosmic phenomena they’re seeing. It’s proof that the sky isn’t the limit, and serves as the perfect end to a big Maui day, as you head to bed with stars in your eyes.

How to Help

Donating to help victims of the wildfires in Lahaina is important, though many visitors will want to get their hands dirty and contribute to feel like they’re actually making a tangible difference. On an island that has given them so much—happy memories, a feeling of wellness—they want to do something (anything!) to give back, even if it’s just for a morning or a day. Fortunately, Maui is the kind of place that invites you to get involved.

On a recent visit, I went to a farm and chopped and peeled vegetables. Now, I’m not particularly adept at either skill (or anything in the kitchen), but it was satisfying to feel the soil and the produce of this beautiful island in my hands. The food was for Hua Momona Farms and their foundation, which prepares and delivers both fresh boxes and hot meals to thousands in Maui.

Check out volunteer opportunities at hhhmaui.ivolunteer.com/huamomonafarms#