Perhaps no city has had such a complicated—and fascinating—20th-century history as Berlin: bombed heavily in World War II, divided for decades into zones by the victorious Allies, and separated internally by the world’s most (in)famous wall.
But visit today, and you’ll find a phoenix. The German capital has risen from the ashes and adversity to become a place brimming with optimism that moves with unmatched dynamism. Come here to revisit the past—while gaining visions of the future. Here’s the best way to do it in just one day.
Arrival
Berlin’s Brandenburg Airport Willy Brandt (BER) opened southeast of the city just in 2020 and still feels fairly fresh and new. Probably the best way into the heart of everything—balancing cost and convenience—is to take a direct S-Bahn light rail train. Departures from the airport station are frequent (several per hour) and a 30-minute trip taking you close to the Brandenburg Gate will set you back less than $5. Taxis and ride-share services like Uber are also available.Morning
Start at Checkpoint Charlie, where worlds once came together. East Berlin and West Berlin met here during the Cold War; this was the most visible gate through the Iron Curtain. A reconstructed guardhouse, similar to the original one built in 1961, now stands on that spot. The nearby BlackBox Cold War Exhibition is excellent and informative—and entrance to the outdoor exhibits is free of charge. Plan to spend at least an hour there (it’s worth paying the small entrance fee to go inside as well). Exhibits explain how the checkpoint and the wall shaped the city’s history, and honors the many who lost their lives trying to escape to freedom.
If you have time, and you’re ready for some heavy stuff, walk nearby to the Topography of Terror. From the 1930s until 1945, this imposing site housed the Gestapo as well as SS leadership. Today, it retells that dark history, from the rise of National-Socialism to the end of the Reich at the finish of World War II.
It’s now time to head across town. If you’re up for a big walk—and after a long night of sitting on a flight, that just might be the case—trace the remaining sections of the wall, winding along sidewalks and streets, all the way to the East Side Gallery. The walk will take close to an hour. But if you’re tired, the local 300 bus will take you there in about 30 minutes. You’ll know when you’ve arrived at the world’s longest open-air art gallery—you can’t miss it.
The gallery started to take shape soon after the German border opened in November 1989. Initially a grassroots effort, eventually 118 artists from 21 countries contributed paintings. The bright and colorful works celebrate democracy, freedom, and the end of the Cold War. A highlight is a mural of a Trabant—that notoriously terrible East German automobile—“breaking” through the wall. Protected since 1991 as a national memorial, this is the longest continuous section of the wall that still remains, running about four-fifths of a mile.
Afternoon
It’s been a busy day already. But the best strategy, when you have only 24 hours to visit a new city, is to just keep going. But you’ll need to refuel a bit before doing so.Cheap and filling and easy to eat while you’re in motion, currywurst is a Berlin original. Invented by a local woman after World War II, she poured ketchup and curry powder (which she got from a British soldier) over a pork sausage, and found a bit of magic. She opened a restaurant, and the dish was a hit with the hardworking workers rebuilding the city.
Today, you’ll find places to buy it everywhere, including several spots only a few steps from the gallery. Usually, the currywurst is served together with French fries, a combination that often costs less than five bucks. (If you’re not into curry, grabbing a bratwurst on a bun with spicy mustard is another delicious, ubiquitous option.)
After a morning heavy with history, you’re probably ready for some fresh air. Fortunately, Berlin is one of the world’s greenest cities, with more forests, parks, and gardens than any other European conurbation. Part of this grew (literally) out of the disastrous and destitute years between the Wars. Especially in the 1920s, Berliners had to cultivate their own food to survive—and pushed back on any efforts to build over their vegetable gardens. Many of those green spaces survive today, now used for flowers and plants.
Of all the parks, Tiergarten is, of course, the most famous. It was established in the 16th century as a hunting ground for Prussian kings. Now, spanning more than 500 acres, it serves as a playground for the whole city, and you can walk or jog or bike along its sylvan pathways. In May and June, the rhododendrons bloom—a beautiful, unforgettable sight. In winter, the ponds sometimes freeze, perfect for ice skaters. And when you tire of all the activity, there’s a beer garden serving frosty mugs of the good stuff, located next to a scenic little lake.
And while it’s a bit of a journey—best to hop into an Uber for this one—Cecilienhof Palace is really worth a visit. About 35 minutes away, near Potsdam, this complex isn’t particularly old, or palatial, by European standards. Finished in English Tudor style at the end of 1917, it was the last palace built by the ruling Prussian kings.
With 176 rooms arranged around several courtyards, it is not a small place. Located right next to the Jungfernsee—a pleasant lake—the grounds are a lovely place for a stroll. But history buffs will know Cecilienhof better as the site of the Potsdam Conference, on July 17, 1945.
Berlin in 1945 was so destroyed that the Soviet army had to rebuild roads and a pontoon bridge just to get everyone to the palace. Potsdam was the longest and arguably most significant of the summit meetings among the Allied leaders. It was here that President Harry Truman, Prime Minister Winston Churchill, and Soviet Premier Joseph Stalin, and their foreign ministers, carved up the postwar world. The Soviet Union created satellite states, which laid the foundation for the Eastern bloc. The conference led to the temporary partitioning of Vietnam on the 16th parallel. The Cold War essentially began in these rooms.
A good guide will relate some of the heartwarming anecdotes such as the time a 19-year-old American rifleman was recruited to entertain the leaders with his violin. Sometimes, Truman played the piano.
On the way back to Berlin, ask your driver to stop at the Glienicke Bridge, better known as the Bridge of Spies. Depicted in the 2015 Tom Hanks film of the same name, this was the site of several prisoner exchanges. Back in Berlin, snap a photo of the Brandenburg Gate before heading up to the rooftop of the Reichstag Building.
The seat of Germany’s national parliament is the only one with a public restaurant, called Kafer. A minimum 48-hour reservation is required to be added to the building’s security list. Dine on an upscale four-course meal right next to the famous glass dome. As the lights come up on the spires and towers of the city, enjoy a modern German menu, with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Think: saddle of suckling pig or a veal ragout—al fresco, on the roof.
It’s been a big day. You’ve earned a rest—and a ride—on Berlin’s main river, the Spree. On a 2 1/2-hour evening tour, sit on top of a narrow, long, low boat, passing through canals and under bridges. Everything will sparkle along the way: the Old National Gallery, the Berlin Cathedral, Charlottenburg Palace, even the main train station. The latter is, perhaps, a reminder that you’ll be leaving tomorrow—so enjoy the lights as much as possible tonight.
Suggested Day Trip: Dresden
Less than two hours south of Berlin by train, Dresden—nicknamed the “jewel box”—is an absolute treasure. But perhaps because it was part of East Germany, the city remains largely overlooked by Western travelers. Set on the big bends of the Elbe River, Dresden was for centuries home to the Saxon kings. While the days of the German aristocracy ended with World War I, you can still feel the wealth and power here.Visit the royal palace to walk through the chambers of Augustus the Strong, and see so many other interesting things: metal armor created to protect horses in battle and Turkish tents he purchased to create a small city on a special occasion. Cross over to the Zwinger, which was completed in 1719. A rambling and handsome complex, it offers equally compelling galleries, including one dedicated to strange and wonderful 18th-century scientific and astronomical instruments.
Before hopping on the train back to Berlin, make sure to have a drink or a meal in Das Palais, a fine dining restaurant in the newly renovated Kempinski Taschenbergpalais. Now a hotel, Augustus originally built this palace for his favorite mistress, Anna Constantia von Brockdorff. If the weather’s fair, ask to sit outside, under the shade of their umbrellas, and watch life go by in the old center of the city as you sip a crisp, cool glass of good German Riesling.
