Love it or hate it, Athens is one of Europe’s most fascinating and dynamic cities. It’s a place that hustles, bustles, and can feel a little gritty in all the best ways. Your options: embrace the chaos, or escape it. Fortunately, you can do both, even in a single day.
While many visitors skip the Greek capital on their way to paradisiacal Aegean and Mediterranean destinations like Santorini and Mykonos and Crete, you really should spend at least 24 hours here. If you can’t stay longer, here’s an excellent way to spend a big, busy day in Athens.
Arrival
Though it’s the busiest airport in Greece, Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos (ATH) isn’t a particularly big place. Opened in 2001 to handle traffic for the 2004 Summer Olympics, most flights are served by a single main terminal. As a hub for national flag-carrier Aegean Airlines, ATH is well-connected to European capitals and a few airports a little further afield. In addition, many North American airlines also fly here from major North American cities, including Washington, Atlanta, Toronto, Boston, and Philadelphia. But beware—they only fly seasonally in the warm months.The airport is located about 20 miles east of the city center, so it’s not hard to get into town. A direct metro line links ATH with central Syntagma Square. The ride takes about 40 minutes, and costs nine euros (16 euros return). Road transfers are an option, too, with abundant flat-rate taxis as well as ride-sharing services.
Morning
Get over to the Acropolis as soon as you can. At this absolute icon of Athens and Ancient Greece, the crowds and the heat build throughout the day. The complex opens at 8 a.m., and the wise and happy arrive in time to visit first thing in the morning.
A view of the Acropolis from Areopagus Hill. Natallia Pershaj/iStock/Getty Images
On the north side of the Acropolis, the Erechtheion's six caryatids act as supporting pillars. OlyaSolodenko/iStock/Getty Images
In Greek, Acropolis means “highest point in the city,” and it’s true. Thrust toward the sky on a big bed of rock, these beautiful ruins can be seen from anywhere in central Athens. It was Pericles who got things going in the 5th century B.C. He coordinated the construction of the Parthenon, the Temple of Athena Nike, and the other important structures here.
Stay awhile. The views from the Parthenon stretch 360 degrees, out over the perpetually jammed streets and thousands of white buildings, all the way to mountains and the sea. Wander beyond, down the slopes, to other ancient sites like the Theatre of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.
Afterward, on your way back down, visit an absolute must: the Acropolis Museum. Glassy, open, and airy, it was opened in 2009 to house every artifact found at the Acropolis, and it displays more than 4,000 of them, from the Bronze Age to Byzantium. Perhaps the biggest highlight is the Parthenon Gallery on the third floor, and the relief sculptures of the Parthenon frieze.
The Acropolis Museum houses artifacts uncovered from the important archeological site. Atlantide Phototravel/Getty images
Afternoon
Your Acropolis exploration will definitely take all morning. Indeed—between the ruins on the hill and the museum—it’s a place where you could easily spend days. But you’ve got to keep moving—there’s plenty more to see.Head on foot to Plaka, the oldest part of this ancient city. It’s a short walk—less than 10 minutes. Sometimes called “the Neighborhood of the Gods,” the labyrinthine lanes here are absolutely packed with Byzantine and neoclassical buildings. These buildings are interrupted at regular intervals by archaeological surprises. The Roman Forum is here, a ruined church is over there.
There’s perhaps no better city in the world for simple, easy, inexpensive food. When in doubt, I always grab a gyro. Pronounced “yee-row,” these simple wraps are made with succulent pork or lamb or chicken, roasted on a vertical rotisserie. Stuffed into a pita with greens, tomatoes, and sometimes French fries, the combination is slathered with tzatziki, a creamy, garlicky, beautiful sauce. If you’re in a rush, you can grab one on almost every corner of the city, for just 2 or 3 euros.
A ubiquitous snack is gyro or souvlaki wrapped in pita. Nina Firsova/Shutterstock
By now you’ll probably be weary from a morning of exploring. So take your pick from one of the many sidewalk cafes that line the stone walkways in Plaka. Restaurant Scholarhio is a good choice, with a shaded terrace and well-prepared Greek classics on the menu. Start with saganaki cheese or a Greek salad with a huge hunk of feta on top. Then dig into calamari, moussaka, or a big plate of steaming souvlaki.
It’s almost time to flee the city core. But first, pop by Brettos, the oldest distillery in Athens. Enter the 200-year-old building, pull up at stool at the bar, and marvel at the rising shelves of colorful, backlit bottles. Then choose a digestif, brandy or homemade ouzo. They also offer olive oil and wine tastings.
There’s plenty to browse and buy as you wander around Plaka. There’s everything from cheesy souvenirs to lovely handmade items and antiques at the flea market near busy Monastiraki Square. High-end clothing, cosmetics, and jewelry stores decorate Ermou, the main pedestrian shopping street. Toward Syntagma Square, the Agora at Ergon House brings together super-fresh, local producers—bakers and butchers, plus produce and fish on ice.
Plaka is a popular neighborhood, steps away from the Acropolis. Konstantinos Dimitros/iStock Editorial/Getty Images
Copies of antique Greek vases on display in a shop window. Shops and markets abound with such souvenirs. Izzet Keribar/Getty Images
Now it’s time to leave the center of town, and head to the coast. Few North American visitors realize that in addition to the ruins and history, the Greek capital is also a beach destination. The Athenian Riviera beckons when the crush and heat of the city starts to overwhelm.
Hop on a bus, or even better, into an Uber, and head about 30–45 minutes south, to the sands of Vouliagmeni. Change into your swimsuit. Pay the 10 euro admission fee, which includes a sunbed shaded by a thatched umbrella. Blink your eyes. Tell yourself you’re in Athens, not in the Cyclades or the Dodecanese. This huge crescent of sand, lapped by the aquamarine Aegean, is the perfect place to relax and recharge as the afternoon sun turns to a golden evening.
Vouliagmeni is located just 30 to 45 minutes from Athens. Jekatarinka/Shutterstock
Evening
Famously, Greeks love to eat late—sometimes not until midnight. While you probably won’t wait that long, take a little time for a pre-dinner drink nearby. The Four Seasons Astir Palace is the most famous hotel on the Athenian Riviera. Long before its rebirth as a totally renovated Four Seasons, the hotel reached its heyday in the 1960s. Back then Greek magnates, world leaders, and Hollywood celebrities—everyone from Aristotle Onassis to Frank Sinatra—stayed here on their illustrious vacations.Head there for a drink. Avra is their destination bar, with huge, glassy windows and a big terrace overlooking the sea. Order one of their signature cocktails and a nice, easy dinner. The dinner bar’s snacks menu includes plenty of light, fresh options, including tuna tartare and cured seafood croquettes.
It’s been a big day. You might just be tempted to bed down here for the night. But in Athens, you always have options. Several nearby beach clubs rock, right on the water, until daybreak.
Or, you can head back into the center of town and partake in some of the legendary nightlife. Athens is truly a city that never, ever sleeps. Baba au Rum is a Latin-style club where the cocktails are creative and the party often spills into the street. And the Clumsies stays open to the wee hours, too—here, happy accidents are celebrated, and their all-time classic, the Mediterranean Gimlet, is essentially a Greek Salad in a glass. Both have been named on the list of The World’s 50 Best Bars.
End your day with dinner, drinks, and a view to remember. Songquan Deng/Shutterstock
But given the very high level of activity today, you’re probably looking for something a lot more chill. Pick a rooftop bar. Off Monastiraki Square, both A for Athens, and 360 Cocktail Bar, are good choices. Order a digestif and marvel at the view of the Acropolis, all lit up. Your busy day, now, finally, is coming full circle.
